Interior/Exterior Interior and exterior modifications for Clubman (R55), Cooper and Cooper S (R56), and Cabrio (R57) MINIs.

Interior/Exterior New R56 gauge faces?

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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 12:42 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by SMOG
That does address the glare on the gauges problem but not the dark tint that I desire. If I had JCW gauges then it would be applicable.
I'm a bit confused about your situation. The original topic was gauge faces, but you are NOT using a new gauge face and only trying to tint the lens?
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 12:47 PM
  #52  
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Originally I tried tinting the gauge face lenses but the glare on the tint made the gauges more difficult to read during daylight hours when the sun hit them. So now I am thinking about changing the gauge faces to blacken them and possibly tint the lens to darken the numbers for night driving. I would rather be able to darken the number back lighting but that does not seem possible.

I have considered changing to JCW speedo & tach but that might not be possible. Another thought is to change the JCW gauge faces with the standard R-56 faces.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 01:05 PM
  #53  
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I'd love some classic white-on-black Smiths looking ones for my R56, or like the Goodwood has.

Then: the nerve to tear into my speedometer assembly to install them
 
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Old Mar 14, 2012 | 07:51 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by SMOG
I would rather be able to darken the number back lighting but that does not seem possible.
There are a couple of possibilities.
  1. Take the gauge apart (pull the needle and remove the face plate) and apply a tint film to the back side of the plate.
  2. The back lighting is powered by a separate wire in the connector. Insert a resistor into the path (you'll have to cut the wire).
 
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Old Mar 15, 2012 | 01:15 PM
  #55  
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Try this http://www.heiler-tachodesign.de/Spe...R56-MPH-to-KMH

You can pick what you want it to read in.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 11:00 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by rkw
There are a couple of possibilities.
  1. Take the gauge apart (pull the needle and remove the face plate) and apply a tint film to the back side of the plate.
  2. The back lighting is powered by a separate wire in the connector. Insert a resistor into the path (you'll have to cut the wire).
I like both ideas! The tint behind the gauge face was something I thought about but since I have never removed a faceplate to see whats behind it I am not sure. Have you removed one?

The resistor is also a thought I had, but I know that there is a minimum voltage for the LED's to trigger to on. It sure would have been simple if MINI/BMW had put a rheostat in the circuit instead of a push button!

The tint behind the faceplate has my vote so far. Once I get everything apart I will know!
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 02:22 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by SMOG
The tint behind the gauge face was something I thought about but since I have never removed a faceplate to see whats behind it I am not sure.
In retrospect, I don't feel comfortable recommending to completely remove the faceplate, because removing the needle takes a truly scary amount of force, and then you have to deal with realigning it when you put it back. However, the faceplate is quite flexible and you can easily pull it away from the base and apply something behind it.

Originally Posted by SMOG
The resistor is also a thought I had, but I know that there is a minimum voltage for the LED's to trigger to on. It sure would have been simple if MINI/BMW had put a rheostat in the circuit instead of a push button!
LED's don't suddenly trigger on at some minimum voltage. They are actually analog circuits and you can dim them with a resistor. The button isn't connected to the illumination circuit. The instrument lighting is connected to the computer, which controls the brightness with pulse code modulation. The computer detects that the button is pressed and performs the appropriate action.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 02:27 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by rkw
In retrospect, I don't feel comfortable recommending to completely remove the faceplate, because removing the needle takes a truly scary amount of force, and then you have to deal with realigning it when you put it back. However, the faceplate is quite flexible and you can easily pull it away from the base and apply something behind it.

LED's don't suddenly trigger on at some minimum voltage. They are actually analog circuits and you can dim them with a resistor. The button isn't connected to the illumination circuit. The instrument lighting is connected to the computer, which controls the brightness with pulse code modulation. The computer detects that the button is pressed and performs the appropriate action.
So, what value resistor would you recommend putting in line with the circuit? And which circuit, the button circuit or the light circuit?
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 04:07 PM
  #59  
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I don't have a recommendation for a resistor value. If I were doing it myself, I'd have to use trial and error. I was thinking the illumination wire at the connector where the gauge connects to the wiring harness. As I said earlier, the button itself isn't even connected to the lighting circuit and there isn't anything you can do there.

Before you try that, I suggest that you open your tach and look at putting a sheet of tinted vinyl behind the gauge plate. The plate is flexible and you'll have plenty of room to work with, even without pulling the needle. The speedo is the same situation but you can quickly examine the tach first and decide whether you want to take this approach.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2012 | 06:23 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by rkw
I don't have a recommendation for a resistor value. If I were doing it myself, I'd have to use trial and error. I was thinking the illumination wire at the connector where the gauge connects to the wiring harness. As I said earlier, the button itself isn't even connected to the lighting circuit and there isn't anything you can do there.

Before you try that, I suggest that you open your tach and look at putting a sheet of tinted vinyl behind the gauge plate. The plate is flexible and you'll have plenty of room to work with, even without pulling the needle. The speedo is the same situation but you can quickly examine the tach first and decide whether you want to take this approach.
I really like the idea of tinting the backside of the gauge faces. I'll give it a try, thanks!
 
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 11:33 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by rkw
This may help: http://www.fes-auto.com/productsinvisilens.php. Disclaimer: I created the InvisiLens product, which is sold through FES Auto (a NAM vendor).



Note: the FES website is out of date and says the speedo lens is only available with the 2007-2010 silver trim. The 2011+ black trim is now also available.
I have a question about the "Invisi-Lens" product; does it eliminate the blacked out section/areas created when the driver is wearing polarized sunglasses?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 02:56 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by SMOG
I have a question about the "Invisi-Lens" product; does it eliminate the blacked out section/areas created when the driver is wearing polarized sunglasses?
InvisiLens doesn't affect polarization. If you have an issue with polarized sunglasses blacking out LCD displays, it's because the polarization angle in your sunglasses happens to be perpendicular to the polarization angle in the LCD. Different sunglasses don't all use exactly the same polarization angle. If it's an issue, you might try a different pair of sunglasses.

InvisiLens works by using an anti-reflective coating similar to the type used in eyeglasses and camera lenses.

If you could eliminate lens reflections 100%, you'd have a completely clear view of the gauge and the effect would be like the lens wasn't there. InvisiLens takes it most of the way, eliminating about 98% of light reflection.
 

Last edited by rkw; Mar 25, 2012 at 03:04 PM.
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 03:03 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by rkw
InvisiLens doesn't affect polarization. If you have an issue with polarized sunglasses blacking out LCD displays, it's because the polarization angle in your sunglasses happens to be perpendicular to the polarization angle in the LCD. Different sunglasses don't all use exactly the same polarization angle. If it's an issue, you might try a different pair of sunglasses.
Rats, I was hoping that it might make polarization a none issue. Changing a very complex prescription pair of sunglasses is not an option; I will just tilt my head...
 
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Old Mar 25, 2012 | 03:10 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by <MINI>
Anyone know if someone is making replacement gauge faces for the R56 yet?

I love the black ones from Outmotoring, but they don't have 'em for the new models.

Check out these. http://www.heiler-tachodesign.de/Spe...R55-MPH-to-KMH

They say that they do not have the gauge face for the R-56 "S" 2011+ but these R-55 gauge faces show the same increments and top speed as my R-56 2011 MCS.

I ordered a set to see how they will work. BTW, I ordered the carbon fiber, black w/metallic silver numbers and will post photos once I get them and install them.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2012 | 09:33 AM
  #65  
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Gauge Faces

Steer well clear of these people! The grief and hassle they caused is beyond belief!!!!

Even though they say they accept PayPal it appears that they do not and PayPal says they are NOT registered with them.
 
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