How To R53 Drivetrain :: Airbox Modification How-To
#51
>>Yeah, I am hoping someone will come up with a ram air intake. A scoop will probably force more air at higher speeds. I think if it`s only a scoop without any PVC pipes then water should not be a problem.
Agreed, my only thought is that the air flow over most cars "jumps" over the air vent/pollen filter grills at the base of the windshield. If you've ever seen a wind tunnel test of a car the area right at the bottom of the windshield where the pollen filters are doens't seem to get much air. I don't know how much more air a scoop would actually provide as I don't think it would be directly in the stream of air passing over the car.
Anyone have a wind tunnel or a video of a MINI in a wind tunnel?
Paul
Agreed, my only thought is that the air flow over most cars "jumps" over the air vent/pollen filter grills at the base of the windshield. If you've ever seen a wind tunnel test of a car the area right at the bottom of the windshield where the pollen filters are doens't seem to get much air. I don't know how much more air a scoop would actually provide as I don't think it would be directly in the stream of air passing over the car.
Anyone have a wind tunnel or a video of a MINI in a wind tunnel?
Paul
#52
Randy, we talked about this (some other thread) but really never finished. This pertains to "how to get more air to the intake box." What about something like this:
Triangular Intake hole
-or-
Hood scoop
This would mean cutting a hole in the hood which doesn't make anyone happy.
Triangular Intake hole
-or-
Hood scoop
This would mean cutting a hole in the hood which doesn't make anyone happy.
#53
A NACA duct right over the intake would always work, but as you said, some folks might not be happy with it - and it would probably not be looked well upon by any sanctioning bodies for racing.
Just doing the "string" test (I don't have a wind tunnel) it appears that there is still positive airflow at the inlet - it is at the least not stalled flow.
I think a couple inches of extra scoop would make a difference.
I'm consulting on the side now with an aerospace firm, so I may be able to simulate the airflow on a program and check it out - I'll let you know.
Randy
Just doing the "string" test (I don't have a wind tunnel) it appears that there is still positive airflow at the inlet - it is at the least not stalled flow.
I think a couple inches of extra scoop would make a difference.
I'm consulting on the side now with an aerospace firm, so I may be able to simulate the airflow on a program and check it out - I'll let you know.
Randy
#54
>>A NACA duct right over the intake would always work, but as you said, some folks might not be happy with it - and it would probably not be looked well upon by any sanctioning bodies for racing.
>>
>>Just doing the "string" test (I don't have a wind tunnel) it appears that there is still positive airflow at the inlet - it is at the least not stalled flow.
>>
>>I think a couple inches of extra scoop would make a difference.
>>
>>I'm consulting on the side now with an aerospace firm, so I may be able to simulate the airflow on a program and check it out - I'll let you know.
Great, now we're talking! Nothing like CFD to answer your air flow questions. :smile: Granted isn't this going to have to comprise of some pretty significant computer models of the MINI done in CATIA or something similar in order to be acurate?
Paul
>>
>>Just doing the "string" test (I don't have a wind tunnel) it appears that there is still positive airflow at the inlet - it is at the least not stalled flow.
>>
>>I think a couple inches of extra scoop would make a difference.
>>
>>I'm consulting on the side now with an aerospace firm, so I may be able to simulate the airflow on a program and check it out - I'll let you know.
Great, now we're talking! Nothing like CFD to answer your air flow questions. :smile: Granted isn't this going to have to comprise of some pretty significant computer models of the MINI done in CATIA or something similar in order to be acurate?
Paul
#55
#60
#62
>>Paul,
>>
>>With the rogue intake, the heat sheild won't effectively stop warm air from entering the intake. This is why the Alta intake uses a different style of heat sheild.
ya, I went and looked at the car today (still on summers so it's all I can do) and noticed that. I guess the holes are close enough.
Paul
>>
>>With the rogue intake, the heat sheild won't effectively stop warm air from entering the intake. This is why the Alta intake uses a different style of heat sheild.
ya, I went and looked at the car today (still on summers so it's all I can do) and noticed that. I guess the holes are close enough.
Paul
#63
Paul,
I think the holes are enough. The surface area for the openings of the holes is greater than the surface area for the intake tube. So I'm pretty sure that the holes will not limit the flow. Also with the recent measurements of pressure in this area, the holes would work just fine for supplying air to the intake. If you've only done the gromet so far, you're in for a treat once you do the holes.
I made 8 x 1 3/4" holes. 6 on the main part of the panel and 1 on either side where the panel bends. There is significantly more SC whine, but thats a good thing. The engine also feels less choked off.
#64
#65
I have just completed this airbox mod and have the following comments:
1. Don't do the ultrafast mod (indicated on another thread). ANY kind of drill bit (like the ones in the center of a hole saw) will shoot through and create the danger of cutting a brake line behind the partition.
2. The battery terminal leads want to hang up on the cable guides on the side of the bottom tray while tryign to remove it.
3. When you get to the point where you put the lower tray back in, place the round rubber mounting bushings in the airbox tray slots (and not over the mounting pins). When you get to this point, you will know what that means.
4. You MUST use a hole saw for this. Don't try forstner bits or drill bits. They GRAB the plastic and make it impossible to control.
I cut out most of the material in the center of the partition, some because I wanted to and some because I screwed up one of the holes.
The change in seat-of-pants feel AND in sound is only at WOT. But it's significant, considering the type of mod it is. You can definitely HEAR the SC whine, and feel a little smoother low end.
Daily driving and non-racing type acceleration, you can't hear anything, so don't worry about any added noise in the cabin - it's only at WOT.
This took me about 90 minutes to complete, but I am an underhood novice and neat freak to boot (not a good combination for quick mods!)...
1. Don't do the ultrafast mod (indicated on another thread). ANY kind of drill bit (like the ones in the center of a hole saw) will shoot through and create the danger of cutting a brake line behind the partition.
2. The battery terminal leads want to hang up on the cable guides on the side of the bottom tray while tryign to remove it.
3. When you get to the point where you put the lower tray back in, place the round rubber mounting bushings in the airbox tray slots (and not over the mounting pins). When you get to this point, you will know what that means.
4. You MUST use a hole saw for this. Don't try forstner bits or drill bits. They GRAB the plastic and make it impossible to control.
I cut out most of the material in the center of the partition, some because I wanted to and some because I screwed up one of the holes.
The change in seat-of-pants feel AND in sound is only at WOT. But it's significant, considering the type of mod it is. You can definitely HEAR the SC whine, and feel a little smoother low end.
Daily driving and non-racing type acceleration, you can't hear anything, so don't worry about any added noise in the cabin - it's only at WOT.
This took me about 90 minutes to complete, but I am an underhood novice and neat freak to boot (not a good combination for quick mods!)...
#66
#67
#68
#70
Randy,
I haven't done the full intake yet, I only have a uni-filter drop in. If you drilled out the partition and placed some holes in the lower portion of the airbox (dirty side) would this result in any airflow improvements of just provide an outlet for the snorkel intake?
Thanks,
Brandan
I haven't done the full intake yet, I only have a uni-filter drop in. If you drilled out the partition and placed some holes in the lower portion of the airbox (dirty side) would this result in any airflow improvements of just provide an outlet for the snorkel intake?
Thanks,
Brandan
#71
#72
>>Randy, I have a question. In your Alta Intake install it shows that at the end you take this entire piece out and don't put it back in. I plan on purchasing the Alta as soon as my Mini gets here and was wondering if this modification is possible with the Alta.
The Atla intake replaces that entire piece that Randy shows being drilled out, so the whole area is open to the windshield cowl vent and therefore no drilling is necessary (or even possible).
The Atla intake replaces that entire piece that Randy shows being drilled out, so the whole area is open to the windshield cowl vent and therefore no drilling is necessary (or even possible).
#73
Randy, I have a question. In your Alta Intake install it shows that at the end you take this entire piece out and don't put it back in. I plan on purchasing the Alta as soon as my Mini gets here and was wondering if this modification is possible with the Alta.
The Atla intake replaces that entire piece that Randy shows being drilled out, so the whole area is open to the windshield cowl vent and therefore no drilling is necessary (or even possible).
The Atla intake replaces that entire piece that Randy shows being drilled out, so the whole area is open to the windshield cowl vent and therefore no drilling is necessary (or even possible).