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TheCondor. You can bypass the switch but it is way safer to use it as most of these are for "off road use only" and you don't want to waste a ticket on something so silly - get them for speeding!
Those lights look very cool BTW.
G
TheCondor. You can bypass the switch but it is way safer to use it as most of these are for "off road use only" and you don't want to waste a ticket on something so silly - get them for speeding!
Those lights look very cool BTW.
G
You arte right Gregory about the bonus ticket, anyway i just found the italian official bmw manuale and they instruct to installa WITH the button in USA and connetted in parallel to the high beam in EU. What about the electrical connection without the box? Any advice from your experience? Thanks in advance!
Which box are you referring to? Are you meaning the box for the LED lights?
Yeah, sure the led lights ade in a canbus, but in a way or another the +12v must arrive to the bulbs indipendently and can be intercepted and joint with the aux lamps. They ade crazy: 150 euro for the addizional box!!!
Has anyone installed these OEM lights, but changed the trigger wire from the high beam, to something else? Like everyone else in the past has wanted to use these alone or with parking / headlights function. Honestly, any other option, other than always turning on only with the high beams. This should be a simple task, Just need to find the right wire.
Question for you guys that have done this install, in the directions for two of the connections, it gives two different spots each wire can be connected to, each location is on a different plug, is it just saying it can be hooked to eaither one? I am actually going through and soldering the connections due to the lights not working. The switch is getting power but will not turn on. The back lighting is coming on but the indication power is going to the lights won't come on, now this is all with the hi beams on. This install is on a car with HID lights and I am using the control module, and actually these wires in question are for that connection. Never mind I figured it out
Question for you guys that have done this install, in the directions for two of the connections, it gives two different spots each wire can be connected to, each location is on a different plug, is it just saying it can be hooked to eaither one? I am actually going through and soldering the connections due to the lights not working. The switch is getting power but will not turn on. The back lighting is coming on but the indication power is going to the lights won't come on, now this is all with the hi beams on. This install is on a car with HID lights and I am using the control module, and actually these wires in question are for that connection. Never mind I figured it out
I only remember one spot to hook up the wires. I've done 3 of these including 2 F56's. Are you using the wiring diagram that I posted. There are notes that explain the stock instructions are (were) wrong. That's likely why your lights are not working.
Greg
I actually used the dealer instructions, and they had the correct wiring, I had one of the wires swapped around. They are working now but still want to figure out how to get them to work with low beams. That is my next task and but a set of the led lights. The wife's min has HID's and the standard lights just don't look right when they are lit up
They work on just the low beams stock, you would have to program(NCS expert) or mod them to work with the low beams. Might be super bright with the LED and low beams, might also need pointing down a bit as they might be too bright for oncoming traffic as it's not a focused light.
They work on just the low beams stock, you would have to program(NCS expert) or mod them to work with the low beams. Might be super bright with the LED and low beams, might also need pointing down a bit as they might be too bright for oncoming traffic as it's not a focused light.
All the cars I looked at that where at the dealer the Ralley lights only worked on HI beam also. That's the issue I don't have the wiring diagram so I could change the on signal. And do you know if led light bulbs can be used in the standard lights?
I used a bit extender and 1/4" bit. I pushed a nail through first to make sure I did not hit the harness on the inside. If you go through on the top part this won't be a problem...but never hurts to check as drilling into that umbilical could be nasty!
Good luck!
Ed, Check the connection #'s. They are very confusing. It is easy to connect to the incorrect module or the wrong pin. Almost certainly that is why they are not working. Also check that those stupid connectors have penetrated the wire. They only worked 70% of the time for me and I ended up soldering some connections. You really need a multi-meter but soldering is 100% sure.
Ed, Check the connection #'s. They are very confusing. It is easy to connect to the incorrect module or the wrong pin. Almost certainly that is why they are not working. Also check that those stupid connectors have penetrated the wire. They only worked 70% of the time for me and I ended up soldering some connections. You really need a multi-meter but soldering is 100% sure.
Thank you very much, I am going to take a close look at the module connection right after checking the voltage at the lights connectors.
Hi @ all, Also mine does't works.
I'm using the Middle interfacce because i have led lights, but the relay doesn't "click" so i used a multimeter for check the output to and film the interface and i attach the results. The green and blu wire should go to the canbus wire in bdc, the brown and red should provide the power for the interface itself. The white, as shown in the instructions Is the only one that goes to the relay.
The red-brown wiring should be ok, but the colors on bdc connectors pin arte different, but the power is constant.
The green-blu I think are for canbus hibeam signal, the color in the bdc are the same.
When i activate hibeam no power is coming out from pin 6 foto the interface, while it should provide a voltage for switch on the relay...
Answering myself, i found this guide in francaise (a very long search online...) but should be fine for all UE auto. As you can see there's a difference pinpoint on the BDC to use for the led middle interfaces. There's also a more simple hole to use for pass through the firewall but aniway I already did an hole in the larger one and glued again... Tomorrow i'll try to change the pinpoint and see, i hope not blowed up my interface already
I'll let you know, thanks again Gregory!
Answering myself, i found this guide in francaise (a very long search online...) but should be fine for all UE auto. As you can see there's a difference pinpoint on the BDC to use for the led middle interfaces. There's also a more simple hole to use for pass through the firewall but aniway I already did an hole in the larger one and glued again... Tomorrow i'll try to change the pinpoint and see, i hope not blowed up my interface already
I'll let you know, thanks again Gregory!
OMG let me know how it goes! Cause i did the same, the previous instructions did mention replacing the 15amp fuse for the 3amp I was wondering what was the 3amp fuse for!
Help, i need somebody, heeeelllp... na-na-na-nà-nà-naaaa
I sia some progress but still doesn't works:
removed the relay, 24volts from fuse box and ground so ground is correct...
tested again the interfaces for led headlight after moved one pin as francais instruction, now it's working as expected:
with high beam ON in pin 6 i've got around 24v and 0 when OFF, this pin goes to the relay and should trigger it, anyway the relay does't do the 'click'
i tought it was broken, but tested in house on the desk with 12v and it 'click' as should so it's not broken. My doubt is that the relay is 12v and the interface send too much voltage to the trigger. Someone with the original retrofit cable can be so kind to read the voltage of the original relay and ampere of the fuse??? Thanks a lot in advance!
I post my solution, so maybe in the future someone need this he will can find here:
My items:
LED aux light + canbus middle interface for who have LED light + not original harness kit (cable).
My problem is that the canbus interfaces does not provide sufficient AMP for trgger the relay (standard 12v auto relay, 4 pin, not the original BMW-MINI).
I put a very simple (2€) homebrew circuit with a flywheel diod and a BC337 transistor behind the RELAY, after the canbus interface. In this way the relay is triggered with a minimum amount of power from the canbus interface.
This will be the solution for who have LED light and canbus interface + NON MINI HARNESS KIT (AND NON MINI AUX SPOTLIGHTS...).
Just spent my entire weekend trying to wire up my lights. I mounted the lights last weekend. After 20 hours of work, videoing the process, and troubleshooting i still have no lights. I have checked continuity to all my solder joints to their respective pins, double checked that i am indeed spliced to the correct wire and verified with the Mini wiring schematics. I have come to the conclusion that something is incorrect in the instructions for the F60. I have a 2019 F60 with LED lightis & LED fogs. I am using the latest instructions provided by MiniMania https://www.minimania.com/pdfile/OE_Driving_Lights.pdf and making sure i follow the additional instructions for the F60 as well as special instructions for cars with SA 5A2 or SA 5A4 lights.
I can only assume something changed in the 2019s that is not represented in the instructions i am using. So frustrating having to put everything back together since i need the car tomorrow. Anyone know of an addendum or update to the install instructions dated 07/2017?
Hi, thanks for this post, I’m going to have a go myself. Page 11 is baffling to me at the moment. I have a UK spec F56 built September 2014, any assistance would be great, also you refer to “pulling the bumper” what do you mean by this? Many thanks Stevie
04-20-2016, 01:32 PM
