My 2007 MCS was leaving a present of oil on the driveway....I seen it was leaking around the valve cover gasket, so I called the mechanic and he confirmed my suspicions. Oil cover GASKET was replaced. That was 3 weeks ago, and now there is a trace of oil around the valve cover again. Should I re-torque the valve cover? I can see a trace of some gasket sealer on the valve cover, so I didn't know if re-torqueing the valve cover would work. Thanks!

 

Finally got around to do my valve cover Red thanks Porthos for giving me some tips

 

Going to be replacing my valve cover gasket this weekend. Anyone know the torque spec for the bolts?

I didn't see a how-to post on this, unless I missed it?

 

Hand-tight, or [FONT=Verdana][SIZE=2][SIZE=2]12 Nm (9 ft-lb)[/SIZE][/SIZE][/FONT].

a

 

The diaphragm can't be changed out except for a new valve cover. Cost is 299.00. There is an intricate maze for the smog compliance built into the valve cover, what a croke from Mini, but be as it may, it has to be done, other wise when you replace just the gasket you will eventually get enough blow by (in the maze) to clog the diaphragm, if this happens you end up with a blown gasket again. 35.00 for the gasket. Mini wants 700 for the complete job, I got it done for the above price. Some shops will do it for 500. complete. It's a simple job 2 hours. I had my son do it three years ago, he had it done in 20 minutes.

 

There is an updated cover that seems to have newer design internals verse the older ones. The part has been superseded a few time. Here are all the parts and what it looks like for the N14 Cooper S and JCW engines.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ment-help.html


** Update we have metal versions in multiple also N12-N14-N16-N18 engines. **

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-bremmen-...engine-covers/






Thanks

 

Let me add some value. The FELPRO part # is VS 50761R. Its a PERFECT fit. I got mine for super cheap on ROCKAUTO. $18 delivered wholesaler discount.

Its an easy low stress job. Just wait until the engine is cool.

Note that two of the valve cover bolts (driver's side) are longer than the others.

You need:

- 10mm and 8 mm sockets

- Torque wrench

- Cloth to clean off old gasket material from the mating surface on head.

- needle nose pliers to pull the old gasket out of the valve cover.




Here is great video showing how easy it is to remove the valve cover.

https://video.search.yahoo.com/searc...8&action=click

Here are some crappy instructions for the N14. Sorry they dont read so easily. I have no control over that. Pay attention to the torquing sequence for the N14.

YOU DO NOT NEED TO RELEASE THE OXYGEN SENSOR FROM CYLINDER HEAD (DOWNPIPE in our case). Ignore that BS.




For the large PCV tube coming in from the driver's side into the valve cover, there is a large plastic clip that goes comes down on top and around the tube which holds it in place. The clip slides into a slot on the valve cover. You need to push the tabs inwards on the bottom of the clip and lift it out. Then the tube pulls out easily.












I doubled up with some Permatex Ultra Rubber Gasket Sealant and Dressing (1 oz) especially at the corners of the valve cover, $6, in lieu of Drei Bond 1209 which is $19 plus shipping.

 

Just replaced valve cover with updated one. 65K miles. Had the hissing sound and slight oil seepage. Then got CEL. I looked the old one over as well as I could. Couldn't identify a crack or a warp issue? But, it works so far after a few drives. I guess I would have to study them both a lot more to see exactly what the improvement is? I would guess someone needs to try just a gasket replacement and let us all know after 5000 miles if all is good.



I had leaks at front upper right of cover, and hissing at left rear of cover, looking at engine in car. So in pictures, it would be upper right(1st photo is old cover) at back of timing chain area for hissing.

 

The factory manual calls for use of DREI BOND which is like a liquid gasket, at "edges and joints" whatever the **** that means. http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/07589062376/ES2206973/

The corners look tough to seal so I added more Permatex Ultra there. It still boggles my mind that BMW would integrate the PCV system into the goddamn valve cover. This has to be about the stupidest design I've ever encountered. Instead of a $15 PCV valve like every other car they make you pay $330 for a new valve cover and on top of it they don't know how to seal the damn thing.

 

I'm not sure, but I think post #4 here may give you some good insight about the valve cover update.

 

Mine was replaced with part # 11 - 12-7-585-907 at 101k miles in Nov 2012, which was three parts number iterations back.

I wonder if the new part #s are a change in the plastic formula or redesign of the PCV system or who knows what.

Previous part #s were: 11127561714 11127572854 11127585907

Latest is: 11127646555

 

Well, I didn't use any additional liquid type gasket. Did use a light lithium grease on all rubber areas. I will have to keep an eye on it and see if all is well.

To Pelican: I will look at my old cover again, but possibly with the "added" valve you install, which may be a pressure relief??, the new cover and PCV vents better, and now you don't have similar pressure build up which forces oil out at gasket points that are less "tight"?

I am guessing the only time my valve cover was ever off was for timing chain guide recall, about 25Kmi ago.

 

Lithium grease? hmm..I wouldn't have chosen that per say. You need something sticky that adds to the seal. I think lithium can withstand 200+ F.

What "added valve" are you referring to?

 

Last time I saw another timing chain done with the valve cover at the dealership they were using the red spray high tack on the engine side before the valve cover was replaced with gasket. Don't know if they are doing this all the time. Think it was permatex high tack red spray , did not see the bottle.


Also the newest valve cover is an updated design which is shared with Peugeot / Citroen .

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...goes-here.html

 

I would think you both have a good idea for going with something with hi tack on the Cyl head, I just didn't have it handy.

Here is a picture of the small valve that comes with new cover. You remove a red plug and install this. Just pushes in and clips. Rear of cover near center, top.

 

Yep +1 Most people ask what the red pull tab is on the back.







I keep thinking of the Gen 1 factory tow hook installed MINI pull to inflate back in 2005. lol

 

That's new? Mine has that same doohickey. I guess my invoice didn't show the newest part #, just the original part #.

 

It was kinda funny, they send you the little valve in a bag, and the big red pull is installed, you expect a parachute to pop out.

So, I went and got the sheet which came with part, which I would not call "instructions".

The Valve is called "Cylinder Head Cover Excess Pressure Relief Valve N12/N14" and in a weird way, that it is "only US".

And of course, it appears in the picture that the N14 cover is shown with N12 identification.

Why they don't just put the plug in, I have no idea?

 

Its shared with Peugeot / Citroen and i bet they have something else that plugs into there. So when they make them , the US MINI get that little bag.

 

Mini is crazy.

They add all these little details but it all leaks and fails in 30k miles.

 

So what is #2 ? and is there a trick to getting it off and back on the new cover?<br/>Thanks!

 

Read my post above.

 

Sorry I don't see where #2 from that diagram is mentioned. I don't mean the PCV pipe to the turbo.

 

Did you sand down the cover before hand? Any tips to make sure the paint sticks

 

Yes. Like lex said and make sure the clip is off before you pull it out to re seat it. I have seen people pull those and break that little clip.