I have a 2005 with 170k miles on the original SC so you might be in better shape than you think (15% reduction pulley installed at 110k miles).

mini_wolf, Thanks for the write-up!

 

I have a 2004 Cooper S .. gonna change the sc ,, was wondering if someone would list the gaskets orings etc I'll need to order and have on hand.. gonna order the proper tools so thought I'd get everything required at the same time.

 

I just changed my SC, water pump, thermostat, hoses and expansion tank his week on my 03 MCS. I do not have the part numbers for the gaskets/o-rings used, but if you call Way of Way Motor Works he wll hook you up. I know he recommends the green gasket on the SC outlet be replaced as well as the black gasket on the SC inlet. He sent me an extra o-ring to replace on the water pump inlet. An o-ring came with the waterpump. I used no special tools. Various metric sockets and my torque wrench. Good luck

 

thank you for the reply. was wondering did you totally unhook the ac rad or did you just lay it off to the side as in this thread?

 

I laid it to the side. There was more than enough room to do the work with it thart way. The only problem I had was the heat here in Virginia. It was 98-102 with high humidity. I got dehydrated .

 

so it didn't damage the lines connected to it.. that's what I was concerned about.

 

No. I kept it kind of level with a bucket and I did not overstress the lines.

 

ok great ! thanks for the tip..

 

BUGETER,, once you changed everything out is there any timing etc you need to,do or is it automatic once the belt is back in place?

 

Nothing like that, just put it back together, carefully make sure the coolant is full & bled properly, put the belt back on and start it up to check for problems.

 

did you just leave it jacked up when you started it to check?

also my supercharger is on the way out that's why I have mine apart.. do you think I should Change the thermostat and water pump too while i have it apart or would that matter?

 

Sorry for the late reply. I did not leave mine on jack stands. Once I got everything back together and the wheels back on, I lowered it and cranked it up to check for vacuum/boost leaks. Since you are already have everything apart, you might as well change out all the parts that are right there, easy to get to. I changed the thermostat, hoses and water pump.

 

I did not change my thermostat and I drove all through the winter(September '11 when I figured out the SC was going till March) with the SC being bad and the car over heating at idle . I didnt replace the thermo since I pretty much forgot lol. I had the car all back together and was down right sick of working on it. Do if it if the car is apart. GET THE HOUSING AS WELL, the factory ones tend to leak after you replace them.

 

Just wanted to say thanks to anyone that answered questions about changing the supercharger out.. I have no mechanical experience and everything is working great.. Its time consuming but is relatively easy if you have all the right tools. The best advice I can give to anyone wanting to tackle this project is, Don't rush! Bag and label everything.. And take pictures.. And the Bentley manual is well worth the money... AutoXCooper rebuilt my supercharger and I'm very happy.

Thanks again everyone.

Ryan

 

Hey..
Just finished replacing the stock S/C with an 8000 mill. unit with a 17% smaller pulley.
Did replaced all the old seals and gaskets with new ones and new water pump.
I keep hearing some noise (nothing too loud).
At first (jacked up) it did not want to go past 4000, maybe 3800 RPM's.
Then as it got into operational temperature (no coolant or oil leaks) It does not want to go above 2000 RPM"s and if you want to give it more gas (like to the floor) all it does is drop back to like 1000 RPM's (no misfire or anything like trying to die on me) BUT IT WILL NOT BOOST LIKE IT SHOULD.
Question..?
WERE IS ALL THAT BOOST GOING TO ?? IS MY BYPASS VALVE STAYING OPEN, OR DOES IT NEED CALIBRATION ??

Rafy Medina

 

So do you have a check engine light on too? Sounds like you shiny have all of your vacuum lines in place. There is one on the butterfly throttle (name?) that I'd not hooked up will make it run like crap.

 

Just thought of it "bypass valave" vacuum line. Its easy to miss when putting back together. I missed it second time around.

 

Hey, Webhead69..
Thanks for your quick reply on my case.
No, no MIL on, nor EML, nor CEL. Not even DSC.
There were no unecesary vacuum hoses disconected.
Only coolant and/or radiator hoses.
Everything was neatly worked on. Even the alternator was just removed from the charger itself but conected and battery also conected.
Actually the whole engine bay is in great, clean, not messy condition, so it's cool to work with this Mini.
The only original problem was that the S/C lost the oil from the pulley side and also from the W/pump compartment and there was oil leaking out and going in to the intake parts and an unusual loud noise coming directly from the S/C, so we got a good deal from this new-used one (only 8000 mill. apx) for only $600.00 bucks.

 

Hey..
Forgot to tell you.
When the car came to us it did not run past 30 to 45 mill. top.
NO BOOST WAS GENERATED FROM THE S/C.

Rafy

 

Hey.
Tomorow I will go to my muffler shop to have the CAT. removed.
Reason is that I don't feel there is any pressure coming out from my tail pipes.
So I'll keep you guys posted.
Thanks.

Rafy

 

 

Hey there ACallahan..
Thanks for the Popcorn Face..
Like I told you guys today I had to go to my muffler shop, but before that the car would start but will not go past 1000 rpm so actually didn't make it.
So I jack it up once more and got my drill and drilled 4 holes in the CAT (about an inch apart) , got my electric grinder and opened a small window of about 1 1/2 inch and yesss, there it was, the thing was all broken down all the way up to the center of the CAT.
So I took my time and broke it down to smaller pieces to empty it out (but only up to the middle) and guess what, THIS REALY BIG CHUNK OF SOMETHING CLOGING THE REST OF THE CAT. It was like cement.
So I started the engine and it ran smooth (making some noise, but nothing too luod).
It went up to 1, 2, 3000 rpm's very easy. Then I steped on the gas and it hit 7500 RPM's like nothing.
Then I finally made it to the muffler shop just to have the thing removed, and guess what THE LITTLE THING KICKS YOU BACK IN 2nd AND 3rd pretty hard now..
So I'm just waiting for my MIL or CEL to come on anytime soon now. But it's ok, I could live with that..
!!! SEE YAHHH !!!

 

Thank you for this! Exactly what I need :-)

 

My SC started making noise a few days ago. Other than the SC obviously, what else should will I need to buy?(O-rings? Clamps? other stuff I should do while I'm there?)

 

i did the clutch for a few more hours, o ring on the crank sensor, new pan gasket, new belt, and water pump @ 55k and few hundred more it's all done then. The dual mass boat anchor was falling apart about the same time so made sense to do it all then.