Summary
I am going to create fibreglass subwoofer enclosure for 10 inch Alpine Type X subwoofer.
The method is based on using the curves from the trunk to mold the bottom end of the box, so the box seats correctly in the trunk.


Materials
» 3 liters P40
» 1 liters Resin
» 150 milliliters Hardener
» 6 sqare meters of fiber mats
» 50 meters of 36mm paint duck tape
» 2 sqare meters of 12mm MDF sheets
» 2 sqare meters of strechable polyester material or fleech
» 2 square meters of black strechable car carpet


Tools
» 3x brushes
» 2x cans or buckets
» 3x sticks ( to stir with )
» 1x (Key hole) Saw
» 1x Drill with 15mm driller
» 1x Scissors
» 1x measuring tape



Notice
* Always use mask when working with resin and fiber glass.
* Always use gloves when working with resin and fiber glass.
* Never do this inside your house, unless you have relly good air condition.


Step 1: Preperation
You should think alot how you want this, which side in the trunk, one or two subs, in what direction subs should point, height of the box and volume.
Here I am, planing how mine should look like with Adobe Photoshop CS3.





Step 2: Make mount for sub
I putted the MDF sheet on the table, put an nail in the middle.
I got my self an data sheet over Alpine type X 10" subwoofer.
Then I putted some wire from the nail to pen and started to turn it in circle.




Step 3: Prepare your materials
I actually bought 2x fibreglass kits, but that was a mistake, It is much more cheaper to buy it seperatly.




Step 4: Start duck taping the bottom
I started to duck tape the bottom a lot and thick, more likly that the box will fit without trouble.







Step 5: Fiberglassing
Next you put resin over the ducktape and put one sheet of fibre mat over.
Then you should wipe gently over till the mat is wet of resin.






Step 6: Wait for it to dry
Now you have to wait untill the bottom dries.
Get yourself a cup of coffee or something



Step 7: Take out the mold
Well, now it should be rock hard, so it is time to remove the mold out of the trunk.
This can be much trouble, because the ducktape is a bit sticky.
What I did, was that I just lifted the seat back, put my hand behind and gently loose it apart.
Just watch out not to break the fiber mold.




Step 8: Cutting
Repeat step 5 untill you are satisfied with the thickness of your mold.



Step 9: Cutting
Now you want a smooth surface, you will need to cut the edge in that shape you want it, it has to be smaller than your subwoofer mount because of streching the carpet.
I just used my swicherland pocket knife.




Step 10: Subwoofer mount - sticks mounting
I use thick flexible glue to hold the sticks that holds the mounting circle.
It holds very well but has flexibility to move it around a bit.





Step 11: Strech the polyester/fleech over
Now strech your material over and glue it on the back or just kneet it.
I used electric straps.




Step 12: Fiberglassing
Now its time to brush it with resin all over. It is ok if it get hard to fast.
Then you put fibre mats over and resin some more like you did the other time.






Step 13: Let try
Again, now we should wait for it to dry all over again.
Go drive your mini around



Step 14: Open your P40 can and start fiberglassing
Cut the polyester material on the back all the way you can.
Now, you have to glue the top part with the bottom part.
Go inside your box and put some P40 in the corners and on the edges.
Then you should do this on the outside also, and everywhere you want strenght.




Step 15: Get your self some sand paper (200 grit or something)
And start to take sharp edges off and prepare carpet install.



Step 16: Install carpet
I got my carpet, it was a bit to dark but matched completly the MINI carpet, it had to have some strech characteristics.
I got my self a glue gun and alot of glue sticks. (40-50pcs :D )







Step 17: Test the box
Check if the box is good inside




Thats it folks.

 

Very nice, congratluations!

 

what was your source for the carpet?

 

Just a few notes that will make this process easier...

WARNING: BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE RESIN. ANY DRIPS WILL HARDEN AND NOT COME OFF WITHOUT HEARTACHE AND PROBABLE DAMAGE TO THE SURFACE.

Step 4.5
Line the taped section (section to be fiberglassed) with aluminum foil. Use tape for the overlapping aluminum foil so no resin can seep through to the tape underneath. This will protect your trunk and make for easy removal of the box later.

Step 6.5
You can use fiberglass mat or fiberglass cloth. The cloth is much thinner and will require several layers to make a solid foundation. A single layer of fiberglass cloth will result in a flexible box...not good for fitting it back in the trunk after you take it out. Just make sure the box is firm before removing it.

Step 9
I would recommend a dremel with a cutting tool.

Step 11
Fleece works excellent for this step. Any pattern from wal-mart will work and only cost you a couple bucks.

3M Spray Adhesive is your best friend for this type of project. Spray the wooden ring and the edges of the back of your box/base. Spray the fabric as well and then stretch over with hopefully no wrinkles. Having a friend help you is a major plus.

Step 15
I would recommend a sanding block so the hardened fiberglass does not rip through and stab you in the hand.

Step 16
Again, 3M Spray Adhesive. It's expensive, ~$10 a can, but you should be able to do everything with one can and still have some left over. The stuff is amazing.


Good write-up starionturbo. Very thorough.

 

Any good source for the fiber glass fibre sheets? Or fibre-glassing products in general?
Thanks