It's the N18 engines on the non-JCW '11s that appear to have just a bit of a different configuration.

 

Thanks for the write up!!!

I apologize if these have already been answered, but I have a few questions for my first self oil change on my 2009 JCW. I've never actually had to change the oil myself on either of my MINIs, so this weekend will be a first.

Can I find a filter anywhere else but the dealer?

I'm trying to figure out what kind of oil is best for my car (I know this is debatable). I live in New York, the weather is warming up a little bit (it's mid 40s now) and the oil will last me through the hot summer. Right now I'm thinking Castrol Syntec 5W-30 would be best, but I'm really not positive. Would it be better to go with a 0W-30 or 5W-40, or something else??

Thanks in advance!

 

What does your manual say?
Also, be sure you get something that meets BMW LL-01 rating.

 

It lists 4 different kinds, and it doesn't say anything about the filter.

 

There are mutiple sources for filters.
Outmotoring
MINIMania

It's a little confusing, I know. When I was looking for answers to these questions this is what I found.
1. Check the back of the bottle look for ACEA rating of A3 additionally check the back for oils that are LL-01 approved synthetics.
2. Selected one of the MINI recommended oils:
--Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30
--Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40
--Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
--Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W-30

I know this doesn't really answer your questions about weight, etc for your climate. I'm not going to pretend to be an expert. Here is a resource that may helpful with that specfic question.
Great info about oils at Ferrarichat.com

In the end you can always buy MINI oil just to be safe

 

Thanks for the helpful info!!

 

Went into Pep Boys in suburban Philly tonight for Mobil 1 0W-40 European Formula. They had a deal going for 5 qts and Mobil 1 Oil Filter for $29.99.

Regular price was $8.19 per qt. Saved $11.62 including tax plus got a free filter for my other car.

I see on the Mobil 1 website they have $15 rebate available for select retailers, no one near me but might save you same bucks. I just paid $3.97 per gallon for 93 Octane Premium so saving some money isn't a bad thing!

 

Try eBay for oem mini oil filter. there are a couple mini dealers, like prestiige and morristown, that sales on eBay. great price and free ship.

 

Go to germanfilters.com, very reasonable prices and yes they sell Mini filters.

 

Did my '11 justa break-in change yesterday.

No ramps needed.

Very easy.

 

Their prices are fantastic. Just a note, these are not OEM but Mann filters.

 

Just in case you R60 Countryman owners wondered how different your change may be. I thought I'd add a few R60 Countryman S pictures to go along with this valuable post. Thanks again to the OP and contributors on this thread.

The oil filter is a little more of a reach with the R60 and the water reservoir doesn't move out of the way quite as far, but it's the same procedure for the oil change.

-Dante

 

Yeah same issue here, I tried to move the coolant tank just a bit for my hot side tube install and it started to leak too. I might just try to reach the filter from the bottom.

 

Just did the oil change on the Cooper S and I totally forgot that there's a lot of oil left in the filter so when I unscrewed it and pulled it out all the oil just dropped and made a mess. How do I get all that oil cleaned up? I tried to clean as much as possible with a towel but I would like to spray the area with some cleaner, any suggestions? Something safe for the hoses, wires and transmission case. Thanks everyone!!

 

Has anybody used Fuchs 5W40F with a Mann Filter HU711/5x for 2011 Cooper S?

 

Only suggestion I have is to pull the drain plug, remove the filler cap, loosen but do not remove the oil filter cover, let drain, while you wait go see a movie read a book, maybe even write a book. I know, I'm being facetious, but I have yet to pull the filter (4 changes) without having a lot of oil still drip out over everything.
And yes I have waited up to a good half hour, it may be a bit less messy but jeez louise how long does it take?
Any suggestions are welcome.
As for a good cleaner, here are a few links to articles, with links to products in the article.
Most, if not all of the products/methods require rinsing the engine and compartment with water.
I have not used any of these products, or methods on my MINI, I am not an expert in engine cleaning or any automotive related fields, I am not affiliated with any of the sites, or products mentioned or linked in the articles, I do not sell or promote any of the products mentioned or linked in the articles below.
YMMV, and UAYOR:
http://www.autoeducation.com/carcare/engine.htm
http://www.autoeducation.com/carcare/engine.htm
http://www.lanescarproducts.com/sudycl.html

 

Seems to be a common experience with the N18. I circumvented the leakage by taking a large syringe and transferring the coolant in the tank to a separate container prior to unbolting it and moving it out of the way. Used a bungee cord to hold the tank out of the way while swapping the oil filter, then replaced the coolant back into the tank as a final step. Adds no more than 5-10 minutes to the total process.

Odd that the lower hose fitting on the tank is so susceptible to leaking when there's lateral stress applied to the coolant hose, but (thankfully) it seems to be tight as a drum in its normal configuration.

 

Not to disparage the experience of others, you know the old saw YMMV and it certainly applies here, but I've had occasion to move the tank many times (read that as nearly a dozen) for various jobs that included the oil change routine and have never had any leaks develop with the tank or any of the hoses (knocking on all wood surfaces within reach ) , again that is not to say it isn't happening to others.
I like your idea of the bungie cord as it has been in use in my work since the second time, on the first it was held back by plastic ties. But it was obvious that was not a cost effective way once I realized that the tank was in the way for may under the bonnet jobs. One thing I did was order a replacement hose from the dealer after reading of other's having that issue, it is in the garage in a vacuum sealed package hopefully never to be used.

 

Let us know how that worked for you, curious if there is enough open space from underneath to do that, never checked out that possibility.

 

Yes, but as stated previously this issue is apparently limited to the '11 MCS with the N18 power plant, and maybe the R60 (not certain). If your sig is correct, you have an '07 with the N14. The hose appears to be longer on the N14 engine making it easier to move the coolant tank out of the way.

 

See, that just doesn't make sense, the shorter hose that is, after all even the MINI shops need to move the bottle to do an oil change, or any other work down in the area, go figure!

 

Just did my first change yesterday on a 2011 R56 and it couldn't have been easier. I did not use ramps or any lift, just taped together a bunch of garbage bags to protect the garage floor and drove the car over it. There wasn't enough clearance to remove the drain plug with the pan underneath so I loosened it about halfway to minimize the mess and then slid the pan under. At this point I also loosened the oil filler cap + oil filter. Once it was almost done, I removed the plug fully and drained what was left. Switching out the filter was easy - I did not get a single drop of oil removing it and no leakage from the coolant reservoir when moving it out of the way. Put everything back together, torqued the oil filter to 18ft/lb and the drain plug to 22ft/lb and drove it around - no leaks, couldn't be happier.

This was a nice change of scenery from my previous mid-engined car that had to be put on stands and rear passenger side wheel removed just to access the oil filter.

 

I'm working on my 3rd or 4th oil change in my 2007. I got some coolant leakage on that bottom expansion tank connector this time. Freaked me out. I had no issues the other times. It looks like a semi-common issue so I'll put everything back and monitor for leaks. Just to verify, that connector does swivel right? I think I'll order a spare hose just in case. Does any one know the part number? I can't seem to find it on realoem.com.

 

The connector swivels on my '11, and I had leakage from there during my first DIY oil change at 1500 mi. Seems that the hose is a bit shorter on the N18 engine (2011+ MCS) and so it's easier to put a strain on that connector when you move the tank aside to access the oil filter. The lateral strain on the connector is what causes the leakage.

As part of the DIY process now, I take a large syringe and suck out the coolant from the tank before moving it aside. I was freaked out at first too, but over 15K miles I haven't lost a drop of coolant during normal operations. I've safely (so far) assumed that the connector behavior is normal.

 

I ended up doing this too so I could inspect the connector. I popped it off and it looked good to me. It wasn't cracked and the O ring looked fine so I snapped it back on and proceeded as normal. Just a crappy design I guess.