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I can’t seem to find anything related to this anywhere.
1) Does the GP3 take 5.5 quarts / 5.2L of oil?
2) Is there anything more difficult about the GP3 oil change? I saw some videos that the filter can only be accessed from the bottom of the car, seems easy to get to unless I’m missing something about additional bracing on GP3 specific cars.
3) Manual calls for LL17-FE. I am considering using LL-01FE as a recommended substitute per the manual (0w-30) for some additional HTHS protection. Do you guys agree?
Thanks for the info. I was going to go with maybe 5-40 Liqui Moly as I do with all my cars and MOS2 additive for anti-friction. With this car not being so much of a daily driver, will try and keep oil changes to 5K or every 6 mos.
Thanks for the info. I was going to go with maybe 5-40 Liqui Moly as I do with all my cars and MOS2 additive for anti-friction. With this car not being so much of a daily driver, will try and keep oil changes to 5K or every 6 mos.
Why 5-40, when the engine tolerances specify 0-30?
Thicker oil can starve tight tolerance engine parts.
The same reason why I don't run 0-30W on my BMW X5M. The difference of 30W vs 40W is not significant with tolerances of modern engine. I rather have the extra protection and film strength especially in a high pressured turbo motor from a 40W oil vs 30W oil. The use of lighter weight oil by all the manufacturer today is mainly for boosting MPGs to achieve EPA mandates. I can be convinced otherwise with this 4-banger
Stick with LL17-FE, ECS carries it at a reasonable cost.
I am only going with LL01-FE 0W-30 as it if specifically stated in the manual as acceptable to use. Since my GP3 is stock, I think it will offer balanced protection for my hard driving (HTHS of 3.4 compared to 2.8 with LL17-FE) without killing fuel economy.
I use LL-01 5W-40 on my 2 other BMW inline-6 engines, which are both tuned.
The same reason why I don't run 0-30W on my BMW X5M. The difference of 30W vs 40W is not significant with tolerances of modern engine. I rather have the extra protection and film strength especially in a high pressured turbo motor from a 40W oil vs 30W oil. The use of lighter weight oil by all the manufacturer today is mainly for boosting MPGs to achieve EPA mandates. I can be convinced otherwise with this 4-banger
Thinner oil = faster velocity especially through a turbo, oil gets in lubricates, cools, and leaves faster.
Higher pressure and viscosity is NOT essential, it actually slows down.
Thin and thick to a certain point where it provides the most amount of protection. Oil is like religion in the car world. We all have our experiences and preferences even in the face of empirical data. That being said, even empirical data is hard to sift through with the amount of caveats and controls. For the past decade and change, I've been running 0-40w and 5-40W in all my cars from V-TEC Hondas to Porsche GT3/4 and everything in between. All have performed flawlessly without issues.
Should be the same, talked about oil and the changes here on the filter. I would jack it up and open the bottom little door and see were that filter sets. I have not done a change on the GP3 yet so i could not help on that.
Should be the same, talked about oil and the changes here on the filter. I would jack it up and open the bottom little door and see were that filter sets. I have not done a change on the GP3 yet so i could not help on that.
Just finished the an oil change on the GP3. Some things to note:
1) 5.75L is the factory full amount per my service advisor. I used Mini 0w-30 LL-01FE oil.
2) The drain plug is located on the passenger side of the car.
3) There is no engine under tray.
4) You’ll need to remove the half under tray with 8mm screw (7 in total).
5) You will need a T45 torx to unscrew the drain plug under the filter housing before removing the housing.
6) You will need a 32mm oil filter socket to remove the housing and filter.
7) There is additional bracing specific to the GP3 (I believe) that gets in the way of the filter hosing just dropping down vertically. There are also some wires around the filter housing. You will need to unscrew the housing completely then angle the housing toward the passenger side then carefully remove the housing. You’ll reinstall at the same angle you came in (from the passenger side).
Thanks for the the update. I will be changing the oil this weekend as well with the oil/filter kit from ECS along with X-Pel PPF on the front end and ceramic coating.
Just performed an oil change on the GP this weekend. Just like @Hellokitty90 mentioned, it's really straight forward and the oil filter/housing wasn't much of a challenge. Just angle it towards the passenger side and it comes right out with relative ease. I went with LM 5W-40 and a can of MOS2 anti-friction additive. Wife's feedback on driving after the oil change was the GP felt super smooth and noticeably quieter compared to the OE oil that had only 700 miles on it.
not yet. spent last weekend doing 2 layers of ceramic coating on them.
I just need to mount them with tires then get some new wheel studs and lug nuts. I’m taking my time on this since I’ve been too busy at work these days. things won’t cool off until at least another 3-4 weeks :/
Moar pics!!!!
