Changing the rear sway bar
#1
I have an appointment next Thursday to have power flex control arm bushings, front sway bar bushings, Ireland 1.5 fixed camber plates and a Hotchkiss adjustable 19MM rear sway bar installed. Also a four wheel alignment. So I have talked to two different folks and been told not to do the rear sway bar? Both have serious knowledge of the MINI GP. I wonder now if I should pass on the rear sway bar? Anyone have an opinion? Thanks in advance for any replies from my fellow GP owners.
GP1257.
GP1257.
Last edited by willieboy; 06-15-2013 at 04:03 PM.
#2
Go with the 19mm rear sway bar.
Based on experience with my first 2003 R53 (many suspension upgrades), when I got the 2006 GP I started the suspension upgrades with camber plates (set at-2 deg). I drove that way for a year or two but wanted a little less understeer. I added a 19mm rear sway bar with the camber plates and it is a great combination. I currently have the bar set on the stiffest setting for street/Auto-X. I am running the stock JCW springs and shocks.
Based on experience with my first 2003 R53 (many suspension upgrades), when I got the 2006 GP I started the suspension upgrades with camber plates (set at-2 deg). I drove that way for a year or two but wanted a little less understeer. I added a 19mm rear sway bar with the camber plates and it is a great combination. I currently have the bar set on the stiffest setting for street/Auto-X. I am running the stock JCW springs and shocks.
#3
Go with the 19mm rear sway bar.
Based on experience with my first 2003 R53 (many suspension upgrades), when I got the 2006 GP I started the suspension upgrades with camber plates (set at-2 deg). I drove that way for a year or two but wanted a little less understeer. I added a 19mm rear sway bar with the camber plates and it is a great combination. I currently have the bar set on the stiffest setting for street/Auto-X. I am running the stock JCW springs and shocks.
Based on experience with my first 2003 R53 (many suspension upgrades), when I got the 2006 GP I started the suspension upgrades with camber plates (set at-2 deg). I drove that way for a year or two but wanted a little less understeer. I added a 19mm rear sway bar with the camber plates and it is a great combination. I currently have the bar set on the stiffest setting for street/Auto-X. I am running the stock JCW springs and shocks.
GP1257.
#4
#6
broken sway bar; replace with??
This seems related, but maybe should be it's own new topic...
My Hotchkis sway bar broke at the passenger-side bend.
My MCS 2005 has Koni FSD dampers, lower rear cabmer control arms, 19mm sway bar, H-sport springs. Would you replace with the same H sport or other brand & why? ... H&S, Alta, Ireland Engineering (similar to Alta with the welded ends)?
I've done my research on NAM & the manufacturer's sites. What's your opinion?
My Hotchkis sway bar broke at the passenger-side bend.
My MCS 2005 has Koni FSD dampers, lower rear cabmer control arms, 19mm sway bar, H-sport springs. Would you replace with the same H sport or other brand & why? ... H&S, Alta, Ireland Engineering (similar to Alta with the welded ends)?
I've done my research on NAM & the manufacturer's sites. What's your opinion?
#7
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#8
Got the camber plates, bushings and rear sway bar installed today. The alignment was completed too. Found out the the rear camber is at 1.9 going in and that happens to be the stock numbers for the GP per the technician. The front is now 1.8 and she drives great and straight. Now if I just had those sticky tires I want cornering is much nicer for sure.
GP1257.
GP1257.
#9
Should be a nice setup.
I am surprised that the rear camber could not be reduced to a little less negative but maybe the tech did not know to try. It would be better to have less negative camber in the rear. I am able to get to -1.5 to-1.6 in the rear with the stock adjustment but would prefer around -1.0 in the rear. To get less then -1.5 will require adding adjustable rear lower control arm. Next time you get an alignment ask them to adjust the rear camber to as little negative as possible.
You can also adjust the front and rear toe to improve handling and reduce tire wear.
I am surprised that the rear camber could not be reduced to a little less negative but maybe the tech did not know to try. It would be better to have less negative camber in the rear. I am able to get to -1.5 to-1.6 in the rear with the stock adjustment but would prefer around -1.0 in the rear. To get less then -1.5 will require adding adjustable rear lower control arm. Next time you get an alignment ask them to adjust the rear camber to as little negative as possible.
You can also adjust the front and rear toe to improve handling and reduce tire wear.
#10
Should be a nice setup.
I am surprised that the rear camber could not be reduced to a little less negative but maybe the tech did not know to try. It would be better to have less negative camber in the rear. I am able to get to -1.5 to-1.6 in the rear with the stock adjustment but would prefer around -1.0 in the rear. To get less then -1.5 will require adding adjustable rear lower control arm. Next time you get an alignment ask them to adjust the rear camber to as little negative as possible.
You can also adjust the front and rear toe to improve handling and reduce tire wear.
I am surprised that the rear camber could not be reduced to a little less negative but maybe the tech did not know to try. It would be better to have less negative camber in the rear. I am able to get to -1.5 to-1.6 in the rear with the stock adjustment but would prefer around -1.0 in the rear. To get less then -1.5 will require adding adjustable rear lower control arm. Next time you get an alignment ask them to adjust the rear camber to as little negative as possible.
You can also adjust the front and rear toe to improve handling and reduce tire wear.
#11
Don't worry about it much.
In general you are trying to get the rear to tend towards being a little looser than the front (oversteer rather understeer). One way to do that is to reduce the rear camber so the rear has a little less traction when cornering. Just like you increased the negative camber in the front to get better front traction when cornering you want to reduce the rear traction slightly by reducing the negative camber.
I also adjust the front toe to slight toe-out rather than normal toe-in and I adjust the rear toe to zero. This helps reduce tire wear because the tire does not scrub across the inside edge of the tire. Zero to slight toe-out slightly reduces the straight line but improves turn-in response and reduces tire wear. Just one of the various compromises you can make with alignment changes. There are various posts about alignment settings to learn more and help you decide what is best for your driving style.
In general you are trying to get the rear to tend towards being a little looser than the front (oversteer rather understeer). One way to do that is to reduce the rear camber so the rear has a little less traction when cornering. Just like you increased the negative camber in the front to get better front traction when cornering you want to reduce the rear traction slightly by reducing the negative camber.
I also adjust the front toe to slight toe-out rather than normal toe-in and I adjust the rear toe to zero. This helps reduce tire wear because the tire does not scrub across the inside edge of the tire. Zero to slight toe-out slightly reduces the straight line but improves turn-in response and reduces tire wear. Just one of the various compromises you can make with alignment changes. There are various posts about alignment settings to learn more and help you decide what is best for your driving style.
#12
Don't worry about it much.
In general you are trying to get the rear to tend towards being a little looser than the front (oversteer rather understeer). One way to do that is to reduce the rear camber so the rear has a little less traction when cornering. Just like you increased the negative camber in the front to get better front traction when cornering you want to reduce the rear traction slightly by reducing the negative camber.
I also adjust the front toe to slight toe-out rather than normal toe-in and I adjust the rear toe to zero. This helps reduce tire wear because the tire does not scrub across the inside edge of the tire. Zero to slight toe-out slightly reduces the straight line but improves turn-in response and reduces tire wear. Just one of the various compromises you can make with alignment changes. There are various posts about alignment settings to learn more and help you decide what is best for your driving style.
In general you are trying to get the rear to tend towards being a little looser than the front (oversteer rather understeer). One way to do that is to reduce the rear camber so the rear has a little less traction when cornering. Just like you increased the negative camber in the front to get better front traction when cornering you want to reduce the rear traction slightly by reducing the negative camber.
I also adjust the front toe to slight toe-out rather than normal toe-in and I adjust the rear toe to zero. This helps reduce tire wear because the tire does not scrub across the inside edge of the tire. Zero to slight toe-out slightly reduces the straight line but improves turn-in response and reduces tire wear. Just one of the various compromises you can make with alignment changes. There are various posts about alignment settings to learn more and help you decide what is best for your driving style.
GP1257.
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