I'm new to NAM and would appreciate member input regarding my anticipated purchase of an '06 GP. I have some major concerns/questions:

Are GPs labor intensive requiring often costly repairs, component replacement, service?

What is the life expectancy of the steering pump and what does replacement cost?

In general, what are the weakest links in the GP running gear that cause the most headaches?

Can run flat tires be replaced by regular tires w/o adversely impacting TPMS, suspension settings, etc.?

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.

HD

 

What costly repairs/service? In our experience, the MINI GP is a trouble-free as any '05-'06 MCS. Keep in mind, the '06 was the last of the Series 1 and they had most problem areas pretty much solved. There's no TPMS. Yes, if you want to keep the fillings in your teeth, you should change out to standard tires (215/40x18 preferred size). Normal maintenance, change oil & filter at 1/2 MINI prescribed intervals, etc. The MINI GP is an absolute HOOT and it's weakest link is usually the driver!

 

bahahaaha

 

Here is a link to a good buyers guide that describes the various years and common and not-so-common problems.
http://www.motoringfile.com/mini-r50r53-buyers-guide/
As stated from a maintenance standpoint a GP is no different than a 2006 Mini Cooper S.

There are no major problems/concerns with the driveline. Engine and transmission are strong. Some people had clutches replaced under warranty but not real concern.
Some normal little issues are:
- Thermostat housing/gaskets leak
- Crankshaft Position Sensor O-Ring leak
- Top motor mount leak
- Lower control arm bushings wear out

I have not heard of many people having problems with the steering pump. Not an issue.

 

Agree with all of the prior comments. You definitely want to replace the RFT with non-RFT on this car, as the GP comes with 18" low profile tires and JCW suspension.

Have you driven a GP? A test drive will make the decision much easier

 

Unless you buy a "dog", you'll spend more on gas and insurance than you will on the maintenance of the GP.

 

Funny that this thread popped up. My GP has about 50K miles on it and the dealer took a look last week and said I needed:

PS Feed and Return Line
Oil Pan Gasket

I'm just hoping they were being overzealous.

 

I have seen posts of people having power steering lines that seep.
I would bet on your crank position sensor o-ring rather than the oil pan gasket.

 

Are you the original owner? If so, how much would you estimate the GP has cost you at the 50k mileage mark? Thanks

 

I am the original owner. Really no repair costs to 50K due to warranty, only normal maintenance costs. I perform my own repairs so I am not good at estimating shop labor costs.

Over 10 years my maintenance costs have been every little. Even if you do not do work yourself and you have all the noted problems, I would suspect an average of $400-$500 a year. If you do your own work about $200 a year.

Assuming no warranty, I would plan for these repairs all the way to 100,000 miles:
Engine Mount Replacement ($90 part + $150 labor)
Crank Position Sensor O-Ring ($4 part + $300 labor)
Thermostat Housing & Gasket ($80 part + $300 hour labor)
Coolant Recovery Tank ($70 part + $100 labor, not common 2006 failure)
Top Front Strut Mounts ($200 part + $400 labor)
Lower Control Arm Bushings ($200 part + $500 labor)

If you do not do the work yourself shop labor is expensive.

The ignition coils tend to rust at the connect points, so they should be checked and cleaned. I replaced my coil with an aftermarket coil ($85) and at the same time I replaced the spark plug wires ($60).

Normal maintenance items are oil, oil filter, air filter, cabin filter, spark plugs, and surp belt. Use should do these yourself. I change oil every 7,500, I clean the air filter every 15,000, I change plugs, belt, and cabin filter every 30,000.
Oil Change ($50)
JCW Air Filter ($100) - I switched to a reusable filter
Spark plugs ($65)
Belt ($30)
Cabin Filter ($30)

For oil change you need short 36mm socket ($15)
For the belt change you need to borrow or buy the release tool ($85)

If you need LCA bushing many people replace the ball joints at the same time (whole powerflex kit $280).

 

Yeah - the dealership took a look at my MINI and they gave me this checklist

PS Feed and Return Line
Crank Sensor O-rings
Oil Pan Gasket

I just hope they are being overzealous and it's just the crank sensor o-ring and not the oil pan gasket.

 

I would seriously doubt that both the pan gasket AND the crank pos. sensor o-ring are leaking and would bet on the latter. If you can put the car in "service mode" (See "how to" section), you can do the job yourself for less than $2. Also, just tighten the clamps of the power steering lines and see what happens.
...and Halid, in life, there are no warranties expressed or implied. It's good that you want to go into MINI GP ownership with some idea of maintenance costs but, in reality, we cannot predict the future. Buy the car, take care of it but, most of all, enjoy it. Life is too short to do otherwise.

 

Agreed. I am not very mechanically savvy so I'll have to leave it to the hands of my mechanic. But I also do not think it's both that's leaking... at least I hope!

 

Thank you.You have provided some very useful/comprehensive information. Yes, it certainly appears that dealer labor (or shop labor in general) is very expensive. Regrettably, I no longer have a garage and the loads of tools I once had. Thus, aside from the light maintenance you described I must pay the big bucks. -- HD

 

I think the same can be said for any used no-warranty car that you buy.

 

It's probably the Crank sensor. I have 84K on my 03 MCSa and the pan is dry but the crank o-ring leaks. it makes a nice mess. Also for the PS lines. Don't replace them before you try changing the clamps. This will fix a LOT of PS leaks. I would recommend you find a good mechanic and get the hell out of the dealership. Your car and wallet will thank you

 

Yup - dropping it off next Tuesday to get a second opinion. Also making the recommendation to replace just the crank sensor and tighten/replace PS Line clamps.

 

Only thing paid for is LCA bushing (went with Powerflex) 02 Sensors (was to far from dealer and stranded, so had to buy it) and Spark plugs (dealer caught me with Brisk plugs), but otherwise warranty would have covered everything and now 02 sensors and cats have extended warranty I believe. Warranty covered everything and then bought extended warranty too. 2 major things covered under warranty were the clutch and engine harness.

 

You're in good shape with all the warranty coverage. When I buy the '06 now, the warranties will have expired therefore everything that may go wrong and/or require replacentment will be a direct out-of-pocket hit.

 

In reality you're looking at a 2006 vehicle and worrying re maintenance costs.....best advice is to leave it.

If you need these costs covered then buy a newer vehicle with a warranty. Yes you can buy aftermarket warranties but from what I've heard, I wouldn't touch one with a sharp stick!!

Best of luck whichever way you go...

 

The car I am buying has only 5k on the odo. It's virtually like new. Presumably it will not require extensive maintenance for quite awhile.

Thanks for your reply.

 

Your car is a winner. Beautiful!

 

Personally not sure if such low mileage vehicles are a good idea.

I bought a very low mileage E46 M3 and had many problems with it, the majority were electrical and the BMW dealer I got it from said that the problems were probably caused by the car not being used....however, the UK is probably alot damper than where you are!

If you mean my car...thank you.

 

Some cases Henry with respect to the PS lines, if the leaks are at the OEM band clamps, just cut them off and replace with regular hose clamps and tighten them down as much as possible, then top off with the CHF11S. It may just get you thru for a while until you can have the lines replaced.

The oil pan gasket is labor intensive. Unless it is really bad, I would just keep eye on the oil level and have that done when the control arm bushings have to be replaced.....in both cases the sub frame is removed so incorporating them into one job will save you some $$.

- would also have the crank sensor O-ring done same time along with the front sway bar bushings with a set of Powerflex in either purple or black.

 

Thanks for the advice Dave. Always looking to save some $$