Considering the problems of suspending the GP on four jackstands, has anyone come up with a safe way of bleeding the brakes on these "puppies"? My wife's (#1772) is due and I've just purchased #1314 and it needs a complete change as well. Yes, I could just put the cars up on boards and bleed with the wheels on but that's something of a PITA.
I guess I could put the rear on jackstands, remove the rear wheels, bleed the rears, then re-install the rears wheels, put the front on jackstands, remove the front wheels, bleed, replace the front wheels.
Any other suggestions?

 

You definitely could do that.

I have a tendency to do the entire passenger or left side first then the right or drivers side. There is a lot of talk about doing the furthest one first and then the next closest. But I never had problems wih the complete side approach. This way, you only have to jack the car up twice.

 

Thanks for the response. With your approach, are you jacking on the front pad, putting a jackstand on the rear pad and trusting the jack to hold? Also, it would seem to put the brake fluid reservoir at a rather severe angle...or should I not be concerned?

 

1314 was the one i was trying to buy! congrats

 

I jack it from the front jack pad and both wheels lift. Do the rear first and leave the front wheel on. Since I am not getting under the car and just bleeding brakes, I do not generally use jack stands. inuse the motive pump so do no any issue with liquid level. Just don't let the reservoir run dry you should be fine.

 

Thx! Nice car, low miles, very clean. Just a few minor cosmetic issues but easily corrected. We were just 40 mi. away so EZ to go see it.

 

NC TRACKRAT
You may not need to do this to just bleed your brakes but here is how I get my GP up on four jackstands using just the jacking points.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3322710 see post #4
Steve

 

The Itch, I like the 4x4 method! I've got a MIG welder and may even fashion a wide steel bar with attachments at each end which would fit into the jacking sockets, BTW, I've found that a HONDA Civic scissors jack with a block fastened on top to fit the jacking socket will clear the aero rockers, both front and rear. It'll even fit into one of the hidden trunk compartments. Great for emergencies.

 

NC TRACKRAT
I use one of the Harbor Freight alluminum racing jacks. It is low profile and works for the inexpensive price. Just be sure if you use this that you lube the front roller. I had one seize on me and they replaced it.
Steve

 

I've had one for about 5-6 years. Only problem I've had is a leaking valve. I just top off with hyd. jack oil periodically and bleed it. BTW, on the ends of your 4x4, have you made and attached blocks to simulate the plastic blocks supplied with the GP?

 

NC TRACKRAT
I have not made any special blocks for the ends of the 4x4. I just give my blocks a tap and they seem to stay in the jacking points. I prefer to keep it simple until it is a problem area. Besides they store out of the way during the good driving months.
Steve

 

I'm thinking about finding a couple of lengths of 2"x1" rectangular steel tubing and fitting the ends with blocks to go up into the jacking receptacles. I've measured and my jack should fit under it. Jack up, then put jackstands under the tubing front and rear. If the tubing wall is 3/16" thick, it shouldn't deflect. Comments?

 

Thanks NCTRACKRAT for the idea. I picked up 2 pieces of 4x6 wood posts and had them cut down to 66" and used the spare ends as wheel chocks to lift up my GP. Super strong and works really well! Had to get some of those foam race ramps to get the front up a few inches before everything else could fit under the GPs low rocker panels.