So I just bought an 06 r53 with 73k on it from a dealer in NY, I'm in Maryland and I had it shipped. I got it inspected and it failed for the tint. I picked it removed all of the shitty tint and took it back and it passed. After ripping all of the tint off it left all the adhesive on the windows so I went out today to try and work on getting it off. I did the passanger side and it took a long time with the goo gone (pain in the ***) .
After the 1st window I decided to take a break from that and work on flattening my mildly mushroomed stut towers to be able to install my M7 strut brace. jacked up the passanger side and fixed that strut tower and went to the drivers side and found that the metal jack point is missing. can those be replaced? If so, does anyone know where I can get one? I felt around in that area and there is a hole in the center of the square area where it goes so I guessing that maybe it was bolted in. hopefully someone on here can shed some light on this for me.

 

I thought it was hard rubber, at least mine was.....I had to find one for my '04....found one on eBay

Bryan

 

Here you go:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vaico-pa...717039760~vai/

I've never seen metal ones either. Just hard rubber ones.

 

Replacement jacking pads are cheap and available from forum sponsors (ECS Tuning, Way Motor Works, Outmotoring).

FWIW, I use the method forum member @CORNERS aka, "Mod MINI" demonstrates in this old video from 7 yrs ago, i.e., my low saddle floor jack with short section board (I use scrap piece 1" thick Trex) placed on the forward subframe rail placed just behind the front jacking pad. Doing that allows the entire side to be lifted, then jack stands placed on those pads at all 4 points if I'm going to be underneath the car (also place car ramps under rear wheels for additional safety just in case). Be sure to bookmark his 1st Gen playlist for repair topics of future interest.

BTW, don't confuse my sig license plate image with the above member/mechanic. Just "somewhat" coincidental...

 

Thanks, I just assumed that they were metal. I didn't look at the ones there or touch them.

 

https://amzn.to/3n730fm

 

BlimeyCabrio had a few pictures on 'how a stud lifts a MINI' but apparently his website no longer exists.
Here's a video that shows the same thing. I use it every time I need things off the ground,.

 

We do offer the stock ones
https://www.waymotorworks.com/stock-mini-jack-pad.html

But also have the metal aluminum TSW jack points that we actually have made with a groove to fit the jack stand. These are also shorter so the jack fits under the car easier when lifting.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/tsw-sh...ck-points.html

 

Those are on my wish list because they look to be bulletproof (bombproof actually!) and they're not much more money than stock either, trying to save up a big wad of cash so I can come down to visit the new shop and get a bunch of goodies I've been wanting, like your baffled sump amongst other stuff.

And,
let me take this opportunity to THANK YOU for continuing to support R53's both through mechanical maintenance upkeep at your shop, as well as offering a quality parts supply.

So many other companies that once supported R53 have either flaked out or disappeared entirely,
so it's great that you remain strong still standing and actively engaged.

LONG LIVE WMW

THANKS!

 

^^^ Agreed, I looked at those on Way's site last night when ordering a pair of the Powerflex MINI Jacking Pads. My OEM jacking points are in good condition, so don't need replacements. Not so sure I like TSW's "molly" screws with spring-loaded "butterfly" retainers, which seem better suited for drywall than automotive application. Perhaps plastic push-pins could be utilized instead?

 

I believe the whole point of the toggle bolts was to avoid using the OEM pins, which wouldn't work with aluminum jack points anyway.

 

^^^ But why? Without easy access to the backside to remove a broken or rusty "butterfly" (just now confirmed not), it'll end up rattling around. Those fasteners are generally cheap poorly plated Chinese products. If there was easy access, conventional nuts would be used. I'd want easily replaceable OEM style plastic pins or good quality machine screws in combo with threaded nutserts swaged into existing pushpin holes. Many of us already have such tools, along with various sizes fractional and metric nutserts.

 

I almost bought those aluminum pads, but the toggle bolt made me second guess that decision.

I ended up getting these instead:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-jl-germa...718268885~jlg/
Shorter than stock, and cheap. If they ever distort or break, I won't feel bad about having to replace them.

 

The holes aren't sized for the pushpins. They are oblong, and the jack point snaps into them. AFAIK, the pin just keeps the jack point from popping back out. How would you use a nutsert in that situation without getting out the welder?

I don't love the WMW design much either, but I can see why he made the decisions he did.

 

I just ordered a stock one, as I don't trust the tsw design

 

I suggest a little RTV on installation to keep ‘‘em on your car

 

I echo this sentiment. Way was a pleasure to work with on my head rebuild. Definitely my go to resource.

 

I third the sentiment. I've had nothing but good experiences.