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General MINI TalkShared experiences, motoring minutes, and other general MINI-related discussion that applies to all MINIs, regardless of model, year or trim.
I purchased a 2009 non-turbo Clubman. ~70,000, recent clutch radiator etc. When I bought it the motor has low power. Price was right and cars interior body etc. are great. Price was right all things considered. It has enough to get it up the ramp and on an auto trailer without an issue but not enough to drive around etc. Car was in storage for a few years and the battery removed. I do not have a battery, getting that tonight, seller kept that. For this reason I do not have any codes.
Where is the best place to start diagnosing this? My experience is with older GM pushrod engines. I have ordered a Foxwell NT510 scanner to help with these task. I am thinking fuel filter, air filter, plugs, coil packs, injectors...
First I would make sure that you have a good battery in it, these things do funky stuff with a low battery. Then before spending any more money, make sure it has fluids and try to start it, then you should be able to pull codes and go from there.
I always do a compression test on a motor I've just met. The electronics cannot detect many mechanical issues, so I seek a firm base before proceeding.
Updates. All fluids look good and are at the correct level. Bought a new battery, car does not have IBS that I can see. I do plan to change out all of the fluids but making a long list. Bought a Foxwell NT510 scanner and spark plug socket for the car on Amazon, They should arrive tomorrow. Took the car down the road and back yesterday and here is how the test drive went.
Stumbles between 1200 and 1400 RPM if giving gas at idle or dies at this point. When driving it does not like anything above 3/4 throttle. Max speed ~45 MPH. It looses power on hills, even slight incomes. It does have a vary loud hissing when giving it gas while driving, only goes away when foot is off the accelerator. It sounds like it sucking air during acceleration and when maintaining speed, coasting no sucking is heard. This can be heard with the windows down, windows up you barely notice it this said the car is well insulated. After the drive there is a code, waiting for the scanner to read it. Check engine is the only light on the dash.
Transmission and clutch fell good.
Brakes feel good after the rust was worn off the rotors, it had been sitting a while.
Heat seams to work, air is untested. Turning on the air at ide bogs down the engine. Did not try it during the test drive.
All lights work
Have the codes now. There where a ton so I cleared them, took a test drive and took note of what came back. Per my Foxwell scanner: 2AFC, 2B16, 2B56, and 2E1A. The first three seem to point at a Differential pressure sensor, intake manifold and air mass sensor. The forth points at the water temp sensor.
Car will die at idle if revved between 800 - 1200 RPM. Could also hear misfiring during revving. When driving it tops out at ~45 MPH. lost speed on hills. There is a loud hissing when on the gas.
I then unplugged the mass air flow sensor. The results where that the car did not stall, misfire or stumble when revving in neutral. It actually sounded fairly smooth. When driving topped out just over 60 mph and held speed on hills when a little extra gas was applied. There was a lesser hiss when pressing the gas while driving. All codes returned after this test drive.
Both times the acceleration was poor.
Could a mass air flow sensor cause all of the above issues? Would not having one cause the engine to run smoother but still be vary under powered?
I might start getting the maintenance up to date. Things like oil change, plugs, filters, maybe ignition coils. Clean the MAF sensor. After that, see where you're at. Might also check to make sure there aren't any air leaks in the intake piping and manifold connections, and the PCV piping is still in tact.
Did some work on the MINI,
- New plugs
- New air filter
- Removed air box, intake and verified no blockage
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Cleaned intake and exhausts VANOS solenoids
- Sprayed throttle body with throttle body cleaner, did not remove it
- Checked various plugs sensors etc, nothing visually bad or unplugged
Cleared all codes and test drove. Still receiving 2AFC - DME: Differential-Pressure Sensor, intake manifold signal, 2B16 - DME: Differential pressure intake manifold plausibility, 2B56: Air-mass sensor plausibility.
During the test drives car stumbles at idle, At 3000 RPM it is like a governor is kicking in or something. This only happens when driving. At idle I can rev over 3000 no issue. There is also a hissing sound when doing anything other than coasting wile driving. Top speed is about 65 MPH at this point.
The car only reads misfires when idling and not when driving. It is no-longer throwing a misfire code. I verified this by using the live misfire counter. While driving this showed nothing. Idling it counted them equally on all cylinder when the engine stumbled.
I know that I have only cleaned parts to date and if a bad part is cleaned it is still bad. I just do not want to throw money randomly at the car. It is running better than when I started. Have a three day weekend coming up so I I have to order parts I need to do it soon.
I was wondering if a vacuum leak somewhere could be causing this? If so is there someplace that the MINIs commonly have vacuum leaks? I had read the valve cover can cause vacuum leaks. Is this true and could it be possible causing may issue?
Looks like there is a PCV hose at the back left of the valve cover:
That hose is a source of headaches on the N14 turbo engines. I would triple check that hose to make sure it isn't broken or leaking air. If it is leaking, I would expect to hear a hissing noise, which you mention.
Another update. Only code left is the 2B56: Air-mass sensor plausibility. The MINI is still cutting out at 3000 RPM when I try and drive it. I have replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor and MAP sensor with Bosch ones from AutoZone. There do not appear to be any vacuum leaks. Friend had access to a Snap On scanner and it is showing that the signal provided by the mass air flow senor is not consistent, even at idle. It is vary erratic. The hissing sound I found is a poorly connected exhaust piece. Will remedy that after this is running smoothly.
Anyone have access to a wiring diagram for the harness from the mass air flow sensor to the ECM? I think that may be where I check next. Maybe the mass air flow sensor has been good all along.
Sorry for the delay in the update. I have had a few things taking time away from projects. The final issue was a partially clogged second cat. Had that replaced and it runs like a champ with CEL. Passes inspection. Apparently it had multiple issues and that made it more complex to work things out.
