Thinking bout buying a Mini....
#1
Thinking bout buying a Mini....
I have been "researching" the purchase of a mini this fall. However, I have a few questions:
1-- I have heard that oil changes cost $150 to $200 each time. Is this true? Why?
2-- what are the top 3 usual maintenance items on a mini (2015 thru 2017)
3-- is there that much of a difference in power and performance between the Mini Cooper and Mini Cooper S?
Thanks for your answers and additional thoughts.
Dadmandude, Indiana
1-- I have heard that oil changes cost $150 to $200 each time. Is this true? Why?
2-- what are the top 3 usual maintenance items on a mini (2015 thru 2017)
3-- is there that much of a difference in power and performance between the Mini Cooper and Mini Cooper S?
Thanks for your answers and additional thoughts.
Dadmandude, Indiana
#2
I have been "researching" the purchase of a mini this fall. However, I have a few questions:
1-- I have heard that oil changes cost $150 to $200 each time. Is this true? Why?
2-- what are the top 3 usual maintenance items on a mini (2015 thru 2017)
3-- is there that much of a difference in power and performance between the Mini Cooper and Mini Cooper S?
Thanks for your answers and additional thoughts.
Dadmandude, Indiana
1-- I have heard that oil changes cost $150 to $200 each time. Is this true? Why?
2-- what are the top 3 usual maintenance items on a mini (2015 thru 2017)
3-- is there that much of a difference in power and performance between the Mini Cooper and Mini Cooper S?
Thanks for your answers and additional thoughts.
Dadmandude, Indiana
In regards to maintenance - the biggest expense will be brakes, at around $1200 for a full brake service (rotors, pads). After that, long-term, you'd be looking at tires, and then maybe the front suspension bushings.
Performance wise, you'll see a sizeable difference between the S and the Non-S (57 horsepower, 42 lb-ft of torque, better handling, better braking), however, the difference between the two is less now than it used to be. I honestly have grown to prefer the non-S, as I really enjoy the character and efficiency of the turbocharged three-cylinder engine.
#4
I have been "researching" the purchase of a mini this fall. However, I have a few questions:
1-- I have heard that oil changes cost $150 to $200 each time. Is this true? Why?
2-- what are the top 3 usual maintenance items on a mini (2015 thru 2017)
3-- is there that much of a difference in power and performance between the Mini Cooper and Mini Cooper S?
Thanks for your answers and additional thoughts.
Dadmandude, Indiana
1-- I have heard that oil changes cost $150 to $200 each time. Is this true? Why?
2-- what are the top 3 usual maintenance items on a mini (2015 thru 2017)
3-- is there that much of a difference in power and performance between the Mini Cooper and Mini Cooper S?
Thanks for your answers and additional thoughts.
Dadmandude, Indiana
For question two, can't answer. R56 is the name of the game for me and I highly recommend the same to you if you plan on buying used/private (which I also HIGHLY recommend).
However, for number three theres a clear winner. You will be much happier with the S, trust me... Not only resale or value in general, but overall drivability, fun factor, noise, aftermarket capabilities and so on. Whenever I see a Mini non "s" I just feel bad for them. The one advantage for them is really MPG, and honestly, its not much better. I average like 35 with spirited driving in the city. I mean, the non S looks kinda like a boring city car, when the S looks like an actual performer. Just my .2 cents!
Good luck with your decision!
#5
However, for number three theres a clear winner. You will be much happier with the S, trust me... Not only resale or value in general, but overall drivability, fun factor, noise, aftermarket capabilities and so on. Whenever I see a Mini non "s" I just feel bad for them. The one advantage for them is really MPG, and honestly, its not much better. I average like 35 with spirited driving in the city. I mean, the non S looks kinda like a boring city car, when the S looks like an actual performer. Just my .2 cents!
F56 is different so don't be feeling bad for someone driving a basic F. They are getting better gas mileage and having just as much fun. I drive both and it is hard to choose which I like better.
#6
You can't compare R series to F series cars. I take it you are talking about R56 vs R56S.
F56 is different so don't be feeling bad for someone driving a basic F. They are getting better gas mileage and having just as much fun. I drive both and it is hard to choose which I like better.
F56 is different so don't be feeling bad for someone driving a basic F. They are getting better gas mileage and having just as much fun. I drive both and it is hard to choose which I like better.
#7
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#13
Go with the JCW if you can. You will not regret it. The maintenance is about the same. One thing is you have to change the spark plugs more often. And if you have the BBK package you will have more expensive pads sometimes.
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
#14
#15
bhmini I don't think that's the case, otherwise every California JCW would be handicapped from the start since we only have 91 here.
JCW isn't much more expensive to maintain. Probably the brakes and plugs like ECS says, but for stuff like oil changes, brake fluid, they follow the same recommendations as the S. Even then, an extra set of plugs is about $45 so not a real deal breaker.
JCW isn't much more expensive to maintain. Probably the brakes and plugs like ECS says, but for stuff like oil changes, brake fluid, they follow the same recommendations as the S. Even then, an extra set of plugs is about $45 so not a real deal breaker.
#16
Red makes a car go fatter and stripes on red, then you are just flying.
You can chew through tires. I put Falken's (Non-Run Flat) on Lucy this last time and they have been the best for traction and life I have ever had. I am just clearing 40K on them and still have 4/32's on them. On any of the Mini OEM tires or sold by the dealership I have rarely been over 20K. The all wheel drive leaves the wear extremely even where with my Clubman I would tear up the front tires.
I only drive floor-clutch-floor-clutch all of the time. At a light turning left I can hit third gear before I complete the corner. It is an immensely fun car to drive.
You can chew through tires. I put Falken's (Non-Run Flat) on Lucy this last time and they have been the best for traction and life I have ever had. I am just clearing 40K on them and still have 4/32's on them. On any of the Mini OEM tires or sold by the dealership I have rarely been over 20K. The all wheel drive leaves the wear extremely even where with my Clubman I would tear up the front tires.
I only drive floor-clutch-floor-clutch all of the time. At a light turning left I can hit third gear before I complete the corner. It is an immensely fun car to drive.
#17
I bought a '13 R56 for my 16 year old twins. I enjoy driving it so much I'm looking for an older S model for myself.
I want the S, or JCW at the right price, for more power. Older so I can mod the car without too much complaining from the wife.
I've owned Alfa's most of my life so parts cost is not a big jump.
I want the S, or JCW at the right price, for more power. Older so I can mod the car without too much complaining from the wife.
I've owned Alfa's most of my life so parts cost is not a big jump.
#18
bhmini I don't think that's the case, otherwise every California JCW would be handicapped from the start since we only have 91 here.
JCW isn't much more expensive to maintain. Probably the brakes and plugs like ECS says, but for stuff like oil changes, brake fluid, they follow the same recommendations as the S. Even then, an extra set of plugs is about $45 so not a real deal breaker.
JCW isn't much more expensive to maintain. Probably the brakes and plugs like ECS says, but for stuff like oil changes, brake fluid, they follow the same recommendations as the S. Even then, an extra set of plugs is about $45 so not a real deal breaker.
My mistake. The manual calls for 91, and even suggests the S and JCW can tolerate 89. Here in South Florida I could alternate fillups (at the half tank) between 87 (Regular) and 93 (Premium) and "net" 90. I don't plan to do this even though it would save, on average, about 15 cents a gallon. (Woohoo)!
#20
I use OEM oil, so if I change it myself, it costs us around $65. The dealer in OKC normally charges $80, but they often run specials for $60 or $70. So, paying $5-$15 to get the oil changed isn't bad for us.
I think the most expensive maintenance is the alignment. It pretty much has to be done at the dealer. I've tried other places, but the alignment never sticks. It's cheaper to go to the dealer and have it done right. An alignment runs around $120 unless they're running a special. We've paid as little as $80 for an alignment at the dealer.
You also need to keep the tranny fluid changed, and it's much cheaper to do this yourself. I buy the fluid at he dealer. It costs around $50 for the fluid for our manual R53. (I've been doing this for 11 years, and the tranny is solid.) I haven't changed the Countryman's yet, but I'm assuming it will be the same. I change the tranny fluid every 30K.
I think the most expensive maintenance is the alignment. It pretty much has to be done at the dealer. I've tried other places, but the alignment never sticks. It's cheaper to go to the dealer and have it done right. An alignment runs around $120 unless they're running a special. We've paid as little as $80 for an alignment at the dealer.
You also need to keep the tranny fluid changed, and it's much cheaper to do this yourself. I buy the fluid at he dealer. It costs around $50 for the fluid for our manual R53. (I've been doing this for 11 years, and the tranny is solid.) I haven't changed the Countryman's yet, but I'm assuming it will be the same. I change the tranny fluid every 30K.
#21
I have a 2015 F56s. I do oil changes every 5k miles, so with the 3-year free maintenance I pay $85 every other time.
I'm almost at 20k miles and already have had to get new tires. The OEM tires are crap. Swapped out my Dunlop RTFs for regular Michelin pilot sport A/S3. WheelWorks had a special on alignments, $169 one time fee with free alignments after, anytime I think I need them, plus free tire rotation. Can't beat that. So far, I have about 2k miles on the new tires and alignment, no issues or complaints.
I'm almost at 20k miles and already have had to get new tires. The OEM tires are crap. Swapped out my Dunlop RTFs for regular Michelin pilot sport A/S3. WheelWorks had a special on alignments, $169 one time fee with free alignments after, anytime I think I need them, plus free tire rotation. Can't beat that. So far, I have about 2k miles on the new tires and alignment, no issues or complaints.