Is there any difference in getting the oil changed at the dealership than at the Jiffy Lube? other than the price ($150 vs $50)..

*will definitely not do it myself

I've read all sorts of things on this. Please comment! I have a Mini S, 2008

 

Jiffy Lubes will not change your oil properly, take it to your dealer. The peace of mind of having your dealership (who work almost exclusively with Minis) perform the change is more than worth the additional cost. Not to mention if something does go wrong with a dealership oil change it will be covered under warranty and it is documented to be performed by them.

MINI dealerships also run service specials all the time. Check your snail mail, and subscribe to your dealership's email list to get the coupons.

 

Though it may seem that paying more for having your dealer change your oil v. Jiffy Lube bargain basement price is absurd, the peace of mind that you garner from having it done correctly is priceless.

DrewN stated some very valid and pertinent points why the dealer is the preferred route to take.

Unless you are going to change your own oil (assuming you have the proper tools, knowledge, diligence, etc.) and you said that was out of the question, then the dealer is your best bet.

I would add that an independent shop (certified mechanic you trust, a shop that specializes in MINIs, etc.) is also a good choice. The only drawback is the issue not being covered under warranty as it would be in a dealer's shop.

Best of luck and Motor On!

 

I just got my MINI, so I don't know what's involved with changing it's oil. If it's a more complicated job than your standard Accord/Camry, then I'd agree to take it the dealer or a MINI specialist. If it's a straightforward job, then a place like Jiffy Lube should be able to do it. My impression is that it is a bit more difficult than regular cars. My MCS is under extended factory warranty, so even though I do oil changes myself in my other cars, I'll go to the dealer while this is still under warranty.

 

Most of the quickie oil-change places won't even use the type of oil that the people who designed and built the car say you need to use. Chances are that they don't even know there is a spec for the oil, nor do they care. They'll dump Quaker State or whatever in the car because they get it in bulk and it's "close enough" for most cars, at least in the short term.

A good specialist will use the right oil, the right filter, and provide you documentation that the work has been done. Unless your local dealer wants to be a jerk about it, there should be no warranty problems from using an independent mechanic.

Chances of problems are even lower if you always have the work done at the dealer, but if the dealer really really wants to be a jerk and try to get out of warranty work, he/she/it can usually find an excuse by searching hard enough. Dealer mechanics are guaranteed to have access to all of the correct parts, tools, and information. (They're not necessarily going to use those in every case, but they'll at least have access.)

Dealer or independent, either is good, as long as they know MINIs well.

 

It's not more difficult per-say but you need to use an OEM filter and 1 of the 4 approved oils that is on the market 01-LL spec oil. The material alone to do the change is ~$50; if a Jiffy lube place is doing it, I would bet they aren't using the correct, approved oil.

 

+1 Castrol european formula 0W 30 (now edge SPT or something like that is on special 7 dollars a qt 9 dollars regular cost.

add in your filter and there is your 50 bucks

 

In that case, I'd agree with you. The company I work for insures many a quickie oil change type places. They do refer to guides for specific vehicles to tell what oil and filter it uses, and will use that type oil. I'm sure they'd charge more fthan $50 for a MINI, as that price is for regular dinosaur oil. Nonetheless, for a car requiring special care, may be a good idea to let the dealer (or MINI specialist) do it.

 

The DYI for gen I and gen II are excellent and in large part on any car this is not a difficult process.

Having a gen 1 car that is my wife's and it only needs a change 1/year 95 dollars are DR is not that bad a deal. The good part about using a quality oil is that it lasts. You can get an oil analysis performed if you wish but the OEM oil (castrol 0W30) is easily good for 10-12K interval and likely 15K as stated in the OM

 

First of all, it's not hard to do. But if you're not doing it, go to a dealer.

Want a cross threaded drain bolt? Go to Jiffy Lube. Want an over torqued drain bolt, so that it's ruined next time it's removed (technically they're supposed to be replaced with the oil change, at least on the R53, but this only seems to get done if the bolt is damaged)? go to Jiffy Lube. Need to have the drain plug drilled out? You might after all this, and that (and possible replacement oil pan) is MUCH more expensive in the long run than going to the dealer.

I'd want the oil containers, and the oil filter box, that Jiffy Lube put in as proof that they put in the correct oil and filter, as per BMW, the criteria is relatively tight on what they allow. Not worth blowing your warranty over.

But I'd just learn to do it myself if I were you. It's easy.

 

I'd like to know who quoted you $150 at the dealer? Motorwerks Mini in Minnesota is $69.95 and includes tire rotation.

 

Although DIY is a great way to get to know your car, if you have decided against this, it's a very good idea to also avoid the quick change spots for the reasons listed.
Bulk/non-approved oils, cheap consolidated fit filters, careless techs & the main reason they exist.. The pitch! Your car will also need :P ...6 other fluids no matter what.

Paying the stealership is absurd as well.
Find a reputable BMW/Mini repair shop, someone who specializes. Ask what brand of oil & filters they use. If they are on the level they should gladly tell you the brands. (Lubro Moly, MANN, Mahle, Hengst, etc.)
Tell them your car is leased(even if its not) & that you must have oil brand & type along w/ filter info & milage written on your receipt. Thats not a difficult task, if they want your business they will gladly comply.
after a few oil changes you've begun to build a relationship w/ the shop. Now when you need a repair you have a sterlership alternative.

The hardest part of this is finding the repair shop you can trust.

 

Esther -- Your best bet is to locate your local MINI club and find out who they use for oil changes and non-dealer service. Most places have at least one or two very good non-dealer MINI garages that can work on your car. These places are great for normal service and for anything else once your MINI is out of warranty.

As a cost comparison I just had my oil changed on my 2011 Clubman - at our local MINI ( non-dealer ) specialist - he uses only genuine MINI parts, he buys his oil from the MINI dealer, and he is MINI factory trained -- The whole oil change including rotating the tires came to a total of $67.08 ( that includes my 10% club discount ). If I had that same service done at the dealer it would have cost me close to $150.00 ( $100.00 for the oil change and $50.00 for the rotation -- approx ). Just FYI - I change my oil every 5000 miles and this was not one of my "free" oil changes provided by MINI - for those I go to the dealer.

I hope this helps - please don't use a "quickie lube" type place - you don't have to use the dealer. Just find someone knows MINI's.

Good Luck

FYI - I use Eurotechs - http://www.eurotechsaz.com/

 

Where are you folks coming up with $150 for a dealer oil change? Mini USA Value service advertises it at $69.95

http://www.miniusa.com/#/miniValue-m

 

My concern with Jiffy Lube is that there is a check valve that sometimes gets stuck in the bottom of the oil filter and can get thrown away with the filter by someone not trained on MINIs. If this does not get put back in with the new filter, you won't have any oil pressure and they won't know why.

 

the Cooper S (Turbo or SC) models both use a cartridge style filter. There is no 'check valve' to speak of.
On canister style filters, there is an internal check valve(bypass actually), that can fail & in known to on off brand filters, like Fram, Purolator, etc.
When they failed, the filter would explode internally & swell up like a frozen beer can, usually leaking next.

 

there are go guarantees in this world

the worst screw up of an oil change I've experienced was from the dealer. They brough my car out and said "all done", paid and went out to the car, started and moved about 50 yards when the oil lite came on. Popped the hood and checked the dipstick and lo - NO OIL.

Seems the mech got distracted and forgot - and din't double check either . . . had that car for another 100,000 miles so I guess there was no damage but it just goes to show ya . . .

I've helped several GEN1 owners remove stuck drain plugs and they insist the only one who'd changed the oil previously was the dealer . . .

I've used quick lube places many many times over the years with no problem. Some r good and some r not. Most any of those places have 'better' oil than the bulk and are happy to upsell you (does it really matter if Penzoil 10w-30 comes from a quart bottle or 55 gallon drum). Some let me watch and that's one I'll use; I'm no longer real keen on garages that want to work behind closed doors.

BUT

MINI is a bit of an oldball with the old cartridge filter and all so I trust quickies for my Hondas and KIA with spin-on filters and I do my MiNi's myself once they are out of pre-paid maintenance.

 

I do my own and would not have Jiffy Lube clean my dog's kennel. They for the most part at minimum wage position and all they want is you in and out. I want to do my own so I can see what is going on with the car. I understand the people that don't have the tools and know how and that is fine but if you plan on keeping the car go to the dealer or at least someone who know something

 

This is all true. But, if the dealer screws it up, the dealer is on the hook to make it right. Jiffy Lube, not so much....

 

Click on "The Fine Print"
OP's car isn't included.
Plus -
Additional charges may apply.
Available only at participating dealers.

 

Exactly. DYI is near that.

 

Using someone other than the dealer is a gamble. That said I stand and watch so it's done correctly. My car is outside warranty so I'm not paying the dealer price. Ft. Lauderdale MINI only charges about $100 after tax, but when I can but the oil and filter for only $40 I'll do it myself. Been doing my wife's R53 for years and it's saved us $50-$100 every oil change, plus I have the oil left over to put into my old diesel Mercedes' tank...as fuel.