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Is R53 vs R56 still one-sided?

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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 04:03 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by christomapher
Well, here's my "classless... cheap... appliance...":

It all comes down to raw vs refined. But either way, they are amazing cars.
Yup, agreed!

Is that the Maytag or Whirlpool model?
Just Kidding!
 

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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 04:04 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by miniblucabrio
Here's my take on the R53 vs R56 simply put
R53= proper British sports car
R56 Americanized British sports car

either way your driving a mini which is in it's own class
Originally Posted by dinanminicooper
My tricked out manual R53 with all kinds of upgrades is the track killer.

However, the loaner R56 cabrio auto rules around town.

Chalk and cheese. Love them both, but would never make decision to mod R56 for track use. Get a cheap R53 and do it up!
^^^+1 Agreed!!^^^

I need to find an R56 WC50 for around town!!
 

Last edited by howsoonisnow1985; Jun 21, 2012 at 12:00 AM.
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 04:55 AM
  #53  
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I recently went from a 2008 R56 to a 2005 JCW R53. I like my R53 much better, it is more of a drivers car. I love the supercharger whine. The DSC is too invasive for my liking but it can be turned off easily. The only things that I like better on the R56 is it had better cup holders and it has more convenience options like hill assist, which only a 16 year old girl would need. The main thing with the R56 is it got better MPG. I averaged over 32 with the R56 and I've only got 26 with my R53 (it is a JCW however). I average my fuel mileage every time I fill up with a calculator instead of using the very generous mini calculator. Overall I am much happier with my "New" R53.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 11:23 AM
  #54  
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I love the debate over the minutia.

Coming from a Miata, those guys either loved or hated the NA/NB cars. Basically the same car pre-1998 or 1999-2005. Tons of parts interchangeability, mostly looks. Mini is the opposite, mostly mechanical changes.

Now new to the Mini world, I had no preference before I bought (I was leaning towards a R53 due to cost, but got a deal on a used R56) I still can't tell a 1st gen from a 2nd gen unless I look at the front grill or dash.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2012 | 07:18 PM
  #55  
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I'm on a hunt for my first ever European car and its going to be a mini. Have some concerns:

1. Which is more "easier to maintain" an R53 or R56 ?
2. I understand that R53 is easier to diagnose as the R56 needs to be taken to a dealer for a computer diagnose ??
Would appreciate some inputs.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 02:27 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by caprisun
I'm on a hunt for my first ever European car and its going to be a mini. Have some concerns:
1. Which is more "easier to maintain" an R53 or R56 ?
2. I understand that R53 is easier to diagnose as the R56 needs to be taken to a dealer for a computer diagnose ??
Would appreciate some inputs.
Well I would go with a "newer" R56 that's still under warranty, to avoid any concerns regarding maintenance cost and reliability issues. For further reassurance, I would also buy (extend) the MINI USA Extended Motorer Protection plan:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...rotection.html

If you can do maintenance yourself and have some mechanic's skills and a Bentley Repair Manual or access to a shiny platinum credit card for repairs then an R53 will do. 2006 is the best year. Here's more info:
http://www.motoringfile.com/mini-r50r53-buyers-guide/
 
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Old Mar 31, 2012 | 03:41 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Rusnak_322
I love the debate over the minutia.

Coming from a Miata, those guys either loved or hated the NA/NB cars. Basically the same car pre-1998 or 1999-2005. Tons of parts interchangeability, mostly looks. Mini is the opposite, mostly mechanical changes.

Coming from the Jeep world the animosity from older to newer is amazing.

When they changed from CJ's to Wrangler YJ everyone with a CJ complained about the YJ's square headlights. Then the change from YJ to TJ it was the coil springs in the TJ. Now with the JK it's the V6 engine and the availability of a four door Wrangler (soccer mom vehicle).

They are not the only ones either, because the air-cooled VW community is just as bad.

Whenever there is change some people will like it and some wont and I feel that the R53 vs R56 debate was never one sided.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 05:20 AM
  #58  
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is a 2005 R53 with 70,000 miles still considered low mileage ?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2012 | 11:12 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by caprisun
is a 2005 R53 with 70,000 miles still considered low mileage ?
It is to me, but my R53 has 178,000...

 
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 04:04 AM
  #60  
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couldn't have said it better !

right on


Originally Posted by biggripper
I'll give you my $.02. I had an 02 MCS (15%, Miltek, Alta RSB, CAI). I now have a 2011 JCW.

R53 MCS Strengths
Go kart feel
lower stance
supercharger whine
interior design
exterior design

R53 MCS Weaknesses
Poor MPG compared to R56
Cheap interior feel
big hp tuning VERY expensive (HP per dollars)

R56 Strengths
Improved hp
Improved tq
Easy to tune via ecu ($900 ALTA AP nets HUGE HP/TQ improvements - units can be had for as little as $650 used)
Upscale interior compared to R53 (nicer, more updated materials)
Effing awesome exhaust sound, even a non JCW R56 sounds better (epecially minus the resonator)

R56 Weaknesses
Less go-kart like feel in my 2011 JCW (sans SS) flavor compared to stock R53 w/SS+
No SC whine
exterior design (when compared to my R53, I still prefer the looks of the R53)


I'd say overall my R53 edges my R56 JCW out in the "fun to drive" category. I think the main thing I'm missing in my current MINI is proper suspension tuning. I think i'd be able to replicate my R53's fun factor by simply doing a RSB and lowering springs. That said, it would be hard to give up the HP/TQ that I have with my R56 JCW, especially post ALTA AP. There's no real comparison there, to get that kind of juice out of an R53 you have to go well beyond the basic pulley, intake, exhaust mods.

I'll always miss my R53 but right now, wouldn't give up my R56 JCW for one (save for a JCW GP). The only way I can see myself owning an R53 again was if I could afford to have one as a garage queen/weekend fun ride.

Good luck.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 07:05 PM
  #61  
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While I really can't compare the way the two feel, having never touched or ridden in a second gen, I can say that I still prefer the looks of the R53 over the newer generation entirely, everything from the little things like my single center-mount reverse light, to the way the front end looks. I like how mine is smaller than the newer ones and even though I'm a die hard turbo fan (got one tattooed on my chest even!), I LOVE that supercharger whine, and personally the thought of a turbo in an engine bay that small scares me too little space to dissipate all the heat that comes from a decent turbo I think
 
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Old Apr 18, 2012 | 11:04 PM
  #62  
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still making a hard decision on this as i prefer an R53 due to less issues but finding a used one @ lower mileages is a bit tricky.
R56 are more plentiful with the prices are definitely higher as the ones available are 2010-2012 editions.
Time will tell.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 12:44 AM
  #63  
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Truth is you can't get a lot of power out of an r56 no one has really figured out direct injection modding. If stock power is all you need to be happy r56 isn't bad but if not you can't beat the r53 also all versions of the r53 S and JCW came with forged internals. In the r56 the JCW was the only version that got forged internals.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 12:48 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Miniman s
Truth is you can't get a lot of power out of an r56 no one has really figured out direct injection modding. If stock power is all you need to be happy r56 isn't bad but if not you can't beat the r53 also all versions of the r53 S and JCW came with forged internals. In the r56 the JCW was the only version that got forged internals.
personally with the speed limit, the power of the R56 is enough for me.
Regarding the issue with forged internals, kindly please enlighten, does this have an advantage over the non-forged internals ?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 01:01 AM
  #65  
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Forged internals are simply more durable and are made of a tougher material. This is essential for people looking to reach high horsepower numbers. If you aren't going to race it or modify it forged internals won't matter. However most people like the piece of mind knowing they have the stronger forged parts.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 01:10 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Miniman s
Forged internals are simply more durable and are made of a tougher material. This is essential for people looking to reach high horsepower numbers. If you aren't going to race it or modify it forged internals won't matter. However most people like the piece of mind knowing they have the stronger forged parts.
in this regards, wouldn't forged internals be more durable than non-forged even more so if the engine is not to be raced or modded for racing ?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 01:18 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by caprisun
in this regards, wouldn't forged internals be more durable than non-forged even more so if the engine is not to be raced or modded for racing ?
In theory yes however there is no solid data to prove it. Either way the best thing to do with either to get all maintenance done on time. The "I will keep an eye on it" attitude can cost you I have seen $200 oil leak repairs turn into $1000 new turbo swaps because of it and that's if your lucky to have a good mechanic.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 01:22 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Miniman s
In theory yes however there is no solid data to prove it. Either way the best thing to do with either to get all maintenance done on time. The "I will keep an eye on it" attitude can cost you I have seen $200 oil leak repairs turn into $1000 new turbo swaps because of it and that's if your lucky to have a good mechanic.
thanks for the clarifications.
When you say, get all the maintenance done on time , would you mean something like:

5,000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first-- if 6 months comes first and the engine clocked only 2,000 miles, do the maintenance anyways ?
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 01:29 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by caprisun
thanks for the clarifications.
When you say, get all the maintenance done on time , would you mean something like:

5,000 miles or 6 months whichever comes first-- if 6 months comes first and the engine clocked only 2,000 miles, do the maintenance anyways ?
With full synthetic you go by mileage and 7500 is the right number there. Synthetic doesn't break down the additives in synthetic do. So unless you put your Mini in storage for a couple of years time is not a factor. Just don't ignore issues that come up and hopefully you have an honest mechanic who will be honest with you there.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 01:43 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Miniman s
With full synthetic you go by mileage and 7500 is the right number there. Synthetic doesn't break down the additives in synthetic do. So unless you put your Mini in storage for a couple of years time is not a factor. Just don't ignore issues that come up and hopefully you have an honest mechanic who will be honest with you there.

sorry to bother you with theories or scenarios:

ok, lets go with 7500 miles. what if because of the short distances we travel, we can only travel 3,000 miles in a years time, mostly stop and go traffic.
Based on estimates, 7500 miles would take me 2 years to reach. With this scenario, would it be "safer" to change oil every 3000 miles or 1 year whichever comes first ? yes, syntethic oil is what i plan to use.

Thanks!!
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 01:57 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by caprisun
sorry to bother you with theories or scenarios:

ok, lets go with 7500 miles. what if because of the short distances we travel, we can only travel 3,000 miles in a years time, mostly stop and go traffic.
Based on estimates, 7500 miles would take me 2 years to reach. With this scenario, would it be "safer" to change oil every 3000 miles or 1 year whichever comes first ? yes, syntethic oil is what i plan to use.

Thanks!!
There is no solid data here either but since the shelf life of most of the additives in the oil are 5 years. Going 2 years should be fine but if you do drive like this 5000 mile intervals can be used for peace of mind.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 02:00 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Miniman s
There is no solid data here either but since the shelf life of most of the additives in the oil are 5 years. Going 2 years should be fine but if you do drive like this 5000 mile intervals can be used for peace of mind.
thanks for the info and advice.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 06:26 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by caprisun
sorry to bother you with theories or scenarios:

ok, lets go with 7500 miles. what if because of the short distances we travel, we can only travel 3,000 miles in a years time, mostly stop and go traffic.
Based on estimates, 7500 miles would take me 2 years to reach. With this scenario, would it be "safer" to change oil every 3000 miles or 1 year whichever comes first ? yes, syntethic oil is what i plan to use.

Thanks!!
Just to jump in late to the conversation,
If you are only running that few miles each year the time is less of an issue than the contaminates and water that will be in the oil. If you are only driving short distances you will not be burning off the water vapor and your oil is compromised. However, if the 3,000 miles includes regular trips of 15 miles or more you have an even different story.
So, short trips would be the factor that would cause you to need to change the oil more often, not really the time and aging of the oil.
 
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 07:42 AM
  #74  
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This thread is like talking politics & religion!

 
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Old Jan 11, 2015 | 12:24 PM
  #75  
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What is driving me here, is the R56 reliability. I love the 34 MPG, but I hate the nervous oil level check EVERY. SINGLE. FILL-UP. I also just had the timing chain replaced ($1500) and I don't think I can swallow that again. I too think the R53's lines are better with it looking smaller. but I prefer turbos over superchargers. I am going to test drive a 06 JCW and we will see.
 
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