Break-in... non-synthetic oil?
Break-in... non-synthetic oil?
Does anyone here actually advocate using non-synthetic oil for the break-in process?
I ask because I'm about to pick up my new MCS today
, and I came across this site while reading NAM:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
It says:
-------------
Q: What's the third most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !!
Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
Why do the manufacturers recommend waiting until 600 miles to
flush out all the loose metal ???
This is a good question ...
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!
Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.
----------
I honestly don't know if I'd even trust a local Jiffy Lube or something similar with my new baby, and I lack the tools and time (very busy week) to feel comfortable learning to change oil on my own.
So, I'd like to hear the ideas of our resident experts.
I ask because I'm about to pick up my new MCS today
, and I came across this site while reading NAM:http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
It says:
-------------
Q: What's the third most common cause of engine problems ???
A: Not changing the oil soon enough after the engine is first run !!
Change Your Oil Right Away !!
The best thing you can do for your engine is to change your oil and filter after the first 20 miles. Most of the wearing in process happens immediately, creating a lot of metal in the oil. Plus, the amount of leftover machining chips and other crud left behind in the manufacturing process is simply amazing !! You want to flush that stuff out before it gets recycled and embedded in the transmission gears, and oil pump etc...
Why do the manufacturers recommend waiting until 600 miles to
flush out all the loose metal ???
This is a good question ...
3 more words on break- in:
NO SYNTHETIC OIL !!
Use Valvoline, Halvoline, or similar 10 w 40 Petroleum Car Oil for at least
2 full days of hard racing or 1,500 miles of street riding / driving.
After that use your favorite brand of oil.
----------
I honestly don't know if I'd even trust a local Jiffy Lube or something similar with my new baby, and I lack the tools and time (very busy week) to feel comfortable learning to change oil on my own.
So, I'd like to hear the ideas of our resident experts.
As a general, historical procedure, straight mineral oil was usually used for 'break-in' , however, today there are many (most) Automotive, Aircraft and Marine Engines that require Synthetic or HD oils to be used.
A lot of NAM members do perform an 'early' oil change for 'peace of mind', but be sure to use MINI (Warranty) recommended Oil and Filter.
I changed mine at 1250 miles and other than a smell of gasoline from prior to Ring Seating, the drained oil was very clean and had very little 'metal' in it or the filter.
No need to abuse your new MINI for Ring Seating, but avoid driving for fuel economy, as you need to vary speed and use at least 75% throttle briefly and often at RPM range of 2500-4500, not when she's cold and avoid too long, to prevent heat damage.
R56 MINI's are super easy to perform oil/filter change, but search NAM to get the needed information (avoid draining transmission instead of oil sump) and I would NEVER use JiffyLube or any other 'Quick-Change' outfit.
DIY is best, but if your MINI Dealer is nearby, they should charge less than $100; if it's a trip to MINI, you could research and locate a local "MINI Capable" service Garage to use.
A lot of NAM members do perform an 'early' oil change for 'peace of mind', but be sure to use MINI (Warranty) recommended Oil and Filter.
I changed mine at 1250 miles and other than a smell of gasoline from prior to Ring Seating, the drained oil was very clean and had very little 'metal' in it or the filter.
No need to abuse your new MINI for Ring Seating, but avoid driving for fuel economy, as you need to vary speed and use at least 75% throttle briefly and often at RPM range of 2500-4500, not when she's cold and avoid too long, to prevent heat damage.
R56 MINI's are super easy to perform oil/filter change, but search NAM to get the needed information (avoid draining transmission instead of oil sump) and I would NEVER use JiffyLube or any other 'Quick-Change' outfit.
DIY is best, but if your MINI Dealer is nearby, they should charge less than $100; if it's a trip to MINI, you could research and locate a local "MINI Capable" service Garage to use.
Here's the thing. Who do you trust to know more about how the engine in a MINI should be cared for. A guy on a website that looks like it's from 1998, or these guys: http://www.miniusa.com
MINI gives you a specific regimen for break in, and also mention what oils should be put in your engine. They back this by giving you a four year warranty. Is the "break in secrets" guy going to warranty your engine if your hard runs with non-synthetic does some damage to it?
But it's all up to you. Me, I'll stick with MINI's recommendations (except for oil change intervals
). Good luck!
MINI gives you a specific regimen for break in, and also mention what oils should be put in your engine. They back this by giving you a four year warranty. Is the "break in secrets" guy going to warranty your engine if your hard runs with non-synthetic does some damage to it?
But it's all up to you. Me, I'll stick with MINI's recommendations (except for oil change intervals
). Good luck!
Has anyone used the break in oil additive such as this one?
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_m...1&categoryID=1
I have not tried it.
http://www.redlineoil.com/products_m...1&categoryID=1
I have not tried it.
Redline break in oil not needed in the Mini - as its ad states its mainly for older engine with flat tappet camshafts that need the extra zinc and phosphorus for the proper break in for the cam and lifters. The Mini and most new engines use roller lifters so do not have this requirement. Would never run a mineral oil in a turbo engine as it will coke up the turbo as it cannot take the heat like synthetic oil can and thats why Mini says only run synthetic oil in their engines. Krazy
That's pretty much what I was hoping to hear! After reading a couple of threads and that website (internet information =
) I had some doubts, but this makes the most sense for me.
I'll keep with the synthetic and avoid the worry of voiding my warranty. It'll also keep my life simple for the time being. An early oil change will probably be in the works, after 1000-1500 miles or so.
As for avoiding driving for fuel economy... habits are hard to break, but I think that may be a problem of the past. The MINI kind of makes me want to drive a wee less economically.
Thank you all for your responses.
) I had some doubts, but this makes the most sense for me.I'll keep with the synthetic and avoid the worry of voiding my warranty. It'll also keep my life simple for the time being. An early oil change will probably be in the works, after 1000-1500 miles or so.
As for avoiding driving for fuel economy... habits are hard to break, but I think that may be a problem of the past. The MINI kind of makes me want to drive a wee less economically.
Thank you all for your responses.
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