How would you spend $800 on your MINI?
Ireland Engineering Fixed Front camber plates: $190
Texas Speedwerks Springs: $200
Lower rear control arms $200
Install $120
Good alignment w/ slightly more agressive specs than stock: $90
If you can get the install for free, put the extra $120 towards a DE event w/ a good instructor.
Texas Speedwerks Springs: $200
Lower rear control arms $200
Install $120
Good alignment w/ slightly more agressive specs than stock: $90
If you can get the install for free, put the extra $120 towards a DE event w/ a good instructor.
I'm on my 2nd windshield. But I do have 56k on my 2006. Highway miles...
I have some graphics and some custom detail work that I want to have done on Viola to "meify" her a bit more. They're all relatively inexpensive and I think they would all total about 800$ put together.
If I were pipe dreaming, and the expense of 800$ did not have to make sense to my spouse, for 800$ not including installation... I'd probably upgrade the wheels to the 16" cross spokes. The 5 star blaster wheels are pretty, but now that I've seen the cross spokes on a few cars, I would definitely do these wheels.
If I were pipe dreaming, and the expense of 800$ did not have to make sense to my spouse, for 800$ not including installation... I'd probably upgrade the wheels to the 16" cross spokes. The 5 star blaster wheels are pretty, but now that I've seen the cross spokes on a few cars, I would definitely do these wheels.
"better tires, then a driving school"
as the originator of that comment, I can see the point of the suggestion to do those in reverse order... there are some driving school weekends (BMW CCA in my experience) that would suggest the same thing...
meaning, get out on the track with a low-power "everyday" sort of car to begin with... no hot mods, no hot tires, brakes, etc.... the point being that you can learn a lot more about all the numerous aspects of car control by doing it in a car that isn't so well set-up for track performance... i.e. in a car that wasn't designed to do all of those things well, and you'll really learn what a car feels like as it shows you how it oversteers, understeers, brakes, apexes, etc..... go out and learn about oversteer, understeer, braking, apexing, etc. in something that you can really feel it in.
10 years or so back, one of the biggest problems at BMW CCA driving schools was that a lot of relatively inexperienced drivers were showing up with some really hot M3s... cars that were so well-tuned and so "ready" for the track... and in the hands of the inexperienced they were so forgiving that they gave these young drivers a sense of capability that wasn't deserved... those M3s would forgive so many mistakes up to a point, then all of a sudden you could find yourself in over your head and it was too late.... too many drivers without "at-speed" experience in cars that were capable of much more than the driver was....
so, your point is well-taken...
when I wrote it, I didn't have strong feelings about which one should come first, better tires or a driving school (or two or three).... more, I just meant they are both good ideas and tires may be something that can be acquired sooner than a driving school.
as the originator of that comment, I can see the point of the suggestion to do those in reverse order... there are some driving school weekends (BMW CCA in my experience) that would suggest the same thing...
meaning, get out on the track with a low-power "everyday" sort of car to begin with... no hot mods, no hot tires, brakes, etc.... the point being that you can learn a lot more about all the numerous aspects of car control by doing it in a car that isn't so well set-up for track performance... i.e. in a car that wasn't designed to do all of those things well, and you'll really learn what a car feels like as it shows you how it oversteers, understeers, brakes, apexes, etc..... go out and learn about oversteer, understeer, braking, apexing, etc. in something that you can really feel it in.
10 years or so back, one of the biggest problems at BMW CCA driving schools was that a lot of relatively inexperienced drivers were showing up with some really hot M3s... cars that were so well-tuned and so "ready" for the track... and in the hands of the inexperienced they were so forgiving that they gave these young drivers a sense of capability that wasn't deserved... those M3s would forgive so many mistakes up to a point, then all of a sudden you could find yourself in over your head and it was too late.... too many drivers without "at-speed" experience in cars that were capable of much more than the driver was....
so, your point is well-taken...
when I wrote it, I didn't have strong feelings about which one should come first, better tires or a driving school (or two or three).... more, I just meant they are both good ideas and tires may be something that can be acquired sooner than a driving school.
I did my spring install my self, and honestly it is vey simple for you guys talkng about how much installation was. the whole thing took me 2 hours tops with one freind. U can use basic tools, nothing special. Granted i had a guy that new cars like i did, but even if its ur first time under a car its pretty straight forward. SO just so you know if ur going to pay 625 for an install, bring it to me and ill do it for 200 hhaha
speaker upgrade ($300)
GPS, lightly used ($100)
subwoofer that goes under the seat (i forget $200)
possibly amp ($100)
car care www.malms.com ($150)
ralley lights ($300 but i see you have already)
GPS, lightly used ($100)
subwoofer that goes under the seat (i forget $200)
possibly amp ($100)
car care www.malms.com ($150)
ralley lights ($300 but i see you have already)
when I wrote it, I didn't have strong feelings about which one should come first, better tires or a driving school (or two or three).... more, I just meant they are both good ideas and tires may be something that can be acquired sooner than a driving school.
I've also heard great things about REAR strutbrace really making a difference, so I'd go Driving School (unless you've got that, then go for another session after the next round of mods), REAR strut brace & a used real performance exhaust (there was a JCW on here for ~400 not too long ago). The one-ball is great, don't get me wrong, but others are more throaty (which I like).



