just like i said, low dust and street.

 

So, any opinions of the Hawk ceramics? They definitely advertise low dust, is that all they are good for?
Good for track?
Good for perf street?
Or just good for Grandma going to the grocery?

 

For track usage rotors are consumables, no matter what track pad you use you will more than likely crack the rotor before you get to the min service thickness (just stay away from anything cross-drilled they're garbage no matter who made them). I've experienced cracked rotors on cheap autozone and fancy OE, German made rotors, as well as using carbotech, hawk and Performance friction pads (I get about 6-8 days on pads and around 10 or so on rotors for my E30). Rotors are cheap (relative to pads), keep an eye on them and bring spare rotors, if you can get a fingernail in the crack, or the crack goes to the edge replace them...

 

just low dust. if you get to the level of a ceramic performance pad your not gonna be in a MINI with stock calipers. as a side note. MINI/BMW makes really really good brake pads no need to upgrade from them unless your going to the track and then remember there really is no such thing as a combo track/street pad.

 

I have run the carbotech XP10, porterfield R4E & R4 pads on my rally cars with both good and parts store rotors ... ALL have got those micro cracks after each rally...More so with the carbotech XP10 pads... Then again the XP10 have way more bite and power than the R4s do...

LP

 

If you guys want to see cracked rotors go talk to the Corvette racers.

 

Lucky for them, Corvette rotors cost $37 at NAPA. The S2000 guys also crack their rotors on a regular basis.

FWIW, the drilled OEM/Zimmerman rotors on my Boxster S last about 10-15 track days before cracking enough to need replacement. I think it's because I use dedicated track pads (Pagid Black), have proper cooling and the 40/60 weight distribution balances the braking effort better. In any case, I don't worry about hairline cracks until they go all the way from the hole to the outer edge of the rotor or between holes. My current set did alright until running Buttonwillow #18 CW without the bypass=long straight after coming out of Riverside at 105 mph. Was doing 137 mph in the straight then braking hard for a 2nd gear turn.