I'm trying to do my first oil change and finding it very difficult to put jack stands under the front jack pads. I tried jacking up the car from the rear jack pad but because of the weight distribution, the rear of the car is so dangerously high up until the front jack pad is high enough for the jack stand (even at the lowest setting).

So I look for the frame so that I can jack up closer to the front jack pad, but there isn't any frame to be seen because it's all covered up by plastic. I guess to assist with aerodynamics.

Lastly, my jack stand "slot" (http://www.northerntool.com/images/p.../155719_lg.jpg) for the pad to rest on is very wide and the ends stick up a bit higher, so when the car rests on it, the higher part pushes up the plastic around the jack pad... Probably doesn't make sense, but I'm just venting...

Why is it so difficult... The regular Cooper doesn't have the plastic covering: http://turn17.com/wp-content/uploads...ilChange07.jpg

 

http://www.blimeycabrio.com/?m=200704

Scroll down Blimey's blog to the April 28th entry "How a stud lifts a MINI". I went to the trouble of bolting a length of 1" angle iron to the board to add stiffness so it distributes the pressure more evenly along the lower panel. I use it often when the need arises.
Spend some time browsing thru his blog some time. He's got lots of neat stuff in there.

 

Ok, I'll ask the obvious. Is the underbody layout the same on the newer R55/56 cars? I've been lifting mine one corner at a time, which is a pain.

 

Can't speak to the Gen 2 body construction with much confidence. There should be a weld seam from wheel well to wheel well about 4 or 5 inches in. If it is, that is what you want to push the board up against. The purpose of the 2X4 is of course to distribute the weight except the lumber will flex. That is why I added the angle iron, it helps a little. I think if you positiond it anywhere between the normal jack points, you should be OK.

 

There are a couple of other official jacking points under the front sub frame. See: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3630862

 

I don't bother with using stands any longer for an oil change. I just use a pair of those plastic ramps from the parts store.

Works great. Yes, there is a little rub on the bottom side of the bumper cover but it isn't a show car.

 

I had the same questions and found an area that worked great. This link was from an above post but it was the one that helped me.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...ml#post3630862

I used a small 2x4 and centered it along the this area.


What I found is that I could actually get under the car without doing anything. As long as you have a low profile drain pan. I will say it is not as easy but it can be done.

 

I would love to use that frame area but there's a large piece of plastic covering that area.

 

Although it takes a bit longer you can remove the plastic underpanelling and get to that part. That's exactly what I do and it works perfectly. I've read of others using the 2x4 method spanning between the two factory jack points but I'm not trying that with the way the side skirts sit so low.

If you have a little extra time, remove the panels and the above areas are perfect.

 

Here's what I did. Jack up front jack pad. Placed a few pieces of 2x10 lumber. Then release floor jack. Jack up rear jack pad. Placed a jack stand under the front jack pad.