Factory JCW Talk (2009+) Discussion of the factory-built 2nd Gen JCW MINI Cooper S, and all unique aspects of this trim.

Power loss after reflash/reprogram?

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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 11:26 AM
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Power loss after reflash/reprogram?

So first of all I didnt know where to post this or quite how to search for it. I remember seeing something related to this, but have no idea where after reading 17,954 threads here.

I started having problems with my windows on my JCW. AT first the dipper stopped working. Then the auto up stopped working. I knew this was an issue and called the dealer. "No problem, bring it in and we have an update for the ECU that will fix it." They say. So I bring it in and the update is actually a complete ECU update that takes almost 3hrs. I ask specifically if this will effect engine performance because I remember reading about it here. The tech said that if anything it would improve it.

Well my windows work fine. BUT my scangauge wont show anything better than 13-14lbs of boost where there was previously 16-18lbs. Also, my kickass exhaust sound is gone. No more backpressure "pops" and "burbles".

I spoke with the dealer and hes checking with the techs. Unfortunately I doubt there is a cure. Once updated it cant go back.

Anybody with any input besides "That sucks"?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 01:10 PM
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From: 40°-55'-44" N / 73°-24'-07" W [on LI]
I had a the window problem. I also had a problem where when I'd be coming to a stop in neutral, my engine rpm would run up to 2K for a few seconds. So I asked for a re-flash with the base program. Now, I don't know if that's what I got or whether I got an updated program, because my window problem got fixed too. But my "seat-of-the-pants" dyno doesn't think I had any degradation of performance after the re-flash. I never did run a scanner on it however to be able to confirm boost quantitatively.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2009 | 10:22 PM
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Sounds like you got an S program and not the JCW... of course this is a just a "swag" but it fits
 
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 06:28 AM
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I would certainly make them reflash it, and double check to make sure it is the right one! Lots of bad stuff can happen when you are reflashing anything, but it is most likely human error. See if it gets better after a second try.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2009 | 09:42 AM
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I asked if it could have been reprogrammed as an "S" and they said they dont pick the program. They input the VIN and the computer does the rest. I also asked if there could be some other cause for loss of boost like the BOV going bad and it just being coincidence. They replied that that would definately throw a CEL.

They called me back today and said there was nothing they can do, and they will notify me if another update for my car comes out. Im due for a service in 3k +/- miles and will ask them to reflash at that time if it hasnt corrected itself.

I also emailed corporate and am awaiting there response. I mean, without my scangauge my "butt dyno" probably wouldnt even notice the loss in boost, but the aggressive exhaust tones were one of the major selling points for me. I was able to make the car backfire at will. Now thats all gone. Now it just sounds like any other leaf blower on crack.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 10:04 AM
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Finally got a response from both the dealer and corporate. They didnt respond until I filled out the online survey regarding my service.

They opened a PUMA case. They called me today and said the have 3 other cars with the same problem, one in Cali and the other two in England. They are working on a fix for the one in Cali and will then apply that fix to the other cars, including mine. They dont know when that will be though.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 12:49 PM
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I had the window problem, but when my car was reflashed, I didn't perceive any change in torque or horsepower. I never had it dynoed though. My car never really popped or burbled since new. I asked if they could make it do that when I had my car reflashed and they said no. My car definately acts like a JCW as I have driven both the S and the JCW... but I don't know for sure if I still have high boost.
 

Last edited by spinned; Feb 16, 2010 at 11:30 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 12:57 PM
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Thanks for the update, bigcat. I have a JCW on order, and I would hate to think a reflash to fix some other problem would affect the character of the engine!
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 08:32 AM
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Funny I have the same exact story for my 2009 JCW. Stock and new the car was hitting 20PSI on the scangauge; and now after ECU flash due to window roll-down problems I cant get anything higher than 17PSI. I definately notice the difference.

I decided to just get through the winter on the lower boost and then go with something better than dealer tunes by spring.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 10:57 AM
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why is everyone having the window issue, which results in a reflash?

I'm gonna stop using my windows
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by DDoggJCW
why is everyone having the window issue, which results in a reflash?

I'm gonna stop using my windows
Yes, I did mine about 7 months ago.

The Tech told me to put both windows down all the way every two weeks or so. This should prevent the problems from happening again. Seems like the computer looses track of the position of the windows if you do not bring it down all the way.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 05:41 PM
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You can also try an initial window reset before you have to re-flash. You roll the window down and hold the down toggle for 15 seconds before you release it. Then roll the window up while holding the toggle up for 15 seconds. This gives the up and down parameters to the OBC.

If that doesn't work then you need to get the dealer to reflash the OBC to get the window dipper to work correctly.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 06:01 PM
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Interestingly enough I was looking at my correctly set Scangauge today and boost showed about 17 which is the highest I have ever seen it go. I usually see 10 or 12. Maybe I do not drive the car hard enough?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2010 | 06:02 PM
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Hi. I have an auto 08 mcs jcw engine tunning kit and i had a software update last week for fitting of the six stacker and ended up with this very issue myself. Dealer was contacted and now i await them to get back to me after they contacted BMW Germany.

On Mini mania this issue is again being discussed so it would appear to be related to the latest program released by BMW world wide. But I was told the program is set by the vehicle Vin number and each of the continents are a different sequence.

[FONT='Times New Roman']Not sure if its just me being dumb but I have tried without success to open the menu to change the indictor flash times. Upon reprogramming it defaulted back to one and everything I have tried since to return it to the three setting has failed. Has anyone else had this? [/FONT]
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by onefish2
Interestingly enough I was looking at my correctly set Scangauge today and boost showed about 17 which is the highest I have ever seen it go. I usually see 10 or 12. Maybe I do not drive the car hard enough?

I was getting 17-18lbs with my the pedal floored in 2nd or 3rd gear. It should top out around 5-6k RPM I believe. Mine tops out around 13.5lbs now, a drop of 3.5-4lbs. It doesnt sound like a lot but of you look at it as a percentage its over 20% loss in boost.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 09:00 AM
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I have also heard (after i went to the dealer) that you can reset the ecu and possibly the windows by disconnecting the battery for an hour or so. holding the button when down and then when up didnt fix anything for me.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 04:45 PM
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My passenger window was having the problem where auto-up would stop at the top and roll all the way back down. Dealer said it was something to do with the 'finger' sensor circuitry sensitivity which is changed with the reflash. The reflashed worked for the window, but changed everything in the car along the way. I had to setup my custom stuff with the turn signal button and lost all my radio preset; not to mention about 10-15% less boost.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bigcat68
I have also heard (after i went to the dealer) that you can reset the ecu and possibly the windows by disconnecting the battery for an hour or so. holding the button when down and then when up didnt fix anything for me.
I am having the dippping problem as well. At this point I am going to try disconnecting the battery. I would be very upset if I lost power from an ECU reflash just to fix the window...... That makes a bad situation worse in my opinion.....
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by unclemeat
My passenger window was having the problem where auto-up would stop at the top and roll all the way back down. Dealer said it was something to do with the 'finger' sensor circuitry sensitivity which is changed with the reflash. The reflashed worked for the window, but changed everything in the car along the way. I had to setup my custom stuff with the turn signal button and lost all my radio preset; not to mention about 10-15% less boost.

I cannot seem to find the turn signal set to change. But going through the menu for the computer i have now got a few new ones One is call IP Test where all the dash gauges and lights come on for a test. Does anyony else have that. I have a turbo boost check booked with the dealer Monday but from what everyone is saying its going to be no surprise when they tell me the results.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 08:50 PM
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I joined a thread on this at Mini Mania but have not heard back. One guy there waas getting his car looked at for the same power loss situation after a computer reflash.

Clearly something is up with the latest software update as this is universal across the world because each of our countries have a different Vin NUMBER Setup. The cars VIN is inserted to start the download and this powerloss problem is resultant
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 08:54 PM
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Sorry the thread is on Mini Torque subject is R56 MSC JCW Stage 1 down on power (not limp mode)
 
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Stevo
I cannot seem to find the turn signal set to change. But going through the menu for the computer i have now got a few new ones One is call IP Test where all the dash gauges and lights come on for a test. Does anyony else have that.
Everyone can do that test by pressing and holding both tach buttons. Show's IP production date,VIN and software version.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 12:21 AM
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From: Port Stephens Aust
Originally Posted by OXYBLUECOOP
Everyone can do that test by pressing and holding both tach buttons. Show's IP production date,VIN and software version.
Ok thanks for that. Only i don't need to hold both tach buttons just the right and i have only noticed it since the software update. As i said not sure if its anything its just something i now notice and put it out there for comment
 
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Old Feb 14, 2010 | 12:08 AM
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I just had my JCW in for service to replace the timing chain tensioner. They reprogrammed the ECU at the same time. I noticed the popping/burbling sound from the exhaust is gone. The power seems to be smoother, but the top end seems to have decreased a bit.

Do you guys know if they can revert back to the old software? I didn't request them to update the software and I had no problems with my windows before.
 
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Old Feb 16, 2010 | 06:57 AM
  #25  
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Note: it makes no sense that this would be tied to the window problem. If it exists, it would be related to the ECU flashing, thus everyone who upgrades firmware would have it happen. Any verification from Mini?
 
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