F60 :: Countryman Talk (2016-2023) F60 Countryman discussion

F60 F60 Front Bumper Removal

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Old 01-25-2018, 09:58 AM
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F60 Front Bumper Removal

Hey friends!

I'm looking at installing Driving Lights on my F60 and the first step is removing the front bumper. Before I waste a few hours yanking on the bumper, can anyone point me in the direction instructions for the bumper removal process?

Thanks in advance!
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 01:48 PM
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I am also looking to do the same thing , Hopefully there might be a shortcut you can do by just removing the upper grill, without removing the whole Bumper???? Has any one just removed the upper grill?
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Renman333
I am also looking to do the same thing , Hopefully there might be a shortcut you can do by just removing the upper grill, without removing the whole Bumper???? Has any one just removed the upper grill?
I just had the upper grill removed. I have the driving light installation guide and it’s not really doable without taking the whole bumper off.
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 03:07 PM
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https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...epair-manuals/

The disclaimer is that this is not from BMW or MINI. While I have found the instructions to be accurate for the work I have done, use or not based on your own decision....
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Jwanck11
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...epair-manuals/

The disclaimer is that this is not from BMW or MINI. While I have found the instructions to be accurate for the work I have done, use or not based on your own decision....
Awesome! Thanks!!
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Snurfer
I just had the upper grill removed. I have the driving light installation guide and it’s not really doable without taking the whole bumper off.
What parts/areas did you not have access to by just removing the grill? .How hard was it to remove just the grill? I found this for removing the bumper. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...per/1VnYxNZ0MD
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 03:47 PM
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It’s pretty straightforward to remove the grill. Several torx screws along the top. The bottom is held in place with some horrible clips. I put a bunch of painters tape on the bumper and used a set of clip removal tools to get at the clips. The first one is the hardest, but it gets easier after that. I think if you pull hard enough they will release based on what others have said.
Originally Posted by Renman333
What parts/areas did you not have access to by just removing the grill? .How hard was it to remove just the grill? I found this for removing the bumper. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...per/1VnYxNZ0MD
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 03:48 PM
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It’s pretty straightforward to remove the grill. Several torx screws along the top. The bottom is held in place with some horrible clips. I put a bunch of painters tape on the bumper and used a set of clip removal tools to get at the clips. The first one is the hardest, but it gets easier after that. I think if you pull hard enough they will release based on what others have said.
[QUOTE=Renman333;4362907]What parts/areas did you not have access to by just removing the grill? .How hard was it to remove just the grill? I found this for removing the bumper. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...per/1VnYxNZ0MD
 
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Old 01-25-2018, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Renman333
What parts/areas did you not have access to by just removing the grill? .How hard was it to remove just the grill? I found this for removing the bumper. https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...per/1VnYxNZ0MD
Here’s the installation guide. You need to cut a portion off the bumper or the area beneath the bumper and drill into the frame to insert rivets. https://www.minimania.com/pdfile/OE_Driving_Lights.pdf
 
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Old 01-26-2018, 06:45 AM
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Wow - this install looks to be quite the pain in the ****. That said, I think I am going to tackle it.

Can you let me know where you got the kit?

Thanks!
 
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Old 01-27-2018, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Jwanck11
Wow - this install looks to be quite the pain in the ****. That said, I think I am going to tackle it.

Can you let me know where you got the kit?

Thanks!
I negotiated the lights into my closing. Got a good discount. Let me know if you need the part numbers for the extra bits. (Switch, etc)
 
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Old 01-29-2018, 08:03 AM
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Good News !! You can install without removing Bumper. I just did it!!. All you need to remove is the upper grill and the plastic radiator shroud thingy that the Grill bolts through. Remove all the Torx Screws on the grill (don't forget the 2 at the outermost corners of the grill) and remove the radiator shroud with 4 more Torx Srews. ( you also have to remove the 3 round hood adjusters that go through that radiator shroud , if that is what they are called , very easy just pull them up and out ) This allows you to slightly pull the grill out so you have access to the 6 clips holding the bottom of the grill to the bumper. You can see them at the bottom of the grill if you look between the grill and radiator from the top.They are the bumper color . In my case Blue,All I did to release them was slide a yard stick ( meter stick in Canada Hah) in between the grill and radiator and push down on the tabs and pull out to release the grill one clip at a time, Starting from one side to the other. Surprisingly quite easy. This gives all the access you need to install the brackets . Now referring to the driving lights installation instructions , cutting the plastic squares out is the hardest part. I used a dremel. Then followed the instructions on the bracket installation. I really do not understand why you have to remove the bumper for this?? I had that grill out in less than 10 minutes, and it took me a little over a hour to finish the bracket install. I now need to wire it all. I should of snapped some pictures but It is so easy to do .I didn't think it was necessary.
Cheers
 
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Old 01-29-2018, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Renman333
Good News !! You can install without removing Bumper. I just did it!!. All you need to remove is the upper grill and the plastic radiator shroud thingy that the Grill bolts through. Remove all the Torx Screws on the grill (don't forget the 2 at the outermost corners of the grill) and remove the radiator shroud with 4 more Torx Srews. ( you also have to remove the 3 round hood adjusters that go through that radiator shroud , if that is what they are called , very easy just pull them up and out ) This allows you to slightly pull the grill out so you have access to the 6 clips holding the bottom of the grill to the bumper. You can see them at the bottom of the grill if you look between the grill and radiator from the top.They are the bumper color . In my case Blue,All I did to release them was slide a yard stick ( meter stick in Canada Hah) in between the grill and radiator and push down on the tabs and pull out to release the grill one clip at a time, Starting from one side to the other. Surprisingly quite easy. This gives all the access you need to install the brackets . Now referring to the driving lights installation instructions , cutting the plastic squares out is the hardest part. I used a dremel. Then followed the instructions on the bracket installation. I really do not understand why you have to remove the bumper for this?? I had that grill out in less than 10 minutes, and it took me a little over a hour to finish the bracket install. I now need to wire it all. I should of snapped some pictures but It is so easy to do .I didn't think it was necessary.
Cheers
My man! Great news! Did you find it difficult to take the measurements to drill the holes in the frame with the bumper in place? Did you use a measuring tape or some other tool?

Did you install any of the wiring yet? I'm planning on at least putting the lead wires from the lights over to the side so I can pick up where I left off without needing to take off the grill again.
 
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Old 01-29-2018, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Snurfer
My man! Great news! Did you find it difficult to take the measurements to drill the holes in the frame with the bumper in place? Did you use a measuring tape or some other tool?

Did you install any of the wiring yet? I'm planning on at least putting the lead wires from the lights over to the side so I can pick up where I left off without needing to take off the grill again.
I used calipers to measure and a piece of string cut too length for the cross member portion. Cutting the plastic measurement gives you extra space any way. The plastic just needs to be cut at the sides and along the back squared edge. Like I mentioned before, I used a dremel with a cut saw bit on it . The front of the plastic morphs into a rubber type material which travels under the bumper. But all you need to do is cut that rubber with a utility knife about a 1/4" from the plastic edge that changes to rubber, which is about a 1/4" under the bumper. Just flex the bumper up a bit. This will all make sense one you see it. And for the holes to drill into the very thin Aluminum, I used a caliper and a center punch and used a 11/32 drill ( no such thing as a 9.1 mm drill) . .Just make sure the hole is a tad bit smaller that the rivet nut diameter .Flex the bumper tab out of the way for one of the holes also. I don't quite understand why they would use the rivets nuts they supplied to hammer into this very thin aluminum. I am not holding my breath that these will last the test of time without pulling straight out. One again you will see when you get there.
My only suggestion (if you have a Cooper S Grill ) would be to mount these holes 3mm less than specs. eg. It says 128mm and then 60mm from. I would go 125mm and 60 mm from. Why? Because the brackets are rubbing against the grill edge of the hole they go through. Moving them 3mm will eliminate this. No biggie if you don't, as I just had to use some gentle persuasion to get the grill back on. I have yet to tackle the wiring .
All in all not too difficult ,just take your time.
 

Last edited by Renman333; 01-30-2018 at 09:04 AM.
  #15  
Old 02-20-2018, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Renman333
I used calipers to measure and a piece of string cut too length for the cross member portion. Cutting the plastic measurement gives you extra space any way. The plastic just needs to be cut at the sides and along the back squared edge. Like I mentioned before, I used a dremel with a cut saw bit on it . The front of the plastic morphs into a rubber type material which travels under the bumper. But all you need to do is cut that rubber with a utility knife about a 1/4" from the plastic edge that changes to rubber, which is about a 1/4" under the bumper. Just flex the bumper up a bit. This will all make sense one you see it. And for the holes to drill into the very thin Aluminum, I used a caliper and a center punch and used a 11/32 drill ( no such thing as a 9.1 mm drill) . .Just make sure the hole is a tad bit smaller that the rivet nut diameter .Flex the bumper tab out of the way for one of the holes also. I don't quite understand why they would use the rivets nuts they supplied to hammer into this very thin aluminum. I am not holding my breath that these will last the test of time without pulling straight out. One again you will see when you get there.
My only suggestion (if you have a Cooper S Grill ) would be to mount these holes 3mm less than specs. eg. It says 128mm and then 60mm from. I would go 125mm and 60 mm from. Why? Because the brackets are rubbing against the grill edge of the hole they go through. Moving them 3mm will eliminate this. No biggie if you don't, as I just had to use some gentle persuasion to get the grill back on. I have yet to tackle the wiring .
All in all not too difficult ,just take your time.
Thanks to your help I was able to mount my driving lights. Thanks for the tips! I used a 9.1 mm drill bit and it was way loose, so I used some two part epoxy to get those rivet things nice and snug.

Now the wiring is a whole different ball game for me, as I have the phev, and I can’t even locate the power disconnect. At least if I take it to the dealership I will have saved all the cost of them removing the bumper and mounting the lights.
 
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