F60 nm exhaust
nm exhaust
I just ordered the NM exhaust from ECS-Tuning for my '19 JCW Countryman AWD. I've already made sure I had the right tools and can turn the fasteners on the cross-members and the braces at the rear differential, so I am sure those will be able to be removed as I drop the original exhaust down. Only fasteners I didn't test were the hangers and the one on the V-clamp that holds the front of the exhaust to the pipe coming down out of the engine. Anyone else that has done this swap have any tips/tricks they'd like to share? I'd sure like to be able to do this in my garage on the first try, and not get stuck with some problem that I could be prepared for. Thanks!
Thanks for the order, you can call up NM Engineering and they can give you some pointers. Ask for Jerry.
These help a bunch on those hangers: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../008778sch01a/
These help a bunch on those hangers: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben.../008778sch01a/
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Update on the NM Engineering Downpipe-back exhaust replacement. With Jerry's help at NM Engineering, and ECS-Tuning advice about getting the hanger removal tool, I was able to do this swap in my garage.
A couple of glitches...the passenger-side exhaust flap on the OEM has to be unplugged, and a thin aluminum brace (or, maybe it's a bracket...whatever it is, it's not very sturdy) won't fit back on...Jerry is going to send me some extra long bolts and spacers so that I can put it back in place. It's not easy to line up the V-Clamp on the downpipe/new exhaust. I used the bolt/nut and added a nut to make a "spreader" that allowed me to get the V-Clamp positioned well enough to get a good position. The thin little tabs on the OEM downpipe sealing gasket are easy to bend...so, look carefully to get them positioned correctly. If there is a leak at this joint, I'll buy a new sealing gasket and V-Clamp and address it. Oh, I did have to use the washers provided to make some room to be able to replace the horizontal brace just in front of the rear differential. It actually took a few extra washers to have the pipe clear the brace.
Love the way it looks and sounds...no code popped up from disconnection of the exhaust flap...I'm hoping the wiring simply drives the flap motor, I don't see any sensors, and I can't imagine a slight change in backpressure that far from the engine could foul any of the other sensors. Now that the flap is gone, I know what was happening when the sound changed as I toggled into Green mode with the OEM...that passenger exhaust flap was closing. Otherwise, it simply stayed open. Happy so far!
A couple of glitches...the passenger-side exhaust flap on the OEM has to be unplugged, and a thin aluminum brace (or, maybe it's a bracket...whatever it is, it's not very sturdy) won't fit back on...Jerry is going to send me some extra long bolts and spacers so that I can put it back in place. It's not easy to line up the V-Clamp on the downpipe/new exhaust. I used the bolt/nut and added a nut to make a "spreader" that allowed me to get the V-Clamp positioned well enough to get a good position. The thin little tabs on the OEM downpipe sealing gasket are easy to bend...so, look carefully to get them positioned correctly. If there is a leak at this joint, I'll buy a new sealing gasket and V-Clamp and address it. Oh, I did have to use the washers provided to make some room to be able to replace the horizontal brace just in front of the rear differential. It actually took a few extra washers to have the pipe clear the brace.
Love the way it looks and sounds...no code popped up from disconnection of the exhaust flap...I'm hoping the wiring simply drives the flap motor, I don't see any sensors, and I can't imagine a slight change in backpressure that far from the engine could foul any of the other sensors. Now that the flap is gone, I know what was happening when the sound changed as I toggled into Green mode with the OEM...that passenger exhaust flap was closing. Otherwise, it simply stayed open. Happy so far!
Glad you got it working
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Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Update, 200 miles and as hoped, no code from not having the passenger side exhaust flap motor connected. I did have a leak at the V-Clamp though, After some cussing and fussing, I found I had to make this Downpipe connection before any other connection...pushing the opposite end of this first pipe up in the tunnel as far as possible while fitting and tightening the V-Clamp. This allowed the right opportunity for the V-Clamp to get a "bite" that captured both the downpipe flange and the pipe shoulder.
Oh, and Jerry at NM Engineering is going to fashion a replacement "brace" or whatever that second flimsy piece of aluminum is called that behind the substantial true mid-car brace, so that it will clear the new pipe.
Sure does sound good!
Oh, and Jerry at NM Engineering is going to fashion a replacement "brace" or whatever that second flimsy piece of aluminum is called that behind the substantial true mid-car brace, so that it will clear the new pipe.
Sure does sound good!
Only problem I had (besides several attempts to get the tips perfectly aligned in the bumper before i finally got it) was removal of the two cross braces.
Had to have some of the bolts removed by a local shop.
No JCW, just the S ALL4, so nothing to unplug. I've had it since september and still love it.
Had to have some of the bolts removed by a local shop.
No JCW, just the S ALL4, so nothing to unplug. I've had it since september and still love it.
I know this is an old thread. But any sound clips. Still holding up? Has it gotten louder with time or excessive Drone. Again alot of questions on an old thread but thought I would cast my line. Thanks.
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I sold the 2019 to get a 2020 JCW. Left the NM Eng exhaust on the 2019...one of the Mini Dealership personnel bought the 2019! It wasn't getting louder. I don't think it droned, but it was aggressive, and popped on deceleration willingly, especially in Sport Mode. I'm thinking of getting the same thing again for my 2020 I liked it so much!
I sold the 2019 to get a 2020 JCW. Left the NM Eng exhaust on the 2019...one of the Mini Dealership personnel bought the 2019! It wasn't getting louder. I don't think it droned, but it was aggressive, and popped on deceleration willingly, especially in Sport Mode. I'm thinking of getting the same thing again for my 2020 I liked it so much!
The 2019 JCW popped before the NM Exhaust. With the NM Exhaust, which removed a honey-combed section, it popped significantly more. My 2020 never really popped, I was told because the ECU no longer allowed the injectors to continue feeding fuel during throttle cut-off. Yours being a 2021, I would think would NOT tend to pop due to the change to fuel trim like I had on the 2020.
Oh, the electronic valve on the end of the exhaust was only to open one side that is normally closed. THAT is not why they pop or not. That valve just allows a bit less exhaust back pressure.
I don't think your 2021 will have any significant change to pops...it will do whatever it does now, the NM is just a bit louder overall.
Oh, the electronic valve on the end of the exhaust was only to open one side that is normally closed. THAT is not why they pop or not. That valve just allows a bit less exhaust back pressure.
I don't think your 2021 will have any significant change to pops...it will do whatever it does now, the NM is just a bit louder overall.
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