I hit 1,100 miles on my S today and thought it would be a good idea to get the oil with the break-in particles out of there. Since my dealer is almost four hours away, I had a local garage change the oil and filter for me. Yup, I had purchased a half dozen filters when my car was delivered.

I remember someone asking in another thread about the quantity of oil required. It's five quarts. (Actually, a hair over five as I did the computer check of oil level once I got home and it went to 94% full.)

To my way of thinking, the small cost involved is justified by the peace of mind I'm feeling.

 

The question was mine and I do appreciate the definitive answer, I'll be coming upon 1K miles this week and be changing my oil too for the same reason.
Motor On

 

QBear. How did the oil look? Was it black or clear? Was there any visible sign of particles? Is the drain plug magnetic? If so were there any chucks of metal on it?
Did you get everything flushed out....or did they just drain and replace the oil?
Thanks Mate!

 

There was some discoloration (blackness), but really not very much. I didn't see any particles, but I didn't cut the filter apart to look for any either. Sorry, but I didn't notice whether or not the drain plug is magnetic.

I'm not aware of any method of "flushing" the system, Gregory. If such is possible, it's news to me. I did make sure the engine was up to operating temp before the oil was drained, as that's the only way I know to get most of the old oil out.

 

Would you happen to have the part number for the oil filter? Thnx

 

Yup, it's 11 42 8 570 590, and it includes a new O-ring for the filter housing and a new flat gasket for the drain plug.

 

Awesome! Thanks!

 

Be careful and get the part number above. I asked for a filter for my 2014 F56S and the parts guy handed me a 11 42 7 622 446 which at this point I'm guessing goes into all the R cars but is about half the length of the one I needed. So now I have changed my oil but NOT my filter and I'm hopping mad at Mini of Birmingham.

Anyway, the oil change was pretty simple. There are 14, 8mm hex screws that hold the under belly cover on, which hides everything. With those screws removed, simply slide the fiber belly cover off to the rear. The oil drain is on the passenger side and is a 16mm hex. The oil filter housing is the traditional BMW black plastic unit and is to the front of the car on the engine about mid-length, and has a 32mm hex to remove it. There is a smaller hex inside that 32mm one on the housing but it didn't look substantial enough to me to want to use it. I got my oil sample and will be sending that off for analysis in the 6/1 mail. I'll publish the results when I get it back. I've included a couple pictures. The first is the underside of the engine once the belly cover has been removed. The second is of the oil filter housing with the double hex for threading it on and off.

Motor On!

 

Ohhhj I bet you were pissed...

 

I got my oil analysis back from Blackwood (attached) and as anticipated the metal content is high. But if you read the comments, that's somewhat to be expected in a new engine. This is a good reason why I don't like going 5K or 10K miles before getting all that crap out of there. I'll run this analysis again at 5K and then at 10K and maybe then at 50K boundaries.

Also from my write up above I made a mistake. Turns out the smaller hex is for draining the filter housing before removing the housing to change the filter. Seems the filter comes with an O-ring for the housing, a crush washer for the oil pan drain plug and a replacement of this housing drain. I still hope somebody comes up the a spin on style filter adapter for this engine. I got one for my 911 and it's the best money I ever spent for relieving the mess that can be made with this cartridge style filter/housing.

 

Would you have changed it at 500 with this info?

 

THANK YOU for taking the time (and spending the money) to get an analysis done for everyone to see!

Lots of people love to argue with me about this but the empirical evidence doesn't lie.

Regarding the oil filter housing: The smaller hex fastener is to drain the oil out of the cartridge so you don't make a mess when you remove the housing itself. Lots of manufacturers (including Toyota) have gone this route... once you get used to changing the oil this way it really is better. Even though it's an extra step, you don't get hot oil on your hands/floor.

 

No. I think thats too soon. Like Blackwood said it takes 8 - 10k to truly break in. And while I don't wait that long I don't want to be changing the oil every other week either. Maybe instead of 1k, 5k, 10k you could do every 2.5k.

Motor On

 

14 hex screws just to get the cover off?

 

Don't shoot the messenger for the message. I didn't design it, but I sure did have to remove 14 sheet metal type screws to remove the fiber belly cover and access the oil pan and filter.

 

Here is the filter to make sure you get the correct one for the F56+. All the F56 has that fabric belly pan cover.



Papawiskey how much oil did you pull out and refill ?

Oil Filter Kit W/ O-Ring Part # 11428570590

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11428570590/ES2728689/




Thanks

 

I let her drain and drip for about 20 min and it was close enough to 4.5qts that that's what I put in. I did the electronic check and it said all was good. I still wish they have given us old dipsticks a real dipstick to check it with - I know why I don't trust the electronic stuff - I've been bitten by it once too often.

 

I looked at the attached oil analysis, but really don't know what I'm looking at.

What in the analysis says to change oil sooner than MINI recommends? I can see some metal levels are higher (and lower) than the averages, but what is the impact on the engine?

 

The first column of numbers is the particular analysis figures.
The second column of numbers is the average for this vehicle (but right now there's only been one analysis so they're the same).
The last column is what has been averaged for all cars (see comments)

Nothing tells you to change the oil before Mini recommends, but personally I know, that no mater how good machining and production techniques have gotten, there is always a metal to metal mating in a new engine that disperses particles of metals into the oil. I don't like that stuff circulating through the system so I change the oil and filter at 1000 & 5000 miles. Also if something were seriously wrong with one or more of the components in a new engine, the analysis would show that and you might save a large cost down the road by documenting this early on (now).

I spent $30K+ on this car, and a couple extra $40 oil changes and $25 oil analyses on my dime, to me, is a cheap insurance policy on it's well being and longevity. You are free to make your own choices as to how to treat your vehicle. Hope this helps.

 

Changed mine today at 1000 miles. Mini dealer tried to charge me 135.00. Ended up settling on 100.00 but still a joke. Said filters for the F56 are twice as expensive for some reason.

 

We have the oil filter kit right here for the F56: Part # 11428570590

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/11428570590/ES2728689/



Thanks

 

The oil analysis subject was in a prior R56 thread, and more than one person did it at various intervals. The conclusion was to change your oil about every 7500 miles to be on the safe side including the new car. The silicone/metal findings were just like papawhiskey and tempt you to change early, but that's not the case because that stuff isn't harmful it's just normally present. It's the condition of the oil itself that protects the engine so use good oil. There were only a couple /three that "made the grade" as I recall.

 

This ad says $69 for oil change in Santa Clara, CA.
http://www.miniservicesanjose.com/

 

Glad I don't live where angrybears lives. No special deal, just $64 for oil & filter change at 1300 miles last month.

My instrument panel indicates an oil change at 8000 miles in March of 2015.

 

Pretty easy! Mine is an F56-S. I found that the 14 sheet metal screws and fiber cover can be left in place. There are two flip-down hatches, about 4" X 4", built into the fiber cover. Open these hatches to access the oil drain plug and the oil filter. Each hatch is held shut with two half-turn screws that are easily opened with a coin.

It took 5.0 quarts of oil. I initially added 4.5 quarts, started the engine, then checked the electronic oil level. The oil display level was halfway between to low and high points. I then added a half quart, repeated the electronic oil level procedure, and it indicated full level. DONE.

My mistake was not having a 32mm socket to remove the oil filter housing. Now that I have the proper socket, it should be much easier next time.

I've had the car for 10 days, and just changed the oil at 1000 miles. I plan on doing it again at 5000, then every 5000 miles thereafter. The dealer said they do it every 8000-10,000 miles.

Respectfully,
Kevin