Two issues on my 2017 F56 S, automatic transmission:

1. An occasional warning, usually (but not always) just after first moving the car after startup (meaning after putting it in gear and rolling the vehicle just a little -- sometimes just barely out of the garage door) about cruise control not being available, that says to make an appointment with service. Goes away fast. Has not prevented cruise control use even once. Seemed more common in the cold, and first occurrence was after the RF wheel got a jolt bad enough that I had to replace the lower control arm.
   
   
2. "Flash to pass" use of the turn signal -- meaning you don't push it up or down until it clicks, you push it down just enough to activate and release, after which it will blink either once or thrice depending upon how you have it set, seems to have problems activating -- in one direction only. Similarly/along with, deactivating the turn signal manually by pushing the stalk seems to have trouble -- in the same direction. A way to visualize this mechanically: let's say to activate the signal from switch to computer (which is the actual turn signal control), you have to push the turn signal lever some specific minimal distance from off-center. To one side, that minimal distance works. To the other side, that minimal distance only sometimes works. Pushing it all the way (meaning until you get a click) works fine, but the "intermediate distance" use is, well, as described. It feels almost like either misalignment or a dirty electrical contact issue In any case, this problem did not appear for the first time at the same time as #1, but it was maybe a few months later.
   

Problem #2 has me suspicious of the clock spring. Problem #1 had me suspicious of some wheel-spin-something, some electronics that I am unfamiliar with at or around the RF wheel hub. But I'm starting to hear about other cruise control weirdnesses in other forums that are making me think clock spring.

I'm going to replace the RF wheel hub anyway, because I have other reasons (sound, vibration) to think it got bonked in a way that suggests its time has come. But I want to know what others think about the two symptoms detailed, together and separately.

Along with that: if I replace the clock spring (part# 61316992509), I've got three options: (a) Genuine BMW/MINI part ($240-ish range after tax and shipping), (b) clearly aftermarket product manufactured in China selling its stuff through eBay ($80-ish range), and advertising themselves explicitly as an aftermarket house for various bits of electrical, difficult to find, etc. Since the car is 9 years old it's in a zone where certain aftermarket electronics at lower prices may make sense to take seriously. But they come with caveat emptor. or (c) used clock spring -- there seem to be a lot of combination switch+clock spring (part# 61316992509 or predecessor) assemblies out there on eBay, presumably from parted-out cars.

What do you think, on (1) the diag side and (2) the clock spring part options, if indeed that's the part at issue?