Hi Folks,

The dealer just said my wife's 2016 F55 needs new rear brakes and rotors, at only 20k. Seemed early to me and there was no indicator light, but I checked and the driver's side rear inboard pad is worn to the metal backing, while the outside is still pretty thick. (I think this indicates a problem with the slide pins or the caliper, but that is a separate issue.)
The rotor is scored so I ordered a brake kit from Way Motors and plan to swap both rear rotors/pads myself, as I have always done my own work, albeit not on Minis. I found some youtube videos of rear brake rotor/pad replacement for Gen2 Minis, and a Pelican guide for the R56, but not the F55/56. Is there anything radically different I need to know, or is there a guide somewhere?
I have the T50 torx and a caliper compression/turn tool, the "thin" 15mm wrench, silicone lube, and normal tools.

I plan to pay special attention to the slide pins, given the wear, and monitor them to be sure the problem does not persist. If it does, I am guessing time for a new caliper.

Any links, hints or advice would be appreciated.

 

Don't think there is much difference. As I recall both generations require you to turn the pistons back to fit the new pads. You can look at newtis.info for details.

The rear pads on these cars often wear quickly due to the use of them in the electronic braking when turning and during aggressive driving. I changed mine at 16K, although they had more time on them. Fronts looked in great shape but I wanted to have all new same type pads so did them all. (actually my mechanic did them all while I just paid!) Too old for brake work.

 

So I finished. Not too hard but a couple of changes from what I saw in existing tutorials. The rotor retention bolt is no longer a torx, just a regular allen now. Unfortunately, the caliper bracket retention bolts are no longer standard metrics, but etorx 14 now, which required a trip to the store. And they require lots of force the whole way out.

I am not sure if this is a change, but the ebrake is attached on both rear brakes, so the ebrake cables keep the rotors from pulling on the brake lines - less need for a bungee. The wear sensor is only on the passenger side, but my kit had one for each side. Maybe some have it on both sides or maybe mine was missing one side. I'll have to check.

My Zimmerman rotors had a coating on them, which there is some discussion about taking off or not. I left it and the brakes bedded in fine, cleaning it off the rotors where the pads contact.

 

Never opened up the brakes..does the handbrake cable also connect and use the pads and rotor or is there a separate brake mechanism? Left rear of mine sticks in cold weather so I don’t use the handbrake (unless I want to see a red hot rotor ),

 

Sorry, adding to main page instead of a reply to this existing post. And I don't see a simple DELETE for my existing post.

 

Wolvieweb, I read your posting more carefully, I missed the mention of the brake sensor the first time. So you did in fact replace a wear sensor? Did you find a way to reset whatever has to be reset without going to a dealer?

 

Hi,

Sorry for the delay - I don't come here that much. Mostly a lurker.

I did replace the wear sensor, but it had not worn through, so I did not have to do any reset. If it takes a trip to the dealer, I am going to try to always replace them before they wear through.

 

Thanks. I think I just freaked out a bit at the new-to-me part about the sensor, and freaked out a little too much. I do that sometimes, lol.

 

I believe if the sensor hasn't triggered the dash warnings you can replace the pads and sensor yourself. If the dash warning has been triggered then after fitting new pads and sensor you need the dealer to reset it

My rear pads are down to 4mm where the fronts are still at 7mm - Cooper S with 13k :(