Automatic Transmission Fluid Question
My apologies to the moderators, as I meant to post this response here, but instead clicked on the 2nd gen automatic transmission thread...
Not sure if @rk15000 is still following this thread? So, I have done multiple searches YouTube/other Mini sites and I cannot find any video's on doing this automatic transmission flush on an F56S - LOTS of R56 and manual transmissions, but no autos?? My car is a 2015 F56-S with auto and 89K miles.
So, perhaps @Chazman or @Yupetc or @ECS Tuning could answer a couple of basic details questions I have? First is access to the fill plug (T55): is there a guide to get access to it? Just removal of the incoming air tube and the inlet pipe? If done with the car in a "cold" state, when I remove the T40 overflow drain plug as second step, I should expect little to no fluid when cold, correct? To remove the overflow tube, that means removing the 17mm plug that has the tube attached to it, correct? Going with this cold process, I should expect to get about 3 quarts of fluid out after I remove the 17mm plug with drain tube, right?, and then I should replace the same amount drained with new ATF-6 fluid. Am I missing anything here? Thanks in advance.
Not sure if @rk15000 is still following this thread? So, I have done multiple searches YouTube/other Mini sites and I cannot find any video's on doing this automatic transmission flush on an F56S - LOTS of R56 and manual transmissions, but no autos?? My car is a 2015 F56-S with auto and 89K miles.
So, perhaps @Chazman or @Yupetc or @ECS Tuning could answer a couple of basic details questions I have? First is access to the fill plug (T55): is there a guide to get access to it? Just removal of the incoming air tube and the inlet pipe? If done with the car in a "cold" state, when I remove the T40 overflow drain plug as second step, I should expect little to no fluid when cold, correct? To remove the overflow tube, that means removing the 17mm plug that has the tube attached to it, correct? Going with this cold process, I should expect to get about 3 quarts of fluid out after I remove the 17mm plug with drain tube, right?, and then I should replace the same amount drained with new ATF-6 fluid. Am I missing anything here? Thanks in advance.
If it hasn't been stated here before..
ALAWAYS make sure you can remove the fill plug before draining.
If you cant remove it, or mess the bolt up, you can always drive the car to a repair shop.
If you've drained it already, and cant open the fill, you'll have to fill backwards through the overflow tube until it runs out, not a pretty sight.
ALAWAYS make sure you can remove the fill plug before draining.
If you cant remove it, or mess the bolt up, you can always drive the car to a repair shop.
If you've drained it already, and cant open the fill, you'll have to fill backwards through the overflow tube until it runs out, not a pretty sight.
Hi all - just did the automatic drain and refill procedure on my 2015 Mini S 2-door. Search as I might, I could not find a video or picture guide for the F56 - lots of 2nd gen and Countrymen etc., guides but not for the 3rd gen hatchback. So, I took a few pictures to ADD to this thread - thank you to @Chazman for his basic set of instructions that I followed and I'd like to add on to these steps with what I observed and took pictures of (mostly the initial steps on my F56S):
- I put a level on top of the sunroof and then jacked up all four wheels and ensured the car was level. Be safe - use jack stands/blocks/etc. I am doing the COLD drain and fill with same amount of ATF.
- For the F56S, first remove the Air Intake and the MAF/Air Filter box. This is shown in the first picture. I believe the air intake runner uses 10mm bolts (2 of them) and then it clips onto the front of the air filter box.
- Second picture shows the MAF/Air Filter box. It is attached with one 10mm bolt. Loosen the screw clamp with an 8mm(?) socket. To remove the electrical connector from the MAF there is a white clip on the bottom that you must slide back to release (I had to us a small screw driver). Also wiggle off the wiring harness from the metal tab.
- And voila - to the right (driver's fender firewall) you will see the Fill plug. As wisely stated by TVPostSound - loosen this plug first! See picture 3. Now time to crawl under the car.
- You need to remove the large splash shield to gain access to the transmission drain plug. There are 14 screw bolts that need to be removed with I think an 8mm socket (I may be getting the 8mm and 10mm bolts mixed up..). The fourth and fifth pictures show the front and back of the splash shield/screw bolts. Only retighten these to a gentle snug as they are easy to strip through the plastic clips.
- My sixth and final picture shows the incredibly creative ATF catch container I fashioned out of a gallon milk jug and a small funnel. I measured and marked the quart levels (dashes) and the top dot is at 3.5 quarts. As mentioned by others you will get about 3 quarts out with this cold drain method. Above the jug you will see the T-40 overflow screw which you will take out first. Then the main drain plug which takes a 17mm hex bit to remove.
- The fun begins! I carefully position the jug. Insert the T-40 torx bit into the o/f screw and loosen it. I then carefully unscrew it out with my fingers, and, it falls into the funnel. OK - I'll get it later after the initial small amount of ATF comes out. Wrong! The screw went straight down into the funnel drain and plugged it up AND about 1 quart of ATF will come out here!!! I'm trying to reach the o/f screw but can't without tipping the funnel over and spilling all of that ATF all over my hand and the jug and garage floor. Nice!
- After that mess wipe up, it's time to remove the main drain bolt. But, in my prep haste I read in my mind it took a 17mm wrench to remove, bit it is a 17mm hex bit and I don't have one!! I try to jury-rig up an 11/16" bolt which is close to 17mm but it is too small and starts to strip inside the drain bolt. So, after a cleanup and a quick bit to eat for lunch, I called around and found an O'Reilly auto parts store that had it in stock....I begged but they wouldn't deliver. I now start roaming my neighborhood to see if any neighbors have this 17mm Hex bit or will give me a ride to the auto parts store. One of my neighbors is home, but he doesn't have one, but he said let's check one house down as he is an ex VW mechanic. Couldn't believe it but he had a 17mm Hex bit!!!
- So, next is removing the main drain plug. I carefully removed it by hand and it poured right into the funnel. Good, right? But no...the volume of exiting ATF was too much for the funnel to handle, and, it overflowed all over the floor! :-( So, I wound up with 2 quarts in the jug and I approximate about 1.1 quarts on the garage floor.
- Once clean up was finally done, the fill process went without much excitement (yay!) I used Liqui Moly Top Tech 1800 which meets BMW specs for this transmission. I put in 3 liters which equals 3.18 quarts based on the amounts from others who have done this since I couldn't be accurate with my special jug where a good quart wound up on the floor. Another story to tell...
- I have to say my car seems to feel a bit smoother shifting now, especially the 1st-2nd shifts, so I'm happy with the effort. If you don't mess up plan on 2.5 to 3 hours all totaled in getting everything ready and then cleaning all your tools and putting them away etc. Of course my adventure took 6 hours! Have fun and thanks again to this forum for all of the info and guides and support here.
Reviewing this thread, I see 6 choices referenced for auto transmission fluids:
- Genuine BMW/MINI (highest cost) ATF6 or ATF JWS-3309
- AISIN ATF 6 (though it looks out there like their T4 product is a maybe)?
- Liqui Moly Top Tec 1800 ATF
- Redline D6 (does not cross-ref the BMW part explicitly but hey, it's Redline, and people are using it)
- Febi Bilstein (whose bottle shape is unique and looks like a dead match for the genuine BMW/MINI bottle, shapewise)
- Motul Multi ATF (note that this is the only Motul referenced in-thread that says it can be mixed with not-necessarily-similar product).
Sooo... I gather @ECSTuning prefers the Redline D6 in their manual gearboxes, but what's the more explicit word on the AISIN auto transmission? Can some folks throw some testimonials here, especially those of you who documented your ATF changes in years past within this thread? Want to hear your postmortem (ha ha) experiences with whatever fluid you chose. Thanks!
- Genuine BMW/MINI (highest cost) ATF6 or ATF JWS-3309
- AISIN ATF 6 (though it looks out there like their T4 product is a maybe)?
- Liqui Moly Top Tec 1800 ATF
- Redline D6 (does not cross-ref the BMW part explicitly but hey, it's Redline, and people are using it)
- Febi Bilstein (whose bottle shape is unique and looks like a dead match for the genuine BMW/MINI bottle, shapewise)
- Motul Multi ATF (note that this is the only Motul referenced in-thread that says it can be mixed with not-necessarily-similar product).
Sooo... I gather @ECSTuning prefers the Redline D6 in their manual gearboxes, but what's the more explicit word on the AISIN auto transmission? Can some folks throw some testimonials here, especially those of you who documented your ATF changes in years past within this thread? Want to hear your postmortem (ha ha) experiences with whatever fluid you chose. Thanks!
[size=16px]Motul 105774 ATF VI is my most current atf fluid used. 4L total filled, unknown quantity of old atf remaining. 2 months and 1k miles on it and shifting is consistent and notably better than the previous fluid used. Last interval was 1 year, 5k miles of liqui moly top tec 1800 and I put 5L in. Shifting quality marginally degraded by the year mark and the drained fluid was dark. Hard to make definitive conclusions as I did not run tests after draining and my methodology for achieving the correct fluid level is suspect. For reference the vehicle had its first atf change at 63k.[/size]
Reviewing this thread, I see 6 choices referenced for auto transmission fluids:
- Genuine BMW/MINI (highest cost) ATF6 or ATF JWS-3309
- AISIN ATF 6 (though it looks out there like their T4 product is a maybe)?
- Liqui Moly Top Tec 1800 ATF
- Redline D6 (does not cross-ref the BMW part explicitly but hey, it's Redline, and people are using it)
- Febi Bilstein
- Motul Multi ATF (note that this is the only Motul referenced in-thread that says it can be mixed with not-necessarily-similar product).
Sooo... I gather @ECSTuning prefers the Redline D6 in their manual gearboxes, but what's the more explicit word on the AISIN auto transmission? Can some folks throw some testimonials here, especially those of you who documented your ATF changes in years past within this thread? Want to hear your postmortem (ha ha) experiences with whatever fluid you chose. Thanks!
- Genuine BMW/MINI (highest cost) ATF6 or ATF JWS-3309
- AISIN ATF 6 (though it looks out there like their T4 product is a maybe)?
- Liqui Moly Top Tec 1800 ATF
- Redline D6 (does not cross-ref the BMW part explicitly but hey, it's Redline, and people are using it)
- Febi Bilstein
- Motul Multi ATF (note that this is the only Motul referenced in-thread that says it can be mixed with not-necessarily-similar product).
Sooo... I gather @ECSTuning prefers the Redline D6 in their manual gearboxes, but what's the more explicit word on the AISIN auto transmission? Can some folks throw some testimonials here, especially those of you who documented your ATF changes in years past within this thread? Want to hear your postmortem (ha ha) experiences with whatever fluid you chose. Thanks!
Last edited by UnderWaterAce; Mar 17, 2023 at 07:20 PM.
Motul 105774 ATF VI is my most current atf fluid used. 4L total filled, unknown quantity of old atf remaining. 2 months and 1k miles on it and shifting is consistent and notably better than the previous fluid used. Last interval was 1 year, 5k miles of liqui moly top tec 1800 and I put 5L in. Shifting quality marginally degraded by the year mark and the drained fluid was dark. Hard to make definitive conclusions as I did not run tests after draining and my methodology for achieving the correct fluid level is suspect. For reference the vehicle had its first atf change at 63k.
2015 F55 base. I am usually driving around with the sport transmission activated so my transmission wear may be abnormal.
My F56 S recently rolled 100K and I'm the second owner, so I'll be doing the first ATF service, and I'm thinking an interval of 30,000 miles to get all the original stuff out of there is going to be the plan. Just have to pick the fluid...
I chose Motul over Febi due to accessibility. I can buy ATF IV from Amazon and it’s roughly the same price as Febi from eBay but realistically either should be fine. I am likely going to do 15k due to the way I drive. I exclusively do short city driving close 50% throttle input, well into boost up to 60 mph and downshifting to decelerate for the next light. The way I drive is partially why is use Motul 300V even though it’s a B38 engine.
Got it -- helpful, including the detail about keeping it in Sport mode. Bottom line in my mind is one should be able to do that with routine maintenance, so the data point is very helpful.
My F56 S recently rolled 100K and I'm the second owner, so I'll be doing the first ATF service, and I'm thinking an interval of 30,000 miles to get all the original stuff out of there is going to be the plan. Just have to pick the fluid...
My F56 S recently rolled 100K and I'm the second owner, so I'll be doing the first ATF service, and I'm thinking an interval of 30,000 miles to get all the original stuff out of there is going to be the plan. Just have to pick the fluid...
Interesting that the BMW/MINI-brand looks to be a relabeled physical Febi bottle which, if you are correct, contains repackaged AISIN. ATF = Matryoshka dolls
Side note, the Febi product (G055025A2) appears to be dino oil rather than synthetic (that surprises me). Safety Data Sheet from the Febi website.
I know the Redline D6, Top Tec, and Motul products are full synthetic; if BMW is repackaged Febi and the Febi is repackaged AISIN, I can't tell whether it is synthetic. According to this link, AISIN ATF-0T4 is non-synthetic ("This is not synthetic fluid, it is conventional ATF with an anti-foaming agent additives"), but the manufacturer Technical Data Sheet for the same product explicitly says it is "Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid." The AISIN website also says explicitly that "ALL AISIN Automatic Transmisison and CVT Fluids are synthetic."
I'm looking for synthetic, so being unclear on the Febi/AISIN -- that would take me down to the Redline, Motul, or Top Tec. Based on @UnderWaterAce 's experience I think I'm going to skip the Top Tec. I suppose that narrows it to Motul vs Redline (or AISIN if I figure that out).
Anybody got any additional comments -- or other testimonials from running in their automatic transmission -- on the Motul 105774 ATF VI or Redline D6?
I have used Redline D4 in a different (older) car for a long, long time without issue, so I have some trust there, but I really want to hear firsthand experience of others in the context of the BMW/MINI automatic transmission before making final decision.
I know the Redline D6, Top Tec, and Motul products are full synthetic; if BMW is repackaged Febi and the Febi is repackaged AISIN, I can't tell whether it is synthetic. According to this link, AISIN ATF-0T4 is non-synthetic ("This is not synthetic fluid, it is conventional ATF with an anti-foaming agent additives"), but the manufacturer Technical Data Sheet for the same product explicitly says it is "Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid." The AISIN website also says explicitly that "ALL AISIN Automatic Transmisison and CVT Fluids are synthetic."
I'm looking for synthetic, so being unclear on the Febi/AISIN -- that would take me down to the Redline, Motul, or Top Tec. Based on @UnderWaterAce 's experience I think I'm going to skip the Top Tec. I suppose that narrows it to Motul vs Redline (or AISIN if I figure that out).
Anybody got any additional comments -- or other testimonials from running in their automatic transmission -- on the Motul 105774 ATF VI or Redline D6?
I have used Redline D4 in a different (older) car for a long, long time without issue, so I have some trust there, but I really want to hear firsthand experience of others in the context of the BMW/MINI automatic transmission before making final decision.
Last edited by cjv2; Mar 18, 2023 at 11:49 AM. Reason: claifications about Febi and/or AISIN being synthetic or non-synthetic -- can't quite figure
Side note, the Febi product (G055025A2) appears to be dino oil rather than synthetic (that surprises me). Safety Data Sheet from the Febi website.
I know the Redline D6, Top Tec, and Motul products are full synthetic; if BMW is repackaged Febi and the Febi is repackaged AISIN, I can't tell whether it is synthetic. According to this link, AISIN ATF-0T4 is non-synthetic ("This is not synthetic fluid, it is conventional ATF with an anti-foaming agent additives"), but the manufacturer Technical Data Sheet for the same product explicitly says it is "Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid." The AISIN website also says explicitly that "ALL AISIN Automatic Transmisison and CVT Fluids are synthetic."
I'm looking for synthetic, so being unclear on the Febi/AISIN -- that would take me down to the Redline, Motul, or Top Tec. Based on @UnderWaterAce 's experience I think I'm going to skip the Top Tec. I suppose that narrows it to Motul vs Redline (or AISIN if I figure that out).
Anybody got any additional comments -- or other testimonials from running in their automatic transmission -- on the Motul 105774 ATF VI or Redline D6?
I have used Redline D4 in a different (older) car for a long, long time without issue, so I have some trust there, but I really want to hear firsthand experience of others in the context of the BMW/MINI automatic transmission before making final decision.
I know the Redline D6, Top Tec, and Motul products are full synthetic; if BMW is repackaged Febi and the Febi is repackaged AISIN, I can't tell whether it is synthetic. According to this link, AISIN ATF-0T4 is non-synthetic ("This is not synthetic fluid, it is conventional ATF with an anti-foaming agent additives"), but the manufacturer Technical Data Sheet for the same product explicitly says it is "Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid." The AISIN website also says explicitly that "ALL AISIN Automatic Transmisison and CVT Fluids are synthetic."
I'm looking for synthetic, so being unclear on the Febi/AISIN -- that would take me down to the Redline, Motul, or Top Tec. Based on @UnderWaterAce 's experience I think I'm going to skip the Top Tec. I suppose that narrows it to Motul vs Redline (or AISIN if I figure that out).
Anybody got any additional comments -- or other testimonials from running in their automatic transmission -- on the Motul 105774 ATF VI or Redline D6?
I have used Redline D4 in a different (older) car for a long, long time without issue, so I have some trust there, but I really want to hear firsthand experience of others in the context of the BMW/MINI automatic transmission before making final decision.
Synthetic IS a petroleum based product!!! It is synthesized from crude oil.
So if it says petroleum, thats the base.
To quote Mobil oil:
Synthetic oils are created through complex processes, including being chemically developed from petrochemicals, to have the exact molecular qualities needed for a specific application.
These processes remove impurities from the crude oil and enable individual molecules to be tailored to the demands of modern engines. These customized molecules in synthetic oils provide higher levels of performance and protection than conventional oils.
Royal Purple:
Synthetic base oils are made from petroleum, hydrocarbon gases, and alcohols.
So the word petroleum can also mean synthetic.
Last edited by TVPostSound; Mar 18, 2023 at 03:41 PM.
Synthetic IS a petroleum based product!!! It is synthesized from crude oil.
So if it says petroleum, thats the base.
To quote Mobil oil:
Synthetic oils are created through complex processes, including being chemically developed from petrochemicals, to have the exact molecular qualities needed for a specific application.
These processes remove impurities from the crude oil and enable individual molecules to be tailored to the demands of modern engines. These customized molecules in synthetic oils provide higher levels of performance and protection than conventional oils.
Royal Purple:
Synthetic base oils are made from petroleum, hydrocarbon gases, and alcohols.
So the word petroleum can also mean synthetic.
So if it says petroleum, thats the base.
To quote Mobil oil:
Synthetic oils are created through complex processes, including being chemically developed from petrochemicals, to have the exact molecular qualities needed for a specific application.
These processes remove impurities from the crude oil and enable individual molecules to be tailored to the demands of modern engines. These customized molecules in synthetic oils provide higher levels of performance and protection than conventional oils.
Royal Purple:
Synthetic base oils are made from petroleum, hydrocarbon gases, and alcohols.
So the word petroleum can also mean synthetic.
I'm honestly not sure what that one website saying the AISIN product is not a synthetic is all about -- it's an interesting callout for sure. In any case, one thing that is clear is that AISIN made the transmission, so they're going to be top expert about what needs to go in it. I would still very much like to hear firsthand experiences with the combination of Redline D6 and this particular AT (and the Motul VI too if anyone else is running it).
****EDIT 26 Nov 2023 - ATF0T4 is NOT NOT NOT the fluid for the GA6F21AW (F56), it is the fluid for the GA6F21WA (predecessor).****
****The fluid for the GA6F21AW (F56) is ATF6, and I hate transposing part number digits/letters with extreme passion now, but my transmission is fine (thankfully).****
For parties who have asked about the ATF capacity (vs how much you can get drained out): Amsoil actually shows a quantity of 5.8 quarts for the "GA6F21AW 6-speed automatic transmission" (which is the one most if not all folks have been talking about). Just Google "GA6F21AW capacity" and it's the first thing that comes up (at least for me), associated with the 2015 Cooper. Elsewhere I found a capacity listing of 5.5 liters. MiniMania lists the same capacities.
I have the GA6F21AW in my 2017 F56S and I did the deed with AISIN 1161540 ATF0T4 last night, reasoning that in 30K miles I will do this *again* just to try to get "the rest" (well, something approaching the rest) of the original fluid out. 2.6 - 2.7 quarts came out of the transmission with the fill plug, the drain plug, and the overflow plug removed. It pretty much stopped dripping after that.
Following procedures to fill back up, which involve (as some have noted) specific steps that included filling with the overflow plug removed (until overflow happens), I managed to overflow until I consumed exactly 3 quarts (the amount above original amount drained ended up in the drain pan).
Specific observations from the drain/refill:
- At just over 100K miles, the fluid I drained was brown with dark red hues you could only really see if the light hit it just right. I even put some in a clear plastic cup to confirm. Even held up to light, mostly brown.
- The new AISIN ATF0T4 that I put in was a deep red, similar if not the same as the red hue on the drained fluid.
- Since the change, the car is peppier... in ECO/Green mode (I use ECO mode a lot). Faster shifts, not nearly as much dragging (this is an ECO mode thing) off the line. The car also seems to downshift and move into power bands a lot more readily -- aggressively in fact -- on its own in ECO mode, behaving a bit more like Comfort/MID mode. The difference is significant enough that once or twice I actually double-checked to make sure I hadn't bumped over to MID mode without realizing it. Not-ECO is gonna be fun.
So for anyone considering doing this op, my takeaways are:
(1) Ensure you have at least 4 quarts on hand before doing all this.
(2) Make sure the car is 100% level or as close as you can get before you start taking things apart. It matters for both drain and refill.
(3) When doing the refill, when you get to about 2.25 quarts, slow down your pour. Takes a bit for what you're overpouring to get to the bottom to start draining out of the overflow.
(4) Follow manufacturer procedures if you can. Getting ATF into the torque converter before you declare it "done" matters.
(5) Lifetime fluid? Nah. Don't think so. I mean, it might keep running if you don't change it, but the before/after difference just from exchanging 2.6 - 2.7 quarts of the 5.81 quarts in there (5.5L) was huge on my 100K F56S.
****The fluid for the GA6F21AW (F56) is ATF6, and I hate transposing part number digits/letters with extreme passion now, but my transmission is fine (thankfully).****
For parties who have asked about the ATF capacity (vs how much you can get drained out): Amsoil actually shows a quantity of 5.8 quarts for the "GA6F21AW 6-speed automatic transmission" (which is the one most if not all folks have been talking about). Just Google "GA6F21AW capacity" and it's the first thing that comes up (at least for me), associated with the 2015 Cooper. Elsewhere I found a capacity listing of 5.5 liters. MiniMania lists the same capacities.
I have the GA6F21AW in my 2017 F56S and I did the deed with AISIN 1161540 ATF0T4 last night, reasoning that in 30K miles I will do this *again* just to try to get "the rest" (well, something approaching the rest) of the original fluid out. 2.6 - 2.7 quarts came out of the transmission with the fill plug, the drain plug, and the overflow plug removed. It pretty much stopped dripping after that.
Following procedures to fill back up, which involve (as some have noted) specific steps that included filling with the overflow plug removed (until overflow happens), I managed to overflow until I consumed exactly 3 quarts (the amount above original amount drained ended up in the drain pan).
Specific observations from the drain/refill:
- At just over 100K miles, the fluid I drained was brown with dark red hues you could only really see if the light hit it just right. I even put some in a clear plastic cup to confirm. Even held up to light, mostly brown.
- The new AISIN ATF0T4 that I put in was a deep red, similar if not the same as the red hue on the drained fluid.
- Since the change, the car is peppier... in ECO/Green mode (I use ECO mode a lot). Faster shifts, not nearly as much dragging (this is an ECO mode thing) off the line. The car also seems to downshift and move into power bands a lot more readily -- aggressively in fact -- on its own in ECO mode, behaving a bit more like Comfort/MID mode. The difference is significant enough that once or twice I actually double-checked to make sure I hadn't bumped over to MID mode without realizing it. Not-ECO is gonna be fun.

So for anyone considering doing this op, my takeaways are:
(1) Ensure you have at least 4 quarts on hand before doing all this.
(2) Make sure the car is 100% level or as close as you can get before you start taking things apart. It matters for both drain and refill.
(3) When doing the refill, when you get to about 2.25 quarts, slow down your pour. Takes a bit for what you're overpouring to get to the bottom to start draining out of the overflow.
(4) Follow manufacturer procedures if you can. Getting ATF into the torque converter before you declare it "done" matters.
(5) Lifetime fluid? Nah. Don't think so. I mean, it might keep running if you don't change it, but the before/after difference just from exchanging 2.6 - 2.7 quarts of the 5.81 quarts in there (5.5L) was huge on my 100K F56S.
Last edited by cjv2; Nov 26, 2023 at 06:50 PM. Reason: Explain screwup reading transmission part numbers and ATF0T4 vs ATF6 choice
I don't know (because I've read this thread too many times) whether there has been discussion of moving through each gear step at least 2x with at least 2 seconds in each position with foot brake applied and while engine running -- to get the fluid moving into/through the torque converter, presumably -- but I did that too. I actually did that for each level check cycle, from initial to final, with final step being top-off and resealing the overflow plug.
Also made a point of replacing the O-rings on each plug. It's a smart move, BMW calls for it, and the condition I found the originals made it clear that I had made a wise proactive choice. The O-ring on the overflow plug in particular was actually chewed up pretty good.
Re the ATF choice, the short version (***EDITED 26 Nov 2023***) is that I flipped the last 2 characters of the AISIN part number for the transmission and got myself into a mess of confusion where I thought I was reading the spec for the F56 transmission (part ends in "AW") but I was reading the spec for what is apparently its predecessor (part ends in "WA"). It has not killed my transmission as of 26 Nov 2023 but hm, go me? Yay? Lucky? I intend to put an ATF6 in the car.
Last edited by cjv2; Nov 26, 2023 at 06:49 PM. Reason: Explain screwup reading transmission part numbers and ATF0T4 vs ATF6 choice
I may have done something wrong with the fluid change process in my car. Transmission lost the ability to engage after hitting 60mph while accelerating, made a terrible racket and left me stranded for an hour. Afterwards it would go into gear normally but seemed ready to pop out of gear if I loaded it too much. Limped home without going above 4th gear. No current trouble codes but I have had a atf fluid temp warning stored in the past. As well, a few months back it popped out of 6th going uphill on the freeway but reengaged quickly. Will not be fun if this means a new transmission for me.
Doing another change with Motul ATF, adding Liqui Moly ATF additive, and purchasing a scan gauge to make sure I have exactly between 35-45C trans temp instead of using a infrared sensor like
I have been. Looking forward to some
glitter!
Doing another change with Motul ATF, adding Liqui Moly ATF additive, and purchasing a scan gauge to make sure I have exactly between 35-45C trans temp instead of using a infrared sensor like
I have been. Looking forward to some
glitter!
ATF VI and ATF 6 are not the same.
ATF VI is Dexron, an improvement of Dexron III, and Dexron IV, notice the roman numerals.
You've essentially mixed ATF VI with the leftover ATF 6 that was in the torque converter.
Motul does not have an ATF product application for BMW or MINI F series.
Use this
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/FB-83222355599
Or Pentosin
ATF VI is Dexron, an improvement of Dexron III, and Dexron IV, notice the roman numerals.
You've essentially mixed ATF VI with the leftover ATF 6 that was in the torque converter.
Motul does not have an ATF product application for BMW or MINI F series.
Use this
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/FB-83222355599
Or Pentosin
I used it based on the fact they list ATF 6 (83 22 2 355 599) in their list of “OE performances”, something I have not seen elsewhere outside of the Febi and OEM product. However, I understand it’s a generalized list.
ATF VI and ATF 6 are not the same.
ATF VI is Dexron, an improvement of Dexron III, and Dexron IV, notice the roman numerals.
You've essentially mixed ATF VI with the leftover ATF 6 that was in the torque converter.
Motul does not have an ATF product application for BMW or MINI F series.
Use this
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/FB-83222355599
Or Pentosin
https://www.amazon.com/Pentosin-1058...764579012&th=1
ATF VI is Dexron, an improvement of Dexron III, and Dexron IV, notice the roman numerals.
You've essentially mixed ATF VI with the leftover ATF 6 that was in the torque converter.
Motul does not have an ATF product application for BMW or MINI F series.
Use this
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/FB-83222355599
Or Pentosin
https://www.amazon.com/Pentosin-1058...764579012&th=1
Under "OEM Performances" Motul lists "BMW ATF6" on the ATF VI product page.
And on the linked-within Technical Data Sheet for the ATF VI product, "ATF6" is listed under the OE Performances section for BMW, as well as "ATF7" (!) listed for MINI.
Pages of the Technical Data Sheet are stamped with an 11/22 date at time of this forum post.
I am probably not going to test my luck with Motul given this confusion. But I got to nosing around today, found this, and figured I would share because the "VI" vs "6" question (plus the Dexron intersect) has been bugging me too.
Hope this is useful
@TVPostSound I owe you a pizza.
Took me forever but I realized that in reading the TIS spec for the GA6F21AW, I transposed the last 2 characters and read the spec for its predecessor. I hate it when I make that kind of screwup.
Anyway, the predecessor is the one that specifies JWS 3309. The GA6F21AW uses, as you noted, ATF6 exclusively. ATF6 appears to correspond to JWS 3324 and the AISIN part number for their ATF6 1-quart bottle is "ATF-0WS" (aka "ATF WS" printed on the front label).
Thankfully, I have not roasted my GA6F21AW.
Took me forever but I realized that in reading the TIS spec for the GA6F21AW, I transposed the last 2 characters and read the spec for its predecessor. I hate it when I make that kind of screwup.
Anyway, the predecessor is the one that specifies JWS 3309. The GA6F21AW uses, as you noted, ATF6 exclusively. ATF6 appears to correspond to JWS 3324 and the AISIN part number for their ATF6 1-quart bottle is "ATF-0WS" (aka "ATF WS" printed on the front label).
Thankfully, I have not roasted my GA6F21AW.
Last edited by cjv2; Nov 26, 2023 at 06:47 PM.
@TVPostSound I owe you a pizza.
Took me forever but I realized that in reading the TIS spec for the GA6F21AW, I transposed the last 2 characters and read the spec for its predecessor. I hate it when I make that kind of screwup.
Anyway, the predecessor is the one that specifies JWS 3309. The GA6F21AW uses, as you noted, ATF6 exclusively. ATF6 appears to correspond to JWS 3324 and the AISIN part number for their ATF6 1-quart bottle is "ATF-0WS" (aka "ATF WS" printed on the front label).
Thankfully, I have not roasted my GA6F21AW.
Took me forever but I realized that in reading the TIS spec for the GA6F21AW, I transposed the last 2 characters and read the spec for its predecessor. I hate it when I make that kind of screwup.
Anyway, the predecessor is the one that specifies JWS 3309. The GA6F21AW uses, as you noted, ATF6 exclusively. ATF6 appears to correspond to JWS 3324 and the AISIN part number for their ATF6 1-quart bottle is "ATF-0WS" (aka "ATF WS" printed on the front label).
Thankfully, I have not roasted my GA6F21AW.







