Rear bumper lights
Rear bumper lights
For the 6th time since I bought my ‘16 Clubman brand new, which is now way out of warranty, my bumper-mounted taillight housings are having electrical issues.
Symptoms are that:
- Occasionally, the dash says that a turn signal or brake light is out, even though it isn't
- When the car is locked and I walk up and open the barn doors, one of the bumper lights will illuminate dimmer than the other
When this happened the first time 4 years ago or so, the SA at the dealer advised me that it was a known issue and they'd replace the entire housing. Then it happened on the other side and they replaced that housing. Since then, every time it's happened, I pop the housing out of the bumper and just reseat the bulbs and it goes away for a year or so. But it's happening yet again - and this time only a few weeks after my "repair" - and now I'm wondering if any of you have seen this and have discovered what the actual root cause is. It must be some sort of bad connection inside the housing itself but I don't know the specifics, and I'd love to fix it permanently, especially now that the car is out of warranty and can't just get the dealer to replace the housing for free.
Any suggestions?
Symptoms are that:
- Occasionally, the dash says that a turn signal or brake light is out, even though it isn't
- When the car is locked and I walk up and open the barn doors, one of the bumper lights will illuminate dimmer than the other
When this happened the first time 4 years ago or so, the SA at the dealer advised me that it was a known issue and they'd replace the entire housing. Then it happened on the other side and they replaced that housing. Since then, every time it's happened, I pop the housing out of the bumper and just reseat the bulbs and it goes away for a year or so. But it's happening yet again - and this time only a few weeks after my "repair" - and now I'm wondering if any of you have seen this and have discovered what the actual root cause is. It must be some sort of bad connection inside the housing itself but I don't know the specifics, and I'd love to fix it permanently, especially now that the car is out of warranty and can't just get the dealer to replace the housing for free.
Any suggestions?
The dealer-replaced housing should have a warranty on it from the replacement date.
The issue is a loose bulb, very common on many MINIs & BMWs.
I suggest you clean the socket carefully. Try to squeeze the bulb holder just a little so that the bulb is a snug fit. See if you can improve the pressure on the contact(s) in the base of the socket. Then wipe the base of the bulb with a rag impregnated with dielectric grease - that should fix it.
(Repeat for all other bulbs at your discretion!).
The issue is a loose bulb, very common on many MINIs & BMWs.
I suggest you clean the socket carefully. Try to squeeze the bulb holder just a little so that the bulb is a snug fit. See if you can improve the pressure on the contact(s) in the base of the socket. Then wipe the base of the bulb with a rag impregnated with dielectric grease - that should fix it.
(Repeat for all other bulbs at your discretion!).
For the most part, yes.
In general, the lights on MINIs & BMWs are pretty sloppily constructed. On many early MINIs, there was arcing between the circuit board plug & the bulb contacts. The result was melted plastic & the potential for a fire. BMW owners have similar issues.
I imagine your housing was replaced because that was the simplest way out; if not the most satisfactory. Presumably, the new housing is no different from the old one & ultimately has the same faults, as yours has.
If you can get everything secure, it should be OK.
In general, the lights on MINIs & BMWs are pretty sloppily constructed. On many early MINIs, there was arcing between the circuit board plug & the bulb contacts. The result was melted plastic & the potential for a fire. BMW owners have similar issues.
I imagine your housing was replaced because that was the simplest way out; if not the most satisfactory. Presumably, the new housing is no different from the old one & ultimately has the same faults, as yours has.
If you can get everything secure, it should be OK.
I've had the same issue, but after quite a while of 'false positives', now my right tail light has burnt out twice. At $20 a bulb, wondering if it makes sense just to get a new housing. Ugh.
Eric
I'd go back to the dealer, warranty or not. As an acknowledged fault he should be kind to you.
Otherwise, try the fix I outlined a couple of posts ago.
$25 for a simple bulb is daylight robbery!
I'd go back to the dealer, warranty or not. As an acknowledged fault he should be kind to you.
Otherwise, try the fix I outlined a couple of posts ago.
$25 for a simple bulb is daylight robbery!
Yeah, I had one bulb holder whose prongs were all bent up. Mine has now burnt two bulbs, so seems internal rather than a connection issue. Still need to have them do the driver's seatbelt recall thing, so will ask then.
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Yesterday I removed the bulb assemblies, cleaned the bulb holder contacts, bent them for a tighter fit on the bulb, and reinstalled.
It does make sense that the bulb could get electrically loose because the bulb is actually held in place tightly by plastic tabs, not by an electric contact as on an old-fashioned bayonet mount.
But ... 2nd drive I got the warning again. Sigh.
It does make sense that the bulb could get electrically loose because the bulb is actually held in place tightly by plastic tabs, not by an electric contact as on an old-fashioned bayonet mount.
But ... 2nd drive I got the warning again. Sigh.
Does the dashboard tell you which bulb it thinks is 'faulty'? If not, there may be an ODB analyzer that can.
Otherwise, I imagine it's guesswork to find another loose bulb somewhere.
(What's the number for these $25 bulbs?).
Otherwise, I imagine it's guesswork to find another loose bulb somewhere.
(What's the number for these $25 bulbs?).
It's something on the left side. I never pressed the brake pedal (it often happens when I first start the car, it's a stick, so foot is on the clutch, not the brake), so it's something that comes on with the taillights.
But I'm pretty sure it's a bumper-mounted taillight because every once in a while, I'll notice that one side is dimmer than the other when I open the barn doors while the car is locked.
All bulbs are actually fine, and the warning on the dash usually goes away within seconds of appearing. I was ready with my camera tonight.
But I'm pretty sure it's a bumper-mounted taillight because every once in a while, I'll notice that one side is dimmer than the other when I open the barn doors while the car is locked.
All bulbs are actually fine, and the warning on the dash usually goes away within seconds of appearing. I was ready with my camera tonight.
Update on this -- the problem has been intermittent since I posted this, despite futzing with the bulb holders to make better contact with the bulbs and applying dielectric grease.
Today I REALLY looked at the whole system. Turns out that there's clearly been some arcing between one of the bulb holders and the housing -- one of those contacts on the housing side had a lot of burn marks as did the plastic right behind it. After cleaning and scraping, the contact is now a bit smaller.
Interestingly, neither bulb holder (I've swapped these a few times now) had any arcing marks or damage.
Anyway, I cleaned and reassembled, and at least in the garage, that bulb is working now. But if it happens again, it's clear to me that I'll need to replace the entire housing (again).
Today I REALLY looked at the whole system. Turns out that there's clearly been some arcing between one of the bulb holders and the housing -- one of those contacts on the housing side had a lot of burn marks as did the plastic right behind it. After cleaning and scraping, the contact is now a bit smaller.
Interestingly, neither bulb holder (I've swapped these a few times now) had any arcing marks or damage.
Anyway, I cleaned and reassembled, and at least in the garage, that bulb is working now. But if it happens again, it's clear to me that I'll need to replace the entire housing (again).
You might consider using LEDs - Auxito & Morimoto seem to be decent error-free/canbus ones. They would draw less current which should reduce/eliminate arcing.
I'd still like to know the number for the $25 bulbs, please!.
I'd still like to know the number for the $25 bulbs, please!.
From Pelican Parts:
Bulb (12V - 24W) Clear with Black Socket Base(2017 MINI Cooper Clubman S ALL4 Wagon)(m)
Part #: 12182HTRC1-M335$22.25
My replacement assembly made a four hour drive, so hopefully it's all good.
Bulb (12V - 24W) Clear with Black Socket Base(2017 MINI Cooper Clubman S ALL4 Wagon)(m)
Part #: 12182HTRC1-M335$22.25
My replacement assembly made a four hour drive, so hopefully it's all good.
Another new light unit, I presume? I hope the dealer paid your gas money.
$22.25 a bulb is ridiculous for a simple bulb, although other vendors show $18 - $30.
I'd research eBay for > PW24W led < around $5 each.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+led&_osacat=0
$22.25 a bulb is ridiculous for a simple bulb, although other vendors show $18 - $30.
I'd research eBay for > PW24W led < around $5 each.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+led&_osacat=0
This stuff has solved multiple intermittent electrical lighting / contact issues for me with different vehicles:
https://caig.com/deoxit-d-series/
(And also intermittent cellphone charging problems, too!)
https://caig.com/deoxit-d-series/
(And also intermittent cellphone charging problems, too!)
Yep that's the stock bulb and aftermarket version.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/07119905467/
https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...h/07119905467/
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
Last edited by ECSTuning; Feb 22, 2023 at 02:01 PM.
Ya mine one is doing the same thing. It was working on and off and i took the bulbs out and clean the connections. it worked for awhile but now it's out completely. Have to order a new housing i guess.
I had the same issue and replaced the whole housing for ~$80. It came with new bulbs and problem solved.
https://www.genuinebmwminiparts.com/...tr=63217352159
https://www.genuinebmwminiparts.com/...tr=63217352159
We have an actual picture here of what it comes with.
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/63217352159/
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/63217352159/
__________________

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172

MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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