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Electrical Lost halos on LED DRL kit

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Old Feb 7, 2022 | 10:01 AM
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Lost halos on LED DRL kit

I have had the LED daytime running light retrofit kit (#63122338554) installed since 2015 and it was working fine until recently.
Just a few days ago I noticed the halo rings are not working any longer. No full circles when switch is in off position, no upper arch in other switch positions.
Fogs are working as expected, except no upper arch. Since both of lights exhibit the same behaviour I am not convinced it's the lights themselves.

Are there any fuses I need to check? Is it the control module gone bad?
Any advise it greatly appreciated!
 
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Old Feb 7, 2022 | 10:36 AM
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I think there is a fuse that goes to the control module, but if that fuse goes, none of the lights will come on. My guess is the LEDs have reached end of life. For the cost, they don't seem to last very long. I had one of my halos go out after a little over a year.

I yanked the whole set-up, and replaced mine with a set of these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/313333152832
 
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Old Feb 7, 2022 | 11:17 AM
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Yeah, the fuse question was just a shot in the dark - I am just looking for something easy I can check without going behind the bumper since it's going to be quite cold and dirty in the garage until winter is over.
There is one wire that goes from DRL control unit to the footwell module. Couple of times in the past the flimsy connector on footwear module misbehaved resulting in weird electrical issues that were fixed by reconnecting it. I was wondering if that might be a possible reason for the problem I have.
As for LEDs, it looks like I will have to measure voltage at their connectors to see if it's lights or control module.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2022 | 08:44 AM
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Since the weather warmed up a bit I decided to investigate the problem. Peeked under the hood, removed DRL control unit and I believe I found the culprit, or at least one of them.
There is a small plastic block on the wire that connects to the power distribution box in the engine compartment that is badly melted, so I guess the control unit is not properly powered.
Here is a picture of the part I am talking about:



This is a view of it from the product image:



It is the branch A2 in the installation diagram:


So question is what's that plastic block? Is it an inline fuse? And what might cause it to melt?
Anybody has an advise on how to prepare this?

I also need to double check other wires as the control module slid a bit possibly due to vibration and some of the wires seem a bit crimped, but it's hard to tell if they are damaged or not.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2022 | 09:08 AM
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That's the fuse holder
 
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Old Feb 9, 2022 | 09:29 AM
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I find it curious that the fogs still work with that fuse gone... I was under the impression that nothing would work if the module was getting power.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2022 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by njaremka
That's the fuse holder
Thanks for confirming! Wonder why would the holder melt before the fuse blow...

Any idea what rating it is supposed to be?
 
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Old Feb 9, 2022 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by njaremka
I find it curious that the fogs still work with that fuse gone... I was under the impression that nothing would work if the module was getting power.
There are two 2-pin sockets near the 6-pin one for each LED light. My guess is fogs are turned on and powered without DRL control unit involved.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2022 | 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by maccoder
There are two 2-pin sockets near the 6-pin one for each LED light. My guess is fogs are turned on and powered without DRL control unit involved.
The fog and running light sockets are jumpered into the control module. The only connector going into the fog housing comes from the control module.

Regardless, you should be able to stick a jumper into the fuse holder just to get the lights to illuminate to check it out. I'd be curious to see what that does...
 
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Old Feb 9, 2022 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by njaremka
The fog and running light sockets are jumpered into the control module. The only connector going into the fog housing comes from the control module.

Regardless, you should be able to stick a jumper into the fuse holder just to get the lights to illuminate to check it out. I'd be curious to see what that does...
It was the fuse issue! Since the fuse holder is damaged I had to cut it off the wire. Connected that wire directly to the fuse box terminal, key in ACC ON and voila - DRLs are working as expected in all positions!


Here is how damaged fuse holder looks like up close:



Managed to extract the remains of the fuse and it seems to be 4A:



Now need to get a replacement inline fuse and hook everything up properly.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2022 | 11:34 AM
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Holy crap! Glad you got it figured out for cheap!
 
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Old Feb 9, 2022 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by njaremka
Holy crap! Glad you got it figured out for cheap!
No kidding!
I really hope this is all that is needed and there is no hidden problem that is much worse - something made that fuse to really blow up after all...
 
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Old Feb 10, 2022 | 07:35 AM
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Added new holder and fuse to the line. Everything works as expected!



 
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