hello everyone
I just bought a '13 JCW Hardtop and I installed some led but I'm getting the error code on my screen saying the bulbs are out
Philips 194 T10 in the parking light (front)
Philips 39mm feeston for the license plate

Any idea on how to fix this other then installing resistors ?

Does anyone purchased or know of any good bright led that won't trow a warning

Thank you !

 

1st off, here's what I used in my 2012 r56....

reverse (damn do they light up everything behind you when put in reverse )

rear license plate lights -

my car is blue, so I used these for the under-dash/footwells on each side, the bottom of the doors (aka "puddle lights") & the center "cabin" light -

for the exterior turn signals on the side fenders & the interior center "map" lights (I left the map lights by the rearview mirror stock cause the LEDs were blinding in your face....not a good idea when you typically use them at night LOL). I also used them in the bumper-mounted round upper "parking" lights...which I've had "coded" to run all the time as DRLs (see attached pic)

also in the attached pic, you can see the LED strips I added for addl DRLs. They are "half-tapped" to the harness of the bumper-mounted light on the driver's side. I really like the look of them & heck they were only $8 LOL

noooooow to address the "bulb out" issue......I never had an issue with any of these giving me the bulb out error code, but they did "flicker" both at start-up & going down the road. The reason for this is simple yet quite irritating. At startup, the computer sends a small amount of voltage out to each each bulb. If it gets the voltage back, then it knows the bulb is there because of the completed circuit. If it doesn't get that voltage back, then the circuit is open (bad bulb) & it gives you that error code. It also does this "bulb check" randomly while driving...aka a warm bulb check. This small amount of voltage isn't enough to power on an incandescent bulb, so no "flicker" but LEDs require such little voltage to operate that they blink when it does this check.

I've heard of resistors working, but the "easiest" way to address it is to have it "coded" out of the comp. Not sure where you are located, but a dealer <should> be able to do this. In Philly, there is a place called Helix Motorsports that I had do mine ($75 ).

Another option is to use Carly for BMW....it's an app & you also need their OBD adapter. Do some reading on their website of all the coding things you can do
Company website - http://www.mycarly.com/product/bmw-app/
Apple Adapter -
Android adapter -
Apple App - https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/carl...467343427?mt=8
Android App - https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...whatFull&hl=en

Last option would be to do the coding yourself with a laptop & NCS expert...
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-yourself.html

 

I forgot to mention.....i tried using LEDs in the front turn signals & the rear brake/turn signals, but found the light output to not be as much as a difference versus the price of the bulbs.

My car takes (3) 7506 bulbs on each side in the rear plus a 7506 for each front turn signal & the significant cost of (8) 7506 LED bulbs wasn't worth what little brightness difference I saw from them *shrug*

 

Can you tell me how you coded the front parking lights in the fogs to be used as DRL's?