Electrical The Foot Well Module: functions, problems, solutions?
#176
Has anyone been able to update the "Factory I-Level" that is displayed in ISTA/P using BMW Standard Tools in the FRM module? This is important if you ever want to use ISTA/P again, especially when using non-LCI dump (or second-hand module) on an LCI car or vise-versa.
The only way I know to get the "Factory I-Level" (and other meta-data like paint and upholstery codes) correct is by using ISTA/P, but then you have to disconnect the FRM3 when ISTA/P is identifying the car and reconnect it when it wants to do the FRM3 reanimation. It would be nice to explicitly read it from CAS and write it to FRM3.
The only way I know to get the "Factory I-Level" (and other meta-data like paint and upholstery codes) correct is by using ISTA/P, but then you have to disconnect the FRM3 when ISTA/P is identifying the car and reconnect it when it wants to do the FRM3 reanimation. It would be nice to explicitly read it from CAS and write it to FRM3.
#177
what would be a close used FRM module for 2010 R55 for replacement, pic attached of one that's in car... current one has the no turn signals, no power windows, lights always on, starts up fine...
also whats everyone else using for software would this one work or???
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-K-DCAN-O...oAAOSwHMJYCDyh
Thanks Kevin
#180
Who has two thumbs and is joining the FRM party?
This guy.
So here's the story. Like many others it starts with a battery replacement nearly two months ago. No crank no start. Battery dead, found negative cable clamp broken in two. Replaced all parts everything seemed peachy.
2-3 weeks ago I noticed my drivers side OEM LED retrofit foglights halo was not lighting up in DRL mode. The passenger side was just fine.
Last week I checked the wiring for said foglights at the FRM where they tap into.
Big Mistake.
I should have remembered there is only 1 wire that goes to the FRM for the LED Fogs and that shouldn't cause 1 light to act different than the other, but hindsight is 20/20 right?
Any who after putting the trim back around the FRM thats when things went sideways.
Headlights stayed on no matter what and right turn signal did not work. After a series of trials I got the headlights to work correctly but turn signal did not work. Removed trim and checked connections. Turn signal now works!
Maybe 2 min later turn signal no longer works again
So I disconnected battery and removed module for about 10 hours. Reinstalled. Turn signals work again!
1-2 min later doesn't work again
Come to find out after a near rear end collision my tail lights and brake lights do not work.
So I take out the FRM again. Check connectors. Removed wires from connector and check each one to make sure they're not too loose. Reinstall and rechecked. Turn signal is back, but tail/brake lights are still a no go.
Then I think maybe all this fried my DEPO LED taillights. Reinstall OEM tail lights (See this is why I keep everything, I'm not a horder. I'm NOT!!) and they work!..... Sort of....
When headlights are on the tail lights light up the bottom half of the assembly. And when the brakes are pressed they light up the top portion of the taillight. So I'm no longer condemning the DEPOs.
So that's where I'm at. No right turn signal and tail lights that work goofy.
So FRM replacement? Can my FRM be REprogrammed? Or is it still a connection issue?
This guy.
So here's the story. Like many others it starts with a battery replacement nearly two months ago. No crank no start. Battery dead, found negative cable clamp broken in two. Replaced all parts everything seemed peachy.
2-3 weeks ago I noticed my drivers side OEM LED retrofit foglights halo was not lighting up in DRL mode. The passenger side was just fine.
Last week I checked the wiring for said foglights at the FRM where they tap into.
Big Mistake.
I should have remembered there is only 1 wire that goes to the FRM for the LED Fogs and that shouldn't cause 1 light to act different than the other, but hindsight is 20/20 right?
Any who after putting the trim back around the FRM thats when things went sideways.
Headlights stayed on no matter what and right turn signal did not work. After a series of trials I got the headlights to work correctly but turn signal did not work. Removed trim and checked connections. Turn signal now works!
Maybe 2 min later turn signal no longer works again
So I disconnected battery and removed module for about 10 hours. Reinstalled. Turn signals work again!
1-2 min later doesn't work again
Come to find out after a near rear end collision my tail lights and brake lights do not work.
So I take out the FRM again. Check connectors. Removed wires from connector and check each one to make sure they're not too loose. Reinstall and rechecked. Turn signal is back, but tail/brake lights are still a no go.
Then I think maybe all this fried my DEPO LED taillights. Reinstall OEM tail lights (See this is why I keep everything, I'm not a horder. I'm NOT!!) and they work!..... Sort of....
When headlights are on the tail lights light up the bottom half of the assembly. And when the brakes are pressed they light up the top portion of the taillight. So I'm no longer condemning the DEPOs.
So that's where I'm at. No right turn signal and tail lights that work goofy.
So FRM replacement? Can my FRM be REprogrammed? Or is it still a connection issue?
#184
#188
Sounds like the FRM functions like a car where the brake lights are separated from the tail lights, like an R56 LCI.
Usually a software failure of the FRM means it doesn't do anything anymore, but in this case I think it is still worth a try to code it using NCS Expert. You need to do that anyway if you install a used FRM, so why not try that first? All you need is a K+DCAN cable and some time...
Usually a software failure of the FRM means it doesn't do anything anymore, but in this case I think it is still worth a try to code it using NCS Expert. You need to do that anyway if you install a used FRM, so why not try that first? All you need is a K+DCAN cable and some time...
#189
#190
Sounds like the FRM functions like a car where the brake lights are separated from the tail lights, like an R56 LCI.
Usually a software failure of the FRM means it doesn't do anything anymore, but in this case I think it is still worth a try to code it using NCS Expert. You need to do that anyway if you install a used FRM, so why not try that first? All you need is a K+DCAN cable and some time...
Usually a software failure of the FRM means it doesn't do anything anymore, but in this case I think it is still worth a try to code it using NCS Expert. You need to do that anyway if you install a used FRM, so why not try that first? All you need is a K+DCAN cable and some time...
#191
Could be, there is no authentication such as there is between the engine ECU and CAS, but if there is any coding difference between the donor car and your car, like the in interior light package, puddle lights, xenon etc, you will have to code it to get everything working.
It is also a good idea to code the Vehicle Order and Integration Level, otherwise the car can never be used with ISTA/P anymore.
It is also a good idea to code the Vehicle Order and Integration Level, otherwise the car can never be used with ISTA/P anymore.
#193
I bought my cable years ago so I can't recommend a particular seller. Most cables come with NCS Expert, but this is most of the time a very old version that doesn't work on 64-bit Windows versions. With more recent versions, Windows 10 should not be a problem although I have always used Windows 7 (64-bit).
There is a sticky thread with all kinds of information, but you might want to check out the R60 thread as well since those links are still working and any software that works with the R60 also works with the R56 in my experience: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3979610
There is a sticky thread with all kinds of information, but you might want to check out the R60 thread as well since those links are still working and any software that works with the R60 also works with the R56 in my experience: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3979610
#194
Frm reprogramming
Sent my bad frm to luxautoelectronics, reprogrammed it, re installed it, everythings back to normal, no additional reprogramming just plug it in, had no power windows, lights on, etc..., also install new battery, although everything work before new battery, put new battery because won't hold a charge.
#195
Hi all,
I'm looking to replace a faulty FRM in an '08 MCS. I've been checking Ebay and I see some for sale from some European sellers (UK mostly). However, the FRMs come from RH drive vehicles but I need to put it in a LH drive car.
Would there be any differences in the RH vs LH drive FRMs? After reading this thread, I know I'd have to have the replacement FRM re-programmed but I dunno if there'd be any physical differences in the mounting of the module itself in the footwell, seeing as though one is for the left side and the other would be for the right side. Any insight would be appreciated, thanks!
I'm looking to replace a faulty FRM in an '08 MCS. I've been checking Ebay and I see some for sale from some European sellers (UK mostly). However, the FRMs come from RH drive vehicles but I need to put it in a LH drive car.
Would there be any differences in the RH vs LH drive FRMs? After reading this thread, I know I'd have to have the replacement FRM re-programmed but I dunno if there'd be any physical differences in the mounting of the module itself in the footwell, seeing as though one is for the left side and the other would be for the right side. Any insight would be appreciated, thanks!
#196
Who has two thumbs and no more lighting issues?! *This Guy*
Well, except for one little detail. My reverse lights don't work
The used FRM I bought off of Ebay came from Colorado. I installed it right away and everything worked without programming! I assume this must have come out of automatic MINI and that's why my reverse lights do not work. I'll deal with that compared to my other problems.
I'll eventually get around to actually programming this thing, but for now its nice to have everything else working as it should.
Unless.... do I just need to move a wire in the connector to a different pin #? man that would be too easy...
Well, except for one little detail. My reverse lights don't work
The used FRM I bought off of Ebay came from Colorado. I installed it right away and everything worked without programming! I assume this must have come out of automatic MINI and that's why my reverse lights do not work. I'll deal with that compared to my other problems.
I'll eventually get around to actually programming this thing, but for now its nice to have everything else working as it should.
Unless.... do I just need to move a wire in the connector to a different pin #? man that would be too easy...
#197
Who has two thumbs and no more lighting issues?! *This Guy*
Well, except for one little detail. My reverse lights don't work
The used FRM I bought off of Ebay came from Colorado. I installed it right away and everything worked without programming! I assume this must have come out of automatic MINI and that's why my reverse lights do not work. I'll deal with that compared to my other problems.
I'll eventually get around to actually programming this thing, but for now its nice to have everything else working as it should.
Unless.... do I just need to move a wire in the connector to a different pin #? man that would be too easy...
Well, except for one little detail. My reverse lights don't work
The used FRM I bought off of Ebay came from Colorado. I installed it right away and everything worked without programming! I assume this must have come out of automatic MINI and that's why my reverse lights do not work. I'll deal with that compared to my other problems.
I'll eventually get around to actually programming this thing, but for now its nice to have everything else working as it should.
Unless.... do I just need to move a wire in the connector to a different pin #? man that would be too easy...
The FRM info MUST be an identical copy of the CAS information.
In fact, the FRM info is a CAS backup, so I can't assure you that everything works correctly without:
1) Changing the "new" FRM VIN to the car VIN.
2) Setting the "new" FRM with the same VO configuration stored in your current CAS.
I have made this change in more than 10 MINIs (all of it using used FRMs) without any problem nor functional issues.
In all cases, ALWAYS, by changing the VIN and VO settings prior to driving the car.
Regards
The following users liked this post:
RoadTripMachine (09-24-2023)
#198
From
After jump starting my car and losing windows turn signals and interior lights I took the car to my local BMW dealer since there's no Mini dealers near me my FRM is bad. After reading all the threads on this I panicked. The people at BMW were great and let me k ow that part has a special extended warranty through mini they will cover cost of repair and labor up to 8 years or 125000 miles. Just a heads up for all since this seems to be a common problem
The following users liked this post:
godskid (08-29-2017)
#199
D-flash to eeprom
Hi,
I found several references where people were converting the D-flash to an eeprom image. The idea is that you save the d-flash using x-prog (selecting 0 eeprom sectors) and then convert it to an eeprom image. I could not find the programs, so I decided to dive into it myself.
I created the following conversion tool:
http://tlvps.tomvanleeuwen.nl/frm/
I have not tested it with an actual broken FRM yet, but the format seems quite straight-forward. If anything is wrong with it, I guess it will just return an old version of the eeprom image. At least the VIN and the "DEADBEEF" code is at the correct positions...
So feel free to test it and if you use it, please report back if it works.
Remember that I store all uploaded images, if you don't like that just download the source and run the Python script yourself.
Thanks,
Tom
I found several references where people were converting the D-flash to an eeprom image. The idea is that you save the d-flash using x-prog (selecting 0 eeprom sectors) and then convert it to an eeprom image. I could not find the programs, so I decided to dive into it myself.
I created the following conversion tool:
http://tlvps.tomvanleeuwen.nl/frm/
I have not tested it with an actual broken FRM yet, but the format seems quite straight-forward. If anything is wrong with it, I guess it will just return an old version of the eeprom image. At least the VIN and the "DEADBEEF" code is at the correct positions...
So feel free to test it and if you use it, please report back if it works.
Remember that I store all uploaded images, if you don't like that just download the source and run the Python script yourself.
Thanks,
Tom
#200
Lights Not Working after Disconnecting Negative Terminal
Thank you for such valuable information on your posts. My husband disconnected the negative cable on the battery to replace the knock sensor and the valve cover on our Mini (Cooper S, 2010, Automatic). When he reconnected the battery and turned the car on, the lights won't come on, including head lights, license plate lights, turn signals; plus the windows' power control won't work. Also, the red lift warning light came on. Is it possible to resurrect the FRM? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!
The following users liked this post:
komet155 (09-03-2017)