Electrical Please clarify- simplify!?!
#1
01-04-2013, 08:12 PM
Please clarify- simplify!?!
I don't want to re-code... I don't want to have to "modify"... just looking for a "plug n play" That wont through any error codes a bulb to replace the "OEM" fogs that are brighter then the stock ones, sorry if I'm just being lame but I read through some of the threads on replacing these and just ended up being confused
about what worked,there seems to be so many options. That being said can I just purchase a "H8" bulb and not have any issues? thanks for the clarification regarding this!
about what worked,there seems to be so many options. That being said can I just purchase a "H8" bulb and not have any issues? thanks for the clarification regarding this!
#2
01-08-2013, 10:04 PM
if you convert via a drop in HID kit of 35w, you will be OK
if you use another halogen H8 of 35w, you will be ok
If you run LED's you need to code out the warning
A higher wattage H8 isnt recommended as either the wiring may not handle the load?, or the housing may not handle the additional heat (ie cracking)
if you can find say a SilverStar or brigher/higher lumen rated 35w H8 halogen, you will appear to have a brighter output. Color alone can create a brighter effect.
The factory are a yellowish halogen of around 3200K(Kelvin temp), somethng in the 4300-6000K range would be a neutral white & somewhat brighter.
However, yellows (lower Kelvin spectrum colors) tend to illuminate actual fog better as they create some contrast
if you use another halogen H8 of 35w, you will be ok
If you run LED's you need to code out the warning
A higher wattage H8 isnt recommended as either the wiring may not handle the load?, or the housing may not handle the additional heat (ie cracking)
if you can find say a SilverStar or brigher/higher lumen rated 35w H8 halogen, you will appear to have a brighter output. Color alone can create a brighter effect.
The factory are a yellowish halogen of around 3200K(Kelvin temp), somethng in the 4300-6000K range would be a neutral white & somewhat brighter.
However, yellows (lower Kelvin spectrum colors) tend to illuminate actual fog better as they create some contrast
#4
01-19-2013, 11:14 AM
I would like to correct some misinformation here.
On the R60, you will need to code the fog warning out for 35W HID ballasts. Additionally, you should be using capacitors between the H8 connector and the ballast. The PWM signal sent will burn a ballast in only a few fires if not properly coded.
On 2012+ models, you will absolutely need a capacitor or one side will generally not fire on the first try.
On the R60, you will need to code the fog warning out for 35W HID ballasts. Additionally, you should be using capacitors between the H8 connector and the ballast. The PWM signal sent will burn a ballast in only a few fires if not properly coded.
On 2012+ models, you will absolutely need a capacitor or one side will generally not fire on the first try.
#5
01-19-2013, 11:17 AM
I would like to correct some misinformation here.
On the R60, you will need to code the fog warning out for 35W HID ballasts. Additionally, you should be using capacitors between the H8 connector and the ballast. The PWM signal sent will burn a ballast in only a few fires if not properly coded.
On 2012+ models, you will absolutely need a capacitor or one side will generally not fire on the first try.
On the R60, you will need to code the fog warning out for 35W HID ballasts. Additionally, you should be using capacitors between the H8 connector and the ballast. The PWM signal sent will burn a ballast in only a few fires if not properly coded.
On 2012+ models, you will absolutely need a capacitor or one side will generally not fire on the first try.
what size cap?
scott
#6
01-19-2013, 11:19 AM
Generally the cheap-ie "warning removers" will work just fine. They're generally 16v 4000uf capacitors in small boxes.
The PWM signal on the 2012 is notorious for burning cheap ballasts because of the initial voltage inrush (hot->cold->hot).
The coding is crucial, as without it the PWM will continue to cycle indefinitely.
The PWM signal on the 2012 is notorious for burning cheap ballasts because of the initial voltage inrush (hot->cold->hot).
The coding is crucial, as without it the PWM will continue to cycle indefinitely.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mini Mania
Drivetrain Products
0
09-10-2015 11:55 AM
Navigation & Audio Preamp low end signal attenuation?
ToThePublic
Navigation & Audio
9
05-31-2014 05:30 AM
irieman
MINI Parts for Sale
5
09-05-2013 06:32 AM