Have any other owners of 2010 MCS's gotten the AutoSport button to work?

I connected the power, gnd, and the sport wire to the the correct connector, and nothing.


Just thought I'd ask here first, before I call Matt again...

 

Nobody?

 

Got it working just fine in my 2010. For auto sport button, the instructions say fuse # 32, but it's now 34 in the 2010. The fuse, which is shown in the instructions, is now number 34. Same lay out, same fuse configuration as the picture, but number 34 instead of 32.

 

Did you connect the module to the solid blue wire? What wire did you tap into?

It seems it doesn't make any difference where the power comes from. Matt said that the instructions had you taking power from the power mirror fuse, that's where I went.

 

Yea, it was the blue one. Not 100% positive if it was "solid" blue, but it was blue. I'd have to tear back into mine to verify 100%. I do know I went to the exact blue wire that's shown in the picture. I'd make sure you have enough bare lead going into the tap.

 

Looks like I'm going back in...lol

 

any others run into this....



When you power the car, the LEDs should go through the Power Up sequence: One on, two on, all three on, then they flash. After a bit of time the LEDs will settle down to the state indication mode. For the Sport and Start/Stop channels, solid on means that the function is enabled, for the DSC channel, one flash means DTC, two flashes means eDLC . All off means that all channels are turned off. If you get the start-up behavior, then the power to the module is working properly (This confirms the power and ground connections, and that the fuse is getting power at the right time.)

1. Then test each channel. Since you’ve only got the DSC and the Sport button wired, here’s how they go:
2. The Sport button LED will change state after you release it when held for more than 5 seconds. If this is the case, then it’s wired correctly and has good connection. If it doesn’t change properly, then it’s at the Posi-Tap. Make sure that the Posi-Tap is grabbing on the conductors of the wire, not the insulation. This is the only way I’ve managed to get bad connections out of them. (BTW, the Stop/Start channel works exactly the same way.) If you pass this test, then the Sport channel is connected correctly.
3. The DSC works a bit differently because it can support more than one mode. When you release the button after holding it more than 5 seconds, it will flash quickly. You then tap the DSC button once for mode one, and twice for mode two. These taps have to occur during the fast flashing. If you do nothing during the fast flashing, the DSC mode control is turned off. If you can’t enter into DSC mode selection, then check the Posi-Tap there as well. If it passes this test, the DSC channel is connected correctly.
4. If everything is working well and you’re still not getting function, then it’s head scratch time, as everything is hooked up properly yet we’re not getting any function. This would be really, really weird as we’ve never seen this before! The only thing I can think of is circuit timing. We have a 5 second delay (I think it’s 5) before we do anything with the functions, so you can see if the car takes the sport mode command manually quickly by using the button like normal right after starting the car. If it works after a longer time, but not right after the car is started, let us know the time it takes for the car to get happy and we can program one with a custom delay for you. I’ve never seen that the button was ignored before, but MINI seems to make a bunch of changes without telling us, so I have no clue on this one, but it’s possible until it’s eliminated.

For truth in advertising, we have had one customer who needed a longer delay (his car hadn’t settled to proper idle when sport mode was engaged, and the car didn’t like it, but this was his MINI, not the circuits fault).

Matt

 

now all is well.

Matt

 

Yep, that was my problem. I had it hooked up to fuse #22. I did that after talking to Matt and he mentioned power mirrors fuse. Connected to fuse 34 and all is good.

Rich

 

I have a 2009 MCS (bought in July 2009) and I had to use #34 as well. It was the only 7.5A fuse in that column.