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Electrical Who has H13 HID KIT Installed?

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Old Mar 2, 2010 | 11:40 PM
  #76  
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It took forever but I think I am nearly done. I installed my load resistors tonight on the high and low beams on both sides. High beam bulbout is gone from both sides but there remains one pesky low beam bulbout . I am not sure which side it is. I checked the resistors and they are both getting hot. I will get the current meter out at work and check it out. If I am lucky it is just a residual warning. I have seen this before with the parking lights. This is the kit with the nice quality components but it has the harness and runs the lights off the battery.
 
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Last edited by smoke05S; Mar 10, 2010 at 04:40 PM.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 04:52 PM
  #77  
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It looks like the vendor for JCarlos's kit may have the bugs worked out. I am trying to get him to post so he can answer our questions.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2010 | 08:38 PM
  #78  
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Success finally guys! HID bulbouts are all gone. The problem turned out to be a splice that had backed out. The 6 ohm resistors on both high and low beam would have worked the first time if I did a better job with the splice.

OK the final run down on the H13 connector the center is ground, the outer 2 wires are for high and low beam. You splice a 6 ohm resistor between the two outer wires and ground, either the center conductor or chassis ground works just fine. To find the right kind of resistor, just search "6 ohm 50 watt resistor" on ebay and you will get pages of kits (Gold Aluminum heatsink, 6 ohm 50 watt with pigtails already soldered on and 4 splices), $12.99 is about average for 2 resistors shipped, you will need 4. Make sure your splices are all the way down and the wire did not back out. Also check your work (learn from my mistake!), on low beam one set will get hot and on high beam the other set should get hot. That's it problem solved!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 07:08 AM
  #79  
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if only they already had those resistors built in..too much clutter for me
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 08:54 AM
  #80  
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Yea I don't like it either. Now that I have the values dialed in I may relocate them out of the way. Give us some idea's, Where did you put your ballasts?
 

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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 09:15 PM
  #81  
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but I am having some issues with my kit.

I sourced the parts through ebay.

55w bulbs, 8k temp.

Warning canceler from ebay.

Well they power on but they flicker, highs dont work and of course bulb errors.


There are only two wires going in to the connector.

Ground center, red power to the right of it.

Do I need a third wire?

Should i send my kit back?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 09:55 AM
  #82  
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The ebay warning cancellor doesnt work. Try the one from DDMtuning maybe you'll have more luck. I just ordered a new kit from ijdmtoy.com Ill post how it works hopefully no bulb out code!
 
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 10:02 PM
  #83  
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Cool update soon and thanks.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 03:14 PM
  #84  
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bump for an update =)
 
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 04:06 PM
  #85  
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Update: So I ordered a kit it came wrong so i just got a refund. My original kit that I posted before with no bulb out code finally gave out all i really needed was new ballast and/or bulbs but anyway I had ordered a whole kit from ddmtuning like a year ago and never put it. It is a h13 bixenon 55w with a relay to the battery which I always wanted to avoid but it works great. The only problem is that it gives me a bulb out code but I really dont mind I can just order the code eliminator from DDM tuning. I will post pics later of the light output.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 02:11 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by jcarlos914
Update: So I ordered a kit it came wrong so i just got a refund. My original kit that I posted before with no bulb out code finally gave out all i really needed was new ballast and/or bulbs but anyway I had ordered a whole kit from ddmtuning like a year ago and never put it. It is a h13 bixenon 55w with a relay to the battery which I always wanted to avoid but it works great. The only problem is that it gives me a bulb out code but I really dont mind I can just order the code eliminator from DDM tuning. I will post pics later of the light output.
Please let us know if the code eliminator really works. I'm about to order a set of 55w H13's for my headlights soon as well. I was wondering if you ever had any problems with your hid fogs as well. Do you think it'd be safe to just order the h8 kit without the code eliminator for that or should i order it just in case?

edit: two more questions (sorry!) 1) did you order the slim kit or just the regular apexcone kit?
2) do you think it'll be safer to just order the H13 non high/low model and just stick with the regular H13 low beam one? thanks!
 

Last edited by NintenTom; Dec 23, 2010 at 02:20 AM.
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 09:14 AM
  #87  
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From: Westchester/Bronx, NY
Originally Posted by NintenTom
Please let us know if the code eliminator really works. I'm about to order a set of 55w H13's for my headlights soon as well. I was wondering if you ever had any problems with your hid fogs as well. Do you think it'd be safe to just order the h8 kit without the code eliminator for that or should i order it just in case?

edit: two more questions (sorry!) 1) did you order the slim kit or just the regular apexcone kit?
2) do you think it'll be safer to just order the H13 non high/low model and just stick with the regular H13 low beam one? thanks!

I dont have HID's in my fogs. I'm going to order the eliminator next week so i'll let you know how it works then.

I got the regular apexcone kit but shouldve got the slim one. I think if you get the high/low it would not have to run to the battery so I guess it is "safer" but i havent had a problem with my bi-xenon.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 02:51 PM
  #88  
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jcarlos914- First, whats up to a fellow bronx boy. Just got my '11 MCS and was hesitating on putting these in. Ive done a few cars and bikes without a problem but seems the mini is a bit of a hassle. Let us know and I know the weather isnt helping.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 07:51 PM
  #89  
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whats up automan its cool to see another bronx person here too bad the snow is killin us!!

There is really nothing to it...its just like any hid kit on any car or bike. The only thing is that the plastic covers behind the headlight housing have to be trimmed a little to let the wires run through. Other than it you just use a good ground I used the one down towards the center (I'll take pics). Then just run the relay to the battery which still closes easily. Most kits that run to the battery do not use both headlight connections so that is why you get a bulb out code which just beeps when the car comes on and disappears so it doesnt bother me.

I dont know what the dealer would say but I just take it out right before I go to the dealer and put my stock bulbs in.

I'll take pics of everything tomorrow to show how easy it really is.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 08:43 PM
  #90  
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Hi Jcarlos,

Long time no hear from. Take some pics of that error cancel pack. I am curious if they have a plug an play solution now and where it goes. I have had good luck with my relay harness kit and resistors for a solid year now, but if there is a cleaner solution I am all ears. I have another Mini that needs these mods.

One more question to all. I am about to take the 09 in for its first service next month, anyone have any stealer problems with modded HID lights or LED's?

update: No problem at the stealer today with the HID mod. They were too busy trying to tell me that my tires need rotating and an alignment and how that is not covered under warranty or the extended maintenance plan that I got suckered into. Seems like service is not the same as when we got the 05 MCS. The attitude in that dept has changed.

M_Motoring, sounds like you got a standard kit with no relay harness and not a bixenon kit. Take it back if you can. The kit you need will use all three wires on one side to actuate hi and low beam. It will pull power from the battery though. The ballasts will be the same as the standard single xenon but the bulbs will have an extra set of wires coming off them to actuate the high beam. The relay harness draws straight from the battery so you wont get any flicker and the lights will be their absolute brightest. To stop the bulbout (since you are no longer pulling full power from both the stock headlight plugs) some resistance needs to be added to the 12 volt side (at the stock plug) between the hi and low beams and ground on driver and passenger sides (4 resistors). J Carlos may have a plug and play solution though so read on.
 

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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 09:04 PM
  #91  
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I think the error cancel just plugs in between the ballast and the bulb I'm not sure I haven't ordered it. When I do get it which should be very soon I will def post pics and let you guys know how it works.

I haven't taken it to the dealer with the kit but when I do go I think I'll just take it off it only takes 2 seconds. I am not sure what they could say but since it clearly has a wire running to the battery I'm sure they will think of something.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2010 | 02:13 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by jcarlos914
I think the error cancel just plugs in between the ballast and the bulb I'm not sure I haven't ordered it. When I do get it which should be very soon I will def post pics and let you guys know how it works.

I haven't taken it to the dealer with the kit but when I do go I think I'll just take it off it only takes 2 seconds. I am not sure what they could say but since it clearly has a wire running to the battery I'm sure they will think of something.
I was just wondering. Where do you install the ballast on each side of the car? Under the headlight housing? Could you maybe take a picture when you have time? Thanks!
 
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 03:27 PM
  #93  
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Well while we are waiting for jcarlos914 to get back to us I will be ordering a set of the H8 for the foglights in 3k(yellow) color. Even if it results in a bulb out warning I suppose it doesnt matter since its a fog light and the bulb out should go away once the fogs are turned off.......i hope.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 09:29 PM
  #94  
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You won't get a bulb out code for changing the fog light bulb. I recommend the Nokya bulbs in yellow they are nice and bright. Also change the parking lamp to their matching yellow w5w bulbs. That's the bulbs I use in my fogs.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 10:07 PM
  #95  
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Let's hope that storm clears up in the east coast so jcarlos can get those pics up for us.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 10:41 AM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by jcarlos914
You won't get a bulb out code for changing the fog light bulb. I recommend the Nokya bulbs in yellow they are nice and bright. Also change the parking lamp to their matching yellow w5w bulbs. That's the bulbs I use in my fogs.
No i meant changing the fog light bulbs to hids with ballats and everything. I have a set of hids (h13)for the headlights just waiting for jcarlos to let us know lol.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 12:11 PM
  #97  
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I don't think it is necessary to do a whole hid for the fog's the bulbs are really bright and I have no idea where you would put the ballasts down there. I'm sure it could be done tho. Good luck let us know how it goes.

Pics will be up probably sunday.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2011 | 08:35 PM
  #98  
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any updates on the pics jcarlos? also how did the fog install go automan?
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 04:22 AM
  #99  
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I was sent the wrong bulb size. Im awaiting the new set. Theres a lot of room to get to the foglight housing once you rmove the headlight assembly.
 
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 11:08 AM
  #100  
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Sorry for the delay guys just been really busy here are some pics:

The ballast slide right beside the housing without a problem.

This is the way I cut the cover to let the wires slide through:




Wire harness running behind the intake zip tied:


This next pic shows the connection to the original socket this is why there is a bulb out code thrown because it only is connected to one side and not both:


Connected to the battery:


And the ground I chose to use:
 
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