Electrical Driving Lights
Driving Lights
The "Factory" (Dealer-installed, actually) driving lights are not really all that bright compared to the Xenon headlights. Does anyone know of a brighter bulb that will fit? Or another lamp style that would mount on the original brackets?
Thanks,
Keith
2007 MCS R56
Thanks,
Keith
2007 MCS R56
The stock driving light bulbs are 55-Watt H3 bulbs. You can get 85-Watt H3 bulbs from PIAA and other sources that will be brighter. They'll also be a little "whiter" to better match your Xenons. My wife and I have the Hoen "Xenonmatch" 55-Watt bulbs in our driving lights. They're not any brighter, but the stock bulbs just looked so yellow next to the Xenons.
If you go with the 85-Watt replacements, you shouldn't have any problems with the driving lights themselves, since the lenses are glass and the housings are steel, but I would upgrade the wiring from the lights to the fuse with some heavier-gauge wire.
If you go with the 85-Watt replacements, you shouldn't have any problems with the driving lights themselves, since the lenses are glass and the housings are steel, but I would upgrade the wiring from the lights to the fuse with some heavier-gauge wire.
The stock driving light bulbs are 55-Watt H3 bulbs. You can get 85-Watt H3 bulbs from PIAA and other sources that will be brighter. They'll also be a little "whiter" to better match your Xenons. My wife and I have the Hoen "Xenonmatch" 55-Watt bulbs in our driving lights. They're not any brighter, but the stock bulbs just looked so yellow next to the Xenons.
If you go with the 85-Watt replacements, you shouldn't have any problems with the driving lights themselves, since the lenses are glass and the housings are steel, but I would upgrade the wiring from the lights to the fuse with some heavier-gauge wire.
If you go with the 85-Watt replacements, you shouldn't have any problems with the driving lights themselves, since the lenses are glass and the housings are steel, but I would upgrade the wiring from the lights to the fuse with some heavier-gauge wire.
Hi - I'm interested in knowing if anyone has a guide/link to some documentation on how to get access to the bulbs/driving lights housing on the R56 Mini Cooper S? One of my bulbs just blue and the housing has quite a bit of condensation after some heavy rainfall.
I don't know if the construction of the driving lights has changed since the first-gen cars, but on my 2006, there's a Philips screw at the bottom edge of the chrome trim ring. After removing that screw, pulling outward on the bottom of the chrome ring will dislodge the chrome ring and the lens. The bulb itself is held in place with a spring clip arrangement.
I'm glad you asked this, because I didn't realize the OP had an R56. I can't confirm that the R56 still uses H3 bulbs for the driving lights, so my initial post may have been worthless.
I'm glad you asked this, because I didn't realize the OP had an R56. I can't confirm that the R56 still uses H3 bulbs for the driving lights, so my initial post may have been worthless.
Not sure but maybe Sylvania Silver Star's would be best for this. They manufacture bulbs of oem same wattages but have more illumination with out added heat.
I've run the SilverStars in a couple of my other cars, and while they're a better visual match for Xenon lights, I'm not convinced they actually throw more light than other incandescent bulbs of the same wattage. They're cheap, though, so you might want to toss in a pair and see if they'll do the trick for you.
Oh, and to answer the OP's other question, the factory driving light brackets aren't compatible with aftermarket bulb housings. Likewise, you can't mount the MINI driving lights on other companies' brackets.
Oh, and to answer the OP's other question, the factory driving light brackets aren't compatible with aftermarket bulb housings. Likewise, you can't mount the MINI driving lights on other companies' brackets.
Last edited by ScottRiqui; Apr 6, 2009 at 01:54 PM.
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The PIAA website says their 85W H3's have been discontinued. And I feel awfully hesitant about re-wiring in the MINI, or even going higher/lower in the wattage; I keep hearing about how finicky the computer is.
I'll take a look at some "whiter" 55W options.
Thanks everyone,
Keith
("Open the pod bay door, please, HAL")
I'll take a look at some "whiter" 55W options.
Thanks everyone,
Keith
("Open the pod bay door, please, HAL")
Okay - I found the installation instructions for the R56/R55 driving lights here. They do still use 55W H3 bulbs. Section 10 of the PDF gives instructions for how to disassemble the lights in order to replace the bulbs.
Thanks again

They have even recently upgraded them to Ultras, but I have not tried them yet.
The PIAA website says their 85W H3's have been discontinued. And I feel awfully hesitant about re-wiring in the MINI, or even going higher/lower in the wattage; I keep hearing about how finicky the computer is.
I'll take a look at some "whiter" 55W options.
Thanks everyone,
Keith
I'll take a look at some "whiter" 55W options.
Thanks everyone,
Keith
No, I never noticed any difference like that, but perhaps my standard bulbs weren't as sickly as the ones that Sylvania is using for their comparison baseline.
SilverStars have a horrible lifetime - only have a 350 hour lifetime rating.
That's why for my headlamps, I went with the Philips X-treme white bulbs instead and love them. I know you guys are talking driving/fog light bulbs but they are manufactured for the same # of hours.
That's why for my headlamps, I went with the Philips X-treme white bulbs instead and love them. I know you guys are talking driving/fog light bulbs but they are manufactured for the same # of hours.
Keith
bulb replacement
One point to note, before you take the lamp apart make sure you have a T8H torques ( hollow tip version). You will need this to remove the ground wire and hold down for the bulb. I hope this saves some of you some time. Take it easy, But take it Ken R.
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