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Electrical Replace R56 Non-HiFi (Boost) Speakers, NO AMP?

Old Jan 20, 2009 | 01:16 PM
  #1  
venious's Avatar
venious
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Replace R56 Non-HiFi (Boost) Speakers, NO AMP?

I'm leaning towards replacing the stock front door speakers with Sony GT1625A 6 1/2" speakers. The RMS power range is 2-40w. However, given that the stock system only has 15w per channel and limited to 50 Hz-14,000 Hz, I'd guess these would not even get exercised and they would be a waste of money.
  1. Does anyone have any other suggestions for replacement speakers based on experience? I'd like to keep the cost of replacement at around $100.00, but I also don't want to waste money if the sound isn't going to be any better without amplifying that limited range.
  2. Has anyone amplified the signal directly from the head unit, bypassing whatever amp is in there, and had results that are closer to the HiFi bandwidth? (40 Hz to 20,000 Hz)
Thanks!
 
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 01:22 PM
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Many, MANY people on this thread have chosen Focals, JLs, or Sonys for alternate speakers; many of us chose not to add an amp and were not disappointed with the results.

$100 may be a little on the low-end, but under $200 (four fronts or two front/two back) is very doable.
 

Last edited by basil49; Jan 20, 2009 at 01:30 PM.
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 01:25 PM
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From: nyc
Originally Posted by venious
I'm leaning towards replacing the stock front door speakers with Sony GT1625A 6 1/2" speakers. The RMS power range is 2-40w. However, given that the stock system only has 15w per channel and limited to 50 Hz-14,000 Hz, I'd guess these would not even get exercised and they would be a waste of money.
  1. Does anyone have any other suggestions for replacement speakers based on experience? I'd like to keep the cost of replacement at around $100.00, but I also don't want to waste money if the sound isn't going to be any better without amplifying that limited range.
  2. Has anyone amplified the signal directly from the head unit, bypassing whatever amp is in there, and had results that are closer to the HiFi bandwidth? (40 Hz to 20,000 Hz)
Thanks!
lots of info in the nav/audio forum. for what it's worth, i replaced my non-hifi fronts with JL TR650-CXi. such a difference. i really couldn't believe it. i'm not an audiophile by any means, but the sound was much clearer and fuller with surprising bass.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 12:45 PM
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I've read most of the articles here regarding speakers, and I think I'm experiencing information overload at the moment. Thanks for the assurance on the head unit though. I've decided on either the Infinity Reference 6022si or Infinity Reference 6022i

My plan was to just disable the 4" mid-range though, and give all the channel's power to the 6.5s.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by venious
My plan was to just disable the 4" mid-range though, and give all the channel's power to the 6.5s.
Not a bad choice; probably half the folks replacing speakers do the same, and spend the savings either on "new rears" OR "rears and a subwoof". It really does come down to taste and/or another $75-100 or so for the front uppers.
 
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Old May 19, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by basil49
Not a bad choice; probably half the folks replacing speakers do the same, and spend the savings either on "new rears" OR "rears and a subwoof". It really does come down to taste and/or another $75-100 or so for the front uppers.
Not having a schematic...
Does the standard amp have separate amps for the main and mid drivers?
In other words, If I out in the Pioneer TSA1702 separates, driven off the lower speaker wires, am I wasting a pair of amps? I could rewire the pioneer crossover to be independent and use both sets of leads.

Any tips out there on where to stuff the crossovers? I have not pulled the doors apart yet. I really hope I don't have to put them under the dash and run more wire.
 
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Old May 20, 2010 | 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by tvrgeek
Not having a schematic...
Does the standard amp have separate amps for the main and mid drivers?
As they are talking about the NON-HIFI there are only 4 channels each front channel drives both speakers in the door.

Originally Posted by tvrgeek
In other words, If I out in the Pioneer TSA1702 separates, driven off the lower speaker wires, am I wasting a pair of amps? I could rewire the pioneer crossover to be independent and use both sets of leads.
If you have the HiFi system it is different then there is one channel driving the 6.5 and another channel driving the 4" and tweeter. These channels are NOT full range.


Originally Posted by tvrgeek
Any tips out there on where to stuff the crossovers? I have not pulled the doors apart yet. I really hope I don't have to put them under the dash and run more wire.
Depending on the system you have (non HiFi or HiFi) as to whether you will want to use the crossover.

If you have the Non-HiFi then you may be able to put the crossovers inside the inner door handles if they are small enough. Some people have done that. With the windows down there really is not other room for a crossover.

If you have the HiFi then adding the crossover to a channel that does not have full spectrum does you no good. The channels on the HiFi are already crossed over in the amp.

Go over to the NAV and Audio section there is tones of info there. In fact this is where this thread should be.

Here is one thread that can help you with posible placement and running of wires if the crossovers are to big to fit in the door handles. It is a few posts down.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-upgrades.html

Can a moderator move this thread to the NAV and Audio section please.
 
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Old May 21, 2010 | 06:41 PM
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I have a 2009 MCS non hifi system and I replaced mine with Infinity. If I had to do it over again I would have tried the Polks. The Infinity's are a bit too bright for me but I have now found the sweet spot with the treble and base.
 
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Old May 25, 2010 | 10:10 PM
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There is a thread in the "how to" section that might be of interest to everyone here. It turns out on the non HIFI systems the front speakers receive a full range signal but the rear has a sharp rolloff at 50Hz, or was that 100 Hz? In other words the speakers that can't handle the bass are being fed the bass where the rear 6 x 9 is not fed any bass. Play with your fader to confirm. There is a way to reverse the front and rear speakers by moving conductors in a connector near the drivers knee. Once this is done the fader will work backwards, if you have bluetooth the phone will come thru the rear speakers (which is supposed to work fine), but the amount of bass that is produced is dramatically increased and it can take some volume unlike before.

I know, just enough info to be dangerous but not enough to do anything! The thread is complete with a parts list, a list of tools, complete photos and step by step instructions. It is very thorough, written and tested by an engineer who has the equipment and know how to answer any question too. If I can find the thread I will update this message with a link.

update:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nnel-swap.html

In case this link does not work this is like the third thread on the first page of the how to generation II section (look for front rear channel swap).
 

Last edited by smoke05S; May 25, 2010 at 10:22 PM.
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