I bought a used STRI Boost gauge, and installed it, but it's not reading vacuum or boost. I'm sure the gauge is just fine, but I've followed all the install instructions to a "T" and I'm not sure where the problem is. I followed Alta's instructions.... (this is probably my issue right here...J/K guys )

I tightened all the brass fittings pretty tight, but didn't tighten too much b/c I didn't want to ruin anything. Is there a way to check and see it the fittings are leaking, or how can I narrow this down? Thanks!

 

Morning Bump...Anyone have any ideas?

 

I'm not sure. I've got a cheapo autometer gauge. I had some problems with the fitting popping off so I dismantled it and put zip ties around all the fittings. Now it's working perfectly.

Is it mechanical or electric? where did you tap the line?

 

The gauge is mechanical, and I followed Alta's directions. Under the FPR, the line that comes out goes over to the passenger side and connects into the intake manifold. That is where I tapped my line into....

 

Since it;s mechanical, theres not much that can go wrong... CHeck your vaccum line to make sure nothing popped off. After that, the only thing that could be wrong is the gauge itself....

I had an issue when I had an Autometer gague where the line popped off the T where I tapped into the FPR vaccuum line.... I had to ziptie everything to make sure they stayed on.

 

U'mm... the line I tapped doesn't go to the intake box i don't believe. The one I tapped goes to the fpr that is right between cylender 2/3.

 

THats the same line most people tap. It runs to the far side of the intake manifold.

 

Not the intake box, the intake manifold (underneath the intercooler, just beside the intercooler horn)

 

yeah yeah... you're right. I'm just going to take my sign and sit in the corner. duh manifold != airbox.

 

I'll pull the intercooler back off, and check all fittings. Does it matter how the "T" is set up? Like does one specific line have to come in or go out of the "T" or can they just be placed on the "T" how you want them to be placed?

 

It doesn't matter which way the T is fitted, just make sure it's "open" on all three sides and that you don't have any kinks in the line.

 

Chances are, the vac line is kinked somewhere between the gauge and the tee fitting. You can check everything by removing the fitting from the gauge and testing the line with some other gauge or just touch the end to see if there's a vacuum there, you could also put your tongue to the end and you should be able to tell. You can also check the gauge itself by attaching a small tire or vacuum pump (hand operated) to it.

 

Thanks! I'll go out and stick my tongue to it, and see what happens (now that I think about it, last time someone told me to stick my tongue on something, it didn't turn out so well... )

 

Well, just checked the vac line, and there was no sucky sucky... I did however spot that my brass ferrule had been seated cockeyed, and had cut into my vac line, but even when unhooked from the gauge, there was no suction (at idle)... It looks like it's going to be an under the hood issue.

 

Another question, I'm gonna have to pull of the intercooler to check all those lines, can I start the car and check for a suction off that "T" without the intercooler on there? I realize it's not the best thing to do, but I figured a couple second run, wouldn't hurt anything. Hmm...

 

No. And that is a VERY bad idea...

 

That's the problem I had with my STRI gauge. The T connector was closed. I had to drill through it. Easy way to check is take the T off and blow through it. If no air is escaping it's time to drill it open. Check all three ends, only one of mine was closed off.

 

Without the IC you should get all sorts of pretty lights on the dash - not to mention I don't think it would run.
In a non-MINI application, I used a Mighty-Vac to apply pressure and vacuum from the tap site just to make sure it was working.
Sounds like golden_child has it right.

 

The problem is most likely closer to the fire wall (unless the tee is plugged), where it was hard (for me anyway) route and tie off excess line. I didn't cut it until I had routed it through the wall so I had a lot of line to push through. I almost kinked in a couple of times. Even after it got through the firewall I then had to run it under the dash... It's easy to kink if your not careful.

Of course if you tied it off to tight while routing it under the hood, it could be pinched of there also.

I wouldn't pull the IC until you check every inch of the exposed line.

That's another reason I tee'd mine where it goes into the manifold on the passenger side, not at the FPR. It's much easier to check everything when you can get at it with everything installed.

 

Oh, and make sure the the hose to the FPR is secure. Mine always seemed to work it's way off.

 

LOL, glad to hear it could be something with the "T" itself. I've checked all the exposed areas of the vacuum line, and nothing is kinked. Under the dash, I thought I made sure non of it was kinked, but under the intercooler (once I take it off) I'll know more. Thanks for the help so far, and hopefully, Golden_Child was right.

 

WooHoo. Fixed. It ended up being the "T". It was closed on one end But a simple drill bit, and opening the whole, and I'm back on the road. Thanks to those who chimed in. Now I just need to figure out why I'm only boosting 13 PSI with a 15% pulley...

 

 

i boost to 20 or 21 lbs on my autometer gauge (electronic)with a 17% pulley. And it did the same on my other car. I definitely think the map sensor is way off.

 

On my car or yours? What would the MAP sensor have to do with anything (seriously don't know).