Electrical Back-up Camera Wiring
Back-up Camera Wiring
I have a back-up camera on order. Instead of mounting the camera on the license plate via the supplied bracket, I plan to mount the camera under the wing/spoiler. Actually, that doesn't matter for the purposes of this post, since both the wing and license plate are on the hatch. My question: Does anyone know how to run the activation wire from the hatch to the reverse light? If so, a step-by-step would be appreciated. Pics even better! Thanks!
I can't offer much help for the R56, but if the hatch configuration isn't too much different, you can see how they routed the wiring for the 1st gen MINI OEM camera: http://www.motoringfile.com/files/rear_camera.pdf.
Your general approach should be to take off the interior panels of the hatch and C-pillar, and run the wire along the same path where you see existing harnesses. In particular, the wire for the 3rd brake light should run directly to the taillight. In the 1st gen, the reverse light is on a blue/yellow wire in the taillight harness.
Your general approach should be to take off the interior panels of the hatch and C-pillar, and run the wire along the same path where you see existing harnesses. In particular, the wire for the 3rd brake light should run directly to the taillight. In the 1st gen, the reverse light is on a blue/yellow wire in the taillight harness.
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That diagram shows BL/GE for the back-up light, which is Blue/Yellow. Those colors also happen to be the same for the 1st gen MINI.
Sorry, I was confused by the diagram. BL/GR (blue/grey) are the power wires going to the back-up lamps. BR (brown) is ground.
You can probably use blue/yellow as well, but that wire is probably not in the taillight area.
You can probably use blue/yellow as well, but that wire is probably not in the taillight area.
Is it the same for an automatic transmission? It's difficult to tell from the diagram as the automatic notation on it isn't even close to the manual transmittion info.
The auto/manual notation in the diagram refer to input signals going into the footwell module. The output from the module are the blue/grey wires.
I finally got my camera put in at Extreme Audio in Rockville. Do Not go there. This was a simple job. I would have done it myself except that my wife just got back from the hospital and I didn't want to take the time to do it and because I was not in the mood to spend an hour doing it in the 90+ heat and humidity. Well, it took these idiots 3 hours! Plus, they insisted they could only mount the camera on my license plates because it had the flanges made for that. Plastic flanges. Rather than argue, I said fine. I could always move it later. When they were finally finished I went home and noticed my car was covered in dust. Three of the 8 clips on the rear hatch panel were not put on properly. The module for the 3rd brake light pulser I installed was left hanging. I quickly fixed those issues. Then, I took the camera off the license plate, got out the hack saw and cut off the plastic flanges and mounted the camera under the lip above the license plate, just where I wanted it. It took all of 10 minutes total. I can't believe it took "pros" 3 hours to sloppily do a job I could have easily done in an hour. I'll post a picture in my gallery of the camera and monitor when it is light out.
LynnEl, what kind of backup camera are you using? Did it come with a screen?
I have this backup camera on my work truck. Works pretty good. Even works at night fairly well.
http://www.etrailer.com/p-086338.htm
I have this backup camera on my work truck. Works pretty good. Even works at night fairly well.
http://www.etrailer.com/p-086338.htm
Pictures are posted. The camera is a VR3 wireless, which does have a video screen. I positioned the screen on the left dash panel between the left a/c vent and steering column. If mounted directly against it, it would have pointed somewaht toward the drivers door. It was still viewable, but, I felt it would pick up glare and didn't look good. So, I bought some plastic wedges (that are used to steady furniture legs) and made two stacks of 3 wedges each and mounted them on the left side of the back of the video screen. The video is now perfectly angled toward the driver. As to how it works: Overall, I am pleased, but it's not perfect. There is a several second delay from the time I shift into reverse and the time a clear image appears on the screen. The image is very clear and detailed, though. I am also picking up some mild interference as, on occasion, the screen will blink or have static run through the image. But it's not bad enough to be a concern. When I shift out of reverse, the video shows a screen full of balck and white lines for several seconds until the screen turns off. I had read some complaints from people who said that after a rough winter, the camera lens had scratched. I put a piece of 3M clear bra material over the lens. I used a nickle to cut a circular piece, which perfectly fit. It is invisible both to the eye and through the camera. Some water drops were on the camera lens this morning, but the camera clearly showed the image through them. So, overall, I am very happy and I would say I should have installed it myself.
Minidrvr, that appears to be the camera I have, although VR3 does have several different models that look the same. There is no good place to mount the monitor in that holder, though, on the R56.
I have seen some interference as you mention. It operates at 2.4 ghz. There is a lot of stuff at that frequency. I am able to pick up some wireless security cameras across the street from a supply house I frequent.
I've never had so much interfence that it prevented it from working though. I wouldn't think a little Mini would have much trouble since the two are so close together. I have a lot of metal and about 15 feet between them in my truck.
I finally got my camera put in at Extreme Audio in Rockville. Do Not go there. This was a simple job. I would have done it myself except that my wife just got back from the hospital and I didn't want to take the time to do it and because I was not in the mood to spend an hour doing it in the 90+ heat and humidity. Well, it took these idiots 3 hours! Plus, they insisted they could only mount the camera on my license plates because it had the flanges made for that. Plastic flanges. Rather than argue, I said fine. I could always move it later. When they were finally finished I went home and noticed my car was covered in dust. Three of the 8 clips on the rear hatch panel were not put on properly. The module for the 3rd brake light pulser I installed was left hanging. I quickly fixed those issues. Then, I took the camera off the license plate, got out the hack saw and cut off the plastic flanges and mounted the camera under the lip above the license plate, just where I wanted it. It took all of 10 minutes total. I can't believe it took "pros" 3 hours to sloppily do a job I could have easily done in an hour. I'll post a picture in my gallery of the camera and monitor when it is light out.
I'm thinking of wiring a wireless camera to the license plate lights instead. Anyone know which color wires to use? A bundle exits the boot handle. One set must be the latch release and the other the lights.


