Drivetrain 15% pulley question: Gas?
If they're torqued properly with some loctite the first time shouldn't they be fine? Maybe 3-4 times a year, but twice monthly seems like overkill
. I remember reading the threads about this, scared the crap out of me, but it only happened to a few people, assumingly because they weren't torqued properly to begin with.
. I remember reading the threads about this, scared the crap out of me, but it only happened to a few people, assumingly because they weren't torqued properly to begin with.P.s. I check mine using both my crafstman digital and crafstman analog with window and readout.
That's what I read, too on a few sites that spoke about octane and such. I alternated because there was an opinion that some of the higher octane products also contain additional detergents and such, however a recent peice I saw on the Today show compared several brands of gas and found that they're all basically the same (other than octane, of course). More marketing BS, I guess. 
The difference between mid grade and premium is only about a buck and change per fill up - for that price I'll pay the extra and have one less thing to worry about. Thanks so much for the comment though!
Rustboy: I don't seem to be getitng quite the MPGs as others report and timing retardation is likely the culprit - I'll try running a few tanks of Premium through Nano and see what happens - thanks again for running those numbers!

The difference between mid grade and premium is only about a buck and change per fill up - for that price I'll pay the extra and have one less thing to worry about. Thanks so much for the comment though!
Rustboy: I don't seem to be getitng quite the MPGs as others report and timing retardation is likely the culprit - I'll try running a few tanks of Premium through Nano and see what happens - thanks again for running those numbers!

)Check this site out
.http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html
And most welcome. Anything to quell the boredom -_-
.
Me too
. Where's a good place to get one cheap (That can be used for more than just the sparkplugs). Only one I found was like $95 at pep boys...
I know you need an extension to get into the spark plugs, but don't they make little magnetic ones that make it much easier to get the plugs out (I've seen some people just use those giant magnetic extendo-wands)? And what size tool do you need for the plugs.
. Where's a good place to get one cheap (That can be used for more than just the sparkplugs). Only one I found was like $95 at pep boys... I know you need an extension to get into the spark plugs, but don't they make little magnetic ones that make it much easier to get the plugs out (I've seen some people just use those giant magnetic extendo-wands)? And what size tool do you need for the plugs.
for basic stuff and stuff including spark plugs i'd guess the harbor freight ones would work. a basic 3/8 drive torque wrench would serve you well. If you want to do serious stuff drop the cash and get a craftsman one with the little window dial thingy. That's the one iv'e got and I don't regret the $85 at all.
Also you can get deep socket with a rubber bladder (no idea what else to call it) that will hold the plug in there for you so it comes right out and in without dropping it. This along with a 3/8 socket extension or wobble extension will serve you well for spark plug checking and various other torque checks in your car.
Also you can get deep socket with a rubber bladder (no idea what else to call it) that will hold the plug in there for you so it comes right out and in without dropping it. This along with a 3/8 socket extension or wobble extension will serve you well for spark plug checking and various other torque checks in your car.
for basic stuff and stuff including spark plugs i'd guess the harbor freight ones would work. a basic 3/8 drive torque wrench would serve you well. If you want to do serious stuff drop the cash and get a craftsman one with the little window dial thingy. That's the one iv'e got and I don't regret the $85 at all.
Also you can get deep socket with a rubber bladder (no idea what else to call it) that will hold the plug in there for you so it comes right out and in without dropping it. This along with a 3/8 socket extension or wobble extension will serve you well for spark plug checking and various other torque checks in your car.
Also you can get deep socket with a rubber bladder (no idea what else to call it) that will hold the plug in there for you so it comes right out and in without dropping it. This along with a 3/8 socket extension or wobble extension will serve you well for spark plug checking and various other torque checks in your car.
Also you can get deep socket with a rubber bladder (no idea what else to call it) that will hold the plug in there for you so it comes right out and in without dropping it. This along with a 3/8 socket extension or wobble extension will serve you well for spark plug checking and various other torque checks in your car.
) and shell and lets sayyy....arco. All in all, do what you will. It's your car, but she'll love you more if you give her the right stuff
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Antiseize is what I use (and I believe is generally used) on spark plugs - according to Tech Guys :
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I didn't install my spark plugs, they were done by the shop (Steve's Auto Clinic) that installed my pulley. I can only assume they were installed correctly. Maybe i'm thinking of something else... not loctite, but I was under the impression that you coated the threads in something to keep them from backing out? Of course I could just be dreaming
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Using copper anti-seize compound on your spark plugs is particularly advisable if your engine head is made of aluminum. It is not uncommon for dissimilar metals to cold-weld without proper precautions. Think of this as cheap insurance against costly head-work.
LOL... I knew I'd get a ton of "OMG - you use THAT gas?!?!?" replies, but I've also talked to a bunch of people running MCS's that use the same regime with no issues, so I thought I'd check anyway. I figured most answers would come down squarely in the "always use Premium!" camp, but thank you, rustboy for running the actual numbers - quite illuminating. 
As for MPG, I don't really check mine - I'd say that 80% of my driving is on short (less than 5 mile) trips at fairly low RPMs alternating with long, easy 30 mile highway drives 1-2 times a week, so I just fill up whenever I get low and don't sweat the MPG so much. I was sort of looking for an excuse to get better gas anyway, and this looks like it's it. I'll hear about it from the missus (she tracks every penny) but hey, it's worth it.
I just hope I don't have problems with the 93 like SayGoodby had. Oh, and the vendor that's installing my pulley also installs the colder plugs along with it, so that should help as well.
Thanks!
As for MPG, I don't really check mine - I'd say that 80% of my driving is on short (less than 5 mile) trips at fairly low RPMs alternating with long, easy 30 mile highway drives 1-2 times a week, so I just fill up whenever I get low and don't sweat the MPG so much. I was sort of looking for an excuse to get better gas anyway, and this looks like it's it. I'll hear about it from the missus (she tracks every penny) but hey, it's worth it.
I just hope I don't have problems with the 93 like SayGoodby had. Oh, and the vendor that's installing my pulley also installs the colder plugs along with it, so that should help as well.
Thanks!
That's why I sometimes mix in my MINIs. As long as it is not prolonged, I just do not see how it will hurt anything. I occasionally add "plus" to my wife's car, even though it's supposed to use just "regular"...with no nasty after effects, either.
Me too
. Where's a good place to get one cheap (That can be used for more than just the sparkplugs). Only one I found was like $95 at pep boys...
I know you need an extension to get into the spark plugs, but don't they make little magnetic ones that make it much easier to get the plugs out (I've seen some people just use those giant magnetic extendo-wands)? And what size tool do you need for the plugs.
. Where's a good place to get one cheap (That can be used for more than just the sparkplugs). Only one I found was like $95 at pep boys... I know you need an extension to get into the spark plugs, but don't they make little magnetic ones that make it much easier to get the plugs out (I've seen some people just use those giant magnetic extendo-wands)? And what size tool do you need for the plugs.
Harbor Freight has nice, cheap, reliable ones for around $15, when they are on sale!
My understanding has always been that your car will run ok on the regular and plus gas level. But it won't run optimally unless you use premium. So its always been a no brainer to me to use premium to my car is running as efficiently as possible.
Unless VW and BMW are getting paid by the gas companies to recommend premium then there's no reason not to believe that they know what they're talking about.
My VW mechanic told me to fill up with Chevron ever 3rd or 4th fill up to help keep the internals clean. Chevron and Shell both use the detergents in all their gas at every station.
Unless VW and BMW are getting paid by the gas companies to recommend premium then there's no reason not to believe that they know what they're talking about.
My VW mechanic told me to fill up with Chevron ever 3rd or 4th fill up to help keep the internals clean. Chevron and Shell both use the detergents in all their gas at every station.
Matt, I always run high test in mine. I filled one night late & put regular in by mistake.
The car seemed to run fine. I wasn't worried because I knew the knock sensor wouldn't let my engine be damaged. As far as additives go, at each oil change...5,000 miles for me...I put a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner in.
Hey folks, if you are worried about flying plugs check the torque when you change the oil. And...torque them cold. NEVER EVER put Loctite on spark plugs.
EDIT>>> Eric is right, just a small dab of anti-seize is a good idea for plugs. Especially when they are being put in an aluminum head.
The car seemed to run fine. I wasn't worried because I knew the knock sensor wouldn't let my engine be damaged. As far as additives go, at each oil change...5,000 miles for me...I put a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner in.Hey folks, if you are worried about flying plugs check the torque when you change the oil. And...torque them cold. NEVER EVER put Loctite on spark plugs.

EDIT>>> Eric is right, just a small dab of anti-seize is a good idea for plugs. Especially when they are being put in an aluminum head.

While there might not be much diff if you just drive a Buick, I have seen the differenc and people I trust say there is a differnce.
Matt, I always run high test in mine. I filled one night late & put regular in by mistake.
The car seemed to run fine. I wasn't worried because I knew the knock sensor wouldn't let my engine be damaged. As far as additives go, at each oil change...5,000 miles for me...I put a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner in.
The car seemed to run fine. I wasn't worried because I knew the knock sensor wouldn't let my engine be damaged. As far as additives go, at each oil change...5,000 miles for me...I put a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner in.
) over the years to accept that Chevron knows what it's doing WRT Techron.Would you only run detergent in your washing machine every 3rd or 4th time?
That said, I run the cheapest gas I can find in my old car, and it's got 203K on it.

I've also used Redline fuel cleaner in the old car on recommendation from car guys.
Last edited by Eric_Rowland; Apr 5, 2007 at 08:53 AM.
http://www.toptiergas.com/deposit_control.html
If you are using a Top Tier gas, then there is no difference. One of the requirements of Top Tier is that the same detergents be used in all grades. Read section 1.1 here:
http://www.toptiergas.com/deposit_control.html
http://www.toptiergas.com/deposit_control.html
...With mine in Phoenix, AZ, my car started pinging right after the 15% pulley install. There are a plethora of owners in AZ though that have 15-19% pulleys with factory software and have no problems whatsoever. To try to help, I tried the NGK Iridium plugs...no luck. Next I tried the JCW flash...no luck. Next, I started mixing in 100 octane with the 91 I was getting at Chevron or Shell (about 3 gallons per 12 gallon fill)...bingo...no more pinging, but, very expensive to fill up. The latest was the JCW injectors which seem to have solved the problem, plus my gas mileage has increased significantly. I no longer have to use the 100 octane (we'll see when the temps hit 110+).
No 93 in AZ....I have always used Shell or Chevron.
Agree with all of the above: use what the MFG recommends.
A word about octane boosters: DON'T!!!!!
Most of them (99%) will have a negative effect on your catalytic converter; as in plug it up. If you really, really feel the need for higher octane, drive out to the airport and buy some AVGAS. At 2-3 times the cost of premium, you will tire of this quickly; about as quickly as you notice that it really doesn't help that much on a pretty-much stock car.
If you are running a turbo-only and pushing 25lbs boost, by all means get the AVGAS. You gotta pay to play.
A word about octane boosters: DON'T!!!!!
Most of them (99%) will have a negative effect on your catalytic converter; as in plug it up. If you really, really feel the need for higher octane, drive out to the airport and buy some AVGAS. At 2-3 times the cost of premium, you will tire of this quickly; about as quickly as you notice that it really doesn't help that much on a pretty-much stock car.
If you are running a turbo-only and pushing 25lbs boost, by all means get the AVGAS. You gotta pay to play.






