Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain 15% pulley question: Gas?

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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:10 PM
  #26  
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From: Flying My Roflcopter
Originally Posted by rustyboy155
If they're torqued properly with some loctite the first time shouldn't they be fine? Maybe 3-4 times a year, but twice monthly seems like overkill . I remember reading the threads about this, scared the crap out of me, but it only happened to a few people, assumingly because they weren't torqued properly to begin with.
I check mine at least twice a month and out of the last 16 months I have found them looser then i torqued them orriginally twice. I have since gone back to the stock plug 6 months ago and have not seen this happen again. And when I say looser I mean 2-6 lbs/ft. I do not use locktite as I don't want it in the cylendars (not that it wouldn't just burn right up) and i think that area gets too hot for it to do anything. I could be wrong tho... Cheap insurance instead of a helicoil or new head.

P.s. I check mine using both my crafstman digital and crafstman analog with window and readout.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:11 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by ImagoX
That's what I read, too on a few sites that spoke about octane and such. I alternated because there was an opinion that some of the higher octane products also contain additional detergents and such, however a recent peice I saw on the Today show compared several brands of gas and found that they're all basically the same (other than octane, of course). More marketing BS, I guess.

The difference between mid grade and premium is only about a buck and change per fill up - for that price I'll pay the extra and have one less thing to worry about. Thanks so much for the comment though!

Rustboy: I don't seem to be getitng quite the MPGs as others report and timing retardation is likely the culprit - I'll try running a few tanks of Premium through Nano and see what happens - thanks again for running those numbers!
More important than octane is whether or not the gas company you use is top tier (Actually adds detergents to their gas )

Check this site out .

http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html

And most welcome. Anything to quell the boredom -_-
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:12 PM
  #28  
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That reminds me - I need a torque wrench... (sigh)
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:19 PM
  #29  
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From: SoCaL (Agoura Hills)
Originally Posted by Eric_Rowland
X2! A helicoil job would definitely dent the gas budget.
I think every 500 miles is a bit much, but definitely every couple of thousand.


edit: rustboy - loctite on spark plugs???!
I didn't install my spark plugs, they were done by the shop (Steve's Auto Clinic) that installed my pulley. I can only assume they were installed correctly. Maybe i'm thinking of something else... not loctite, but I was under the impression that you coated the threads in something to keep them from backing out? Of course I could just be dreaming .
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:23 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ImagoX
That reminds me - I need a torque wrench... (sigh)
Me too . Where's a good place to get one cheap (That can be used for more than just the sparkplugs). Only one I found was like $95 at pep boys...

I know you need an extension to get into the spark plugs, but don't they make little magnetic ones that make it much easier to get the plugs out (I've seen some people just use those giant magnetic extendo-wands)? And what size tool do you need for the plugs.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:24 PM
  #31  
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I've seen them at Harbor Freight for like $30 I think... I really should just throw down the cash and buy one.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:27 PM
  #32  
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From: Flying My Roflcopter
for basic stuff and stuff including spark plugs i'd guess the harbor freight ones would work. a basic 3/8 drive torque wrench would serve you well. If you want to do serious stuff drop the cash and get a craftsman one with the little window dial thingy. That's the one iv'e got and I don't regret the $85 at all.

Also you can get deep socket with a rubber bladder (no idea what else to call it) that will hold the plug in there for you so it comes right out and in without dropping it. This along with a 3/8 socket extension or wobble extension will serve you well for spark plug checking and various other torque checks in your car.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:30 PM
  #33  
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From: SoCaL (Agoura Hills)
Originally Posted by prime-drk-
for basic stuff and stuff including spark plugs i'd guess the harbor freight ones would work. a basic 3/8 drive torque wrench would serve you well. If you want to do serious stuff drop the cash and get a craftsman one with the little window dial thingy. That's the one iv'e got and I don't regret the $85 at all.

Also you can get deep socket with a rubber bladder (no idea what else to call it) that will hold the plug in there for you so it comes right out and in without dropping it. This along with a 3/8 socket extension or wobble extension will serve you well for spark plug checking and various other torque checks in your car.
As i've spent almost $3k on my car in the last month, i'm trying to be good and not buy anything else.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:42 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by prime-drk-
Also you can get deep socket with a rubber bladder (no idea what else to call it) that will hold the plug in there for you so it comes right out and in without dropping it. This along with a 3/8 socket extension or wobble extension will serve you well for spark plug checking and various other torque checks in your car.
We had these at the Honda dealership I worked at and they were AWESOME. Of course, all their tools came from Snap-on, so it probably cost $300 for the socket, but it was incredibly handy.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:43 PM
  #35  
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for ONLY premium. I've only had my MCS for a couple months, but I can even tell the difference in performance in gas from different stations, let alone a completely different octane. I don't know how the quality of gas is where you live, but here in Orange County, in my personal preference, there's a big difference between something like cheveron(with techron! ) and shell and lets sayyy....arco.

All in all, do what you will. It's your car, but she'll love you more if you give her the right stuff
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 12:53 PM
  #36  
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<hijack>

Originally Posted by rustyboy155
I didn't install my spark plugs, they were done by the shop (Steve's Auto Clinic) that installed my pulley. I can only assume they were installed correctly. Maybe i'm thinking of something else... not loctite, but I was under the impression that you coated the threads in something to keep them from backing out? Of course I could just be dreaming .
Antiseize is what I use (and I believe is generally used) on spark plugs - according to Tech Guys :
Using copper anti-seize compound on your spark plugs is particularly advisable if your engine head is made of aluminum. It is not uncommon for dissimilar metals to cold-weld without proper precautions. Think of this as cheap insurance against costly head-work.
</hijack>
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 01:05 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by ImagoX
LOL... I knew I'd get a ton of "OMG - you use THAT gas?!?!?" replies, but I've also talked to a bunch of people running MCS's that use the same regime with no issues, so I thought I'd check anyway. I figured most answers would come down squarely in the "always use Premium!" camp, but thank you, rustboy for running the actual numbers - quite illuminating.

As for MPG, I don't really check mine - I'd say that 80% of my driving is on short (less than 5 mile) trips at fairly low RPMs alternating with long, easy 30 mile highway drives 1-2 times a week, so I just fill up whenever I get low and don't sweat the MPG so much. I was sort of looking for an excuse to get better gas anyway, and this looks like it's it. I'll hear about it from the missus (she tracks every penny) but hey, it's worth it.

I just hope I don't have problems with the 93 like SayGoodby had. Oh, and the vendor that's installing my pulley also installs the colder plugs along with it, so that should help as well.

Thanks!
In YOUR defense, I actually had a salesman at MAG, in Columbus, tell me that "regular" gas is OK for a Cooper and that "plus" is OK for an MCS [just NOT to use his name]! That's why I sometimes mix in my MINIs. As long as it is not prolonged, I just do not see how it will hurt anything. I occasionally add "plus" to my wife's car, even though it's supposed to use just "regular"...with no nasty after effects, either.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 01:12 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by rustyboy155
Me too . Where's a good place to get one cheap (That can be used for more than just the sparkplugs). Only one I found was like $95 at pep boys...

I know you need an extension to get into the spark plugs, but don't they make little magnetic ones that make it much easier to get the plugs out (I've seen some people just use those giant magnetic extendo-wands)? And what size tool do you need for the plugs.

Harbor Freight has nice, cheap, reliable ones for around $15, when they are on sale!
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 01:52 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Eric_Rowland
<hijack>Antiseize is what I use (and I believe is generally used) on spark plugs - according to Tech Guys :
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 02:23 PM
  #40  
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My understanding has always been that your car will run ok on the regular and plus gas level. But it won't run optimally unless you use premium. So its always been a no brainer to me to use premium to my car is running as efficiently as possible.

Unless VW and BMW are getting paid by the gas companies to recommend premium then there's no reason not to believe that they know what they're talking about.

My VW mechanic told me to fill up with Chevron ever 3rd or 4th fill up to help keep the internals clean. Chevron and Shell both use the detergents in all their gas at every station.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 02:49 PM
  #41  
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Matt, I always run high test in mine. I filled one night late & put regular in by mistake. The car seemed to run fine. I wasn't worried because I knew the knock sensor wouldn't let my engine be damaged. As far as additives go, at each oil change...5,000 miles for me...I put a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner in.

Hey folks, if you are worried about flying plugs check the torque when you change the oil. And...torque them cold. NEVER EVER put Loctite on spark plugs.

EDIT>>> Eric is right, just a small dab of anti-seize is a good idea for plugs. Especially when they are being put in an aluminum head.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2007 | 07:01 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by ImagoX
I saw on the Today show compared several brands of gas and found that they're all basically the same (other than octane, of course). More marketing BS, I guess.
Oh no, taking advice on cars from the Today show?!?!?

While there might not be much diff if you just drive a Buick, I have seen the differenc and people I trust say there is a differnce.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 08:27 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Crashton
Matt, I always run high test in mine. I filled one night late & put regular in by mistake. The car seemed to run fine. I wasn't worried because I knew the knock sensor wouldn't let my engine be damaged. As far as additives go, at each oil change...5,000 miles for me...I put a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner in.
I was wonderting if that stuff did any good (or even possibly did harm). I'll check that out - thanks, Chuck!
 
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 08:48 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ImagoX
...however a recent peice I saw on the Today show compared several brands of gas and found that they're all basically the same (other than octane, of course). More marketing BS, I guess. ...
Our local news broadcast had a segment with a mechanic spouting the gas saving benefits of using the 'turbonator' - TV shows don't know their *** from their exhaust pipe. I sent them an email ripping them for giving out completely WRONG information to an uninformed public.


Originally Posted by PassatDoTd
My VW mechanic told me to fill up with Chevron ever 3rd or 4th fill up to help keep the internals clean. Chevron and Shell both use the detergents in all their gas at every station.
I'm sold on Chevron - I've seen enough from BMW weenies () over the years to accept that Chevron knows what it's doing WRT Techron.
Would you only run detergent in your washing machine every 3rd or 4th time?

That said, I run the cheapest gas I can find in my old car, and it's got 203K on it.
I've also used Redline fuel cleaner in the old car on recommendation from car guys.
 

Last edited by Eric_Rowland; Apr 5, 2007 at 08:53 AM.
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 08:52 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by thulchatt
While there might not be much diff if you just drive a Buick, I have seen the differenc and people I trust say there is a differnce.
If you are using a Top Tier gas, then there is no difference. One of the requirements of Top Tier is that the same detergents be used in all grades. Read section 1.1 here:
http://www.toptiergas.com/deposit_control.html
 
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Old Apr 5, 2007 | 09:50 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by aDeLoreanGuy
If you are using a Top Tier gas, then there is no difference. One of the requirements of Top Tier is that the same detergents be used in all grades. Read section 1.1 here:
http://www.toptiergas.com/deposit_control.html
Agreed with Top Tier, but others can be a problem.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 11:26 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by SayGoodbye
...With mine in Phoenix, AZ, my car started pinging right after the 15% pulley install. There are a plethora of owners in AZ though that have 15-19% pulleys with factory software and have no problems whatsoever. To try to help, I tried the NGK Iridium plugs...no luck. Next I tried the JCW flash...no luck. Next, I started mixing in 100 octane with the 91 I was getting at Chevron or Shell (about 3 gallons per 12 gallon fill)...bingo...no more pinging, but, very expensive to fill up. The latest was the JCW injectors which seem to have solved the problem, plus my gas mileage has increased significantly. I no longer have to use the 100 octane (we'll see when the temps hit 110+).
Well, my pinging issue came back during the 2nd tank of gas (from the same station)...on to custom tune or water/meth injection...
 
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 01:25 PM
  #48  
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i always use a good brand . sometimes i'll use 91 but mostly 93 . i have noticed my mileage is always better when using mobil . definately not a coincidence .
 
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 01:46 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by herbie hind
i always use a good brand . sometimes i'll use 91 but mostly 93 . i have noticed my mileage is always better when using mobil . definately not a coincidence .
No 93 in AZ....I have always used Shell or Chevron.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 06:58 PM
  #50  
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Agree with all of the above: use what the MFG recommends.
A word about octane boosters: DON'T!!!!!
Most of them (99%) will have a negative effect on your catalytic converter; as in plug it up. If you really, really feel the need for higher octane, drive out to the airport and buy some AVGAS. At 2-3 times the cost of premium, you will tire of this quickly; about as quickly as you notice that it really doesn't help that much on a pretty-much stock car.
If you are running a turbo-only and pushing 25lbs boost, by all means get the AVGAS. You gotta pay to play.
 
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