That is exactly what I am trying to find out. I've heard you can do it both ways. I'm hoping someone posts a secret to replacing it.

 

If I remember correctly, I could not remove the tensioner assembly by just removing the fender liner. The assembly would not clear the supercharger (when moving towards the front of the car) or the crank pulley (when moving down). I was replacing my crank a the same time, so once that was off, I could remove it and re-install it without issue.

Hope that helps.

 

No, it does not require jacking up the engine - at least not in a 2002 MCS.
If you have the Bentley Manual you can follow the guidelines there but otherwise here's what I did.

1. Jack up car so the right front of the car is up and kept up by jack stand(s). Remove passenger front wheel and wheel lining. Be careful to use a flat screwdriver to wedge, and hold behind the plastic wheel lining screws while you unscrew them with a phillips head.

2. Borrow or buy a Tensioner belt tool that will allow you to carefully and safely remove the SC belt. You might want to draw the direction and route of the belt before removing it if need be. Bentley manual has that drawing already.

3. Now (and this took the most time of the R&R) remove the two (2) 10mm head bolts. The furthest forward (to the car) one is the hardest to remove without some real time devoted to it. Take your time and don't lose these.

4. Next are the two larger bolts.
The tensioner should now be loose.

5. I was able to remove the tensioner by lowering the mechanism down and to the rear of the engine. Some have said this is too hard, others have said it is rather easy. hard to tell how yours will be. Where there's a will there's a way. Take your time again, patience has its rewards.

6. The new tensioner should have a small allen wrench in the holding strap to the spring on the mechanism. Keep this allen wrench in there. I had to remove it and replace it in a different direction so I could pull it out easier once I had the tensioner installed. Be careful as the spring is under some tension and could be dangerous! You will also find that wit the spring under tension the mechanism will go back in easier than the old one came out. Key here - maybe use an old allen wrench to put the old mechanism spring under tension before removal - I will next time.

7. Replace large and small bolts loosely until all can snugged up at about 25 ft. lbs. - a guess here cause few will be able to get a torque wrench in there without the engine completely out.

8. Replace belt with a new one - a good time to do that is right now. Good insurance no matter how old your belt is.

9. Use belt tensioner tool to route the belt as you had earlier found it.

10. remove little allen wrench that is keeping the spring from reaching full tension.

11. Start engine (don't be under it here.)

12. reinstall wheel liner and wheel and go for a smoother test drive.


Hope this helps - anyone can change this or add to it.

paul

 

Thanks Guys!

With luck I won't have to jack the engine on a 02/2003 build

 

according to chad at dt you don't need to do anything special on any of the 6spd mc's to remove the tensioner. only the mcsa.

he said he always moves the tensioner mechanism to the back to shimmy it out of the car.

 

That's what I like to hear

 

Well, here is an update:

Before I started unscrewing all the bolts I made sure I could get to them. I was able to reach all but one. I couldn't get a wrench or a socket to the 10mm bolt that sits just above the tensioner spring. What did you guys use? No, I didn't try to lift the engine.

Well, after bitching for a while and trying to figure out a solution I went to plan #2. I removed the old hydraulic shock/damper that had gone bad and replaced it with the new one from the new tensioner unit I bought. Anyone ever do this?

It seems to work fine. I guess if I ever decide to replace the rest of the unit I've got the parts.

 

Did you remove the fender liner?

 

Yup. Removed the wheel and fender liner. There was just to little room around and a little to deep for a combo wrench when the spring is compressed. And not enough room in front for a socket and ratchet, I only had room for either or, and neither are good alone.

 

Haha!!! It's all written right here. This is the one that was a pain to get off.

 

Just ordered my DT Tensioner stop

 

it's only a little price ($20) to pay for peace of mind.

http://www.detroittuned.com/products...20070112214410

 

Dont worry all. I got a couple of our best guys doing research to find a relatively inexpensive shock for the tensioners. I should have some very good info soon, and Wyvern Mini will be adding this to its parts list!

 

That's awesome because my shock it weeping..... Keep us posted CRRIKEY!

Jeremy

 

Anyone found a source for that little tensioner damper? I don't want to pay $160 or more at the dealer for the entire tensioner if I can get that damper elsewhere.

 

Can you share the source with us yet Naveshin? Cost?

Jeremy

 

Oh, I was asking... heh heh. Let me edit my post to add "anyone"

 

Any updates on the damper?
I might have to replace it as a preventative maintenance..
Oh how can you tell that the tensioner is bad anyways?
Mine seems to be fine, holding right amount of boost and all that.. (71k miles tho)

 

whats the cheapest anyone has found the whole tensioner for? The best I have seen is 114. anyone done any better? I am going to order one, and the DT stop as soon as I can confirm im not getting ra*ed.

 

An update..
I did find the MFG of the damper including part #.

I have now tried various ways to ge a hold of them.(some were almost James Bond- ish)

Even had someone go to the plant.

They are made under licence and BMW has them by the ... well you get it.

My next project was to find one close and even use a bushing or drill the eylets..

Sorry nothing yet ... not going to let this one just die though

 

where did you find one of them for 114? I got a quote from my local repair shop yest of 165 and then at least 2 hours of install. So i would say $400 total if they install but i really want to do the install myself but have no tensioner tool. i borrowed one to do the crank and supercharger pulleys but i dont have that opportunity anymore. damn.... there is a performance shop in florida that had them for like 130-140 but i cant remember the name of it.

 

Moss Mini had them for 119, not 114 sorry. I gave them a call and they were currently out of them. but still worth a try. their part # for it is: 103-012

hope that helps. I got mine from detroit tuned sense I was getting the stop as well. little more money but getting them soon was very important to me.

 

I bought and installed the tensioner months ago. I ended up paying full price at the dealer for the part. Not really a big deal anymore, I just wanted my car to work properly again.

 

I paid $132 from my dealer.

 

And to be clear the tensioner stop can be installed without taking the entire tensioner off and can easily be done when changing the belt?

Just checking as I have a belt and tension tool. Artoo has 75,000 miles and was wondering if I should get a stop before I do the job. But I really don't want to have to remove the tensioner to do it.

Rich