Drivetrain (Cooper S) MINI Cooper S (R53) intakes, exhausts, pulleys, headers, throttle bodies, and any other modifications to the Cooper S drivetrain.

Drivetrain re-ring

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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 05:50 PM
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herbie hind's Avatar
herbie hind
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re-ring

who's got enough miles on to start thinkin' what's gonna happen come time to re-ring? due to the coating on the bores i'm thinkin' we gotta re-sleeve? can we hone these cylinders? re-sleeving would suck.:impatient 66000mls. and counting.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by herbie hind
who's got enough miles on to start thinkin' what's gonna happen come time to re-ring? due to the coating on the bores i'm thinkin' we gotta re-sleeve? can we hone these cylinders? re-sleeving would suck.:impatient 66000mls. and counting.
I have 72000mls on stock sleeves stock crank and stock rods. The cylinders can be bored to .20 over. I currently only have 10% leak down.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2006 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by herbie hind
who's got enough miles on to start thinkin' what's gonna happen come time to re-ring? due to the coating on the bores i'm thinkin' we gotta re-sleeve? can we hone these cylinders? re-sleeving would suck.:impatient 66000mls. and counting.
The cylinders can be re-coated after an overbore, although overboring coated cylinders is rarely necessary. Nikasil and the similar coatings are amazingly durable, short of a catastrophic engine failure. I've seen 200,000-mile engines where you could still see the cross-hatch pattern from the bores being honed at the factory.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by riquiscott
The cylinders can be re-coated after an overbore, although overboring coated cylinders is rarely necessary. Nikasil and the similar coatings are amazingly durable, short of a catastrophic engine failure. I've seen 200,000-mile engines where you could still see the cross-hatch pattern from the bores being honed at the factory.
Yes, you see this with early 911s more often than not. I've seen 320k. The car wore. The cylinders? At that point I diden't look.
If the bores are good, don't touch them.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 06:57 AM
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No Nikasil coating in an iron block...
 
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 08:30 AM
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the block is coated? from what i understand the piston skirts are moly-coated.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 08:34 AM
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While the miles are high....

if you aren't leaking, don't worry. Motors last a lot longer than they used to....

Matt
 
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 01:22 PM
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yeah i gotta test it soon . as i may be getting some blow bye . well that's a load off. just check tolerances and pop on another set ; that's awsome. i was wondering where the hell i was gonna find some one to re-sleeve or re-coat this thing .
 
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Old Oct 24, 2006 | 02:10 PM
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From: Northampton MA
Seems like low mileage for ring time

Originally Posted by herbie hind
yeah i gotta test it soon . as i may be getting some blow bye . well that's a load off. just check tolerances and pop on another set ; that's awsome. i was wondering where the hell i was gonna find some one to re-sleeve or re-coat this thing .
I was not aware of any coatings on any internals......

Hey, if the cylinders a straight, be sure to check the bores carefully ( with a bore gauge ), run a scuff hone through the bores, so the new rings seat properly & re ring.

Do Not Try - Unless you know what you are doing:
It's best to remove the motor have the block cooked & cleaned.You need to remove the rods, so why not remove the block too? Put some new bearings in, balence the crank, flywheel, rods, basicly bluprint the bottom end ( by the way the front pulley, fly wheel & clutch assy will be balenced together ). These operations are good bang for the buck. Aftermarket pistons might be worth a thought or 2 for future mods.....
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by stevecars60
I was not aware of any coatings on any internals......

Hey, if the cylinders a straight, be sure to check the bores carefully ( with a bore gauge ), run a scuff hone through the bores, so the new rings seat properly & re ring.

Do Not Try - Unless you know what you are doing:
It's best to remove the motor have the block cooked & cleaned.You need to remove the rods, so why not remove the block too? Put some new bearings in, balence the crank, flywheel, rods, basicly bluprint the bottom end ( by the way the front pulley, fly wheel & clutch assy will be balenced together ). These operations are good bang for the buck. Aftermarket pistons might be worth a thought or 2 for future mods.....
yep there is a super duper wear forever coating on the cyl. walls .what it is is in earlier post. i'd love to balance all of it but it's my daily. so likely i'll be just keeping it going till i gotta do a major. i've decided to keep the car for sure. but i've also decided that when my kids are out of college i'll be picking up a classic. that's when i'll do a major. unless she breaks prior to .
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 01:37 PM
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From: Northampton MA
Originally Posted by herbie hind
yep there is a super duper wear forever coating on the cyl. walls .what it is is in earlier post. i'd love to balance all of it but it's my daily. so likely i'll be just keeping it going till i gotta do a major. i've decided to keep the car for sure. but i've also decided that when my kids are out of college i'll be picking up a classic. that's when i'll do a major. unless she breaks prior to .
Dont ever use the word BREAK ( bad carma ), the Mini motor is pretty durable. If you do a leak down post the #s, I'll bet it's still in spec
 
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Old Oct 25, 2006 | 04:04 PM
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too funny okay i'll post um
 
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