Jackson Racing puts a LOT of effort into design... Who knows how it ended up bent - I'm sure JR will stand behind their product and replace it.

 

I am sure that they will stand behind their product - how can they not. It is blatantly clear that it was a production defect. No marks on the header whatsoever since it was caught before install.

I don't know how much effort they put into their products but if its the same mgmt team that designed the production methodology - its a fair question and speculation.

At that price - it should be zero defects.

 

Now that was funny.

 

Well...it's going back for a refund

So on to OBX...do I need to fabricate a tube to connect it to my cat back then? I understand the OBX does not have a cat or test tube...

 

Good choice, you are correct OBX supplies no test pipe or CAT. I think there is about a 13 1/2 inch space between the OBX coupling and my Magnaflow CAT back flange.
I'm running a Magna flow CAT, no problems. I sourced all the parts and posted in the big OBX thread. You only need one flange for the end of the CAT or test pipe. The CAT I used was long enough (you may need to cut some off) to just add the flange at one end and use the OBX supplied coupling at the header end. I used a band clamp at the header end of CAT so I could remove the OBX coupling and reuse if the CAT goes south. At the CAT back end I made a slip on pipe with flange and just spot welded it a couple places so I can grind them off if I need to remove it for the previous reason, no room for a decent band clamp and I won't use saddle clamps because they distort the pipe.
I have pictures of the gear in my camera but that is with my wife at the hospital awaiting my granddaughter's birth in the next couple of hours.

 

I am using the same Magnaflow cat that norm03s is using, as I think I got the info from one of his posts. It's 2.5" in and out, with bung for o2 sensor, and fits into the space between header and catback with a little to spare. I like his idea of a flange to the catback, and a slip joint or similar to the header. And it costs about $70-ish.
I looked into the random technology cat, for $170 it's a great cat, but it doesn't come with a bung.

Sorry the Jackson didn't work for you, Sid.

 

At a boy! and you get to keep some $$ for other good stuff.

You'll need to make a pipe if your going catless but its better to make it after you have the header installed to you get that perfect fit with your catback and don't end up either with rattles or stressing components.

remember to -

1) double nut or copper nut at the lower flange. You want it good and snug but not too tight in not good.
2) many have had some bolt issues connecting up the header - so be prepared to a) use studs, b) flair some of the holes, c) buy new bolts with smaller heads or d) in my case I simply ground off a bit of the flair on one bolt.
3) this is the decision time to rap or thermo coat.


since you've held a 500 header in your hands, please post about fit and finish. As well your SOP dyno.

have fun

 

May I also suggest replacing the OBX bolt's with 2 new 3/8x4" SS bolts, 4 nuts, some fender washers to stack on either side of the springs and 2 lock washers to go between the locking nuts. You want the springs compressed about half way. I also used new SS bolts and washers at the CAT back flange.
I had the extra hardware on hand (Cap Screws) Bahamabart suggests studs but just chamfering the bolt holes on runner side of flange worked for me with the OEM bolts.
Use a little anti-seize on everything with threads, you won't be sorry later.
thermo coat
I need to get under my car and get some photo's to post up .

 

Thanks for all the support guys

Is there a thread regarding OBX install out there? Sounds like you guys have done your homework...To be honest, I was lazy and didn't like the thought of having to do further fabrication after getting the OBX home but looks like there's no way around that...

 

i would go with the obx...

however, if you want... i would just take that down to a machinist and have it milled...

 

I wanted to hear about the results of the Jackson Header.

(not the bent one)

 

I was wondering if someone would suggest that (milling it down). It seems like a simple fix to me, but given the price of the Jackson I think I would have to send it back, on principle alone.

 

Have it milled and send the bill to Jackson Racing!!

 

There is one problem with milling. Once it is square again, installed, and run through some heat cycles, the metal may decide to continue moving in an unwanted direction. If kept, I would have the entire header stress relieved first...then machine the flange flat, bolt up and go! I wouner what JR does with those returned headers?

 

two threads to look at -
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...&highlight=obx
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...&highlight=obx

if you got any questions or want to tallk - drop me a pm and we can hook up to chat.

 

Norm is correct on spring compression, you want it tight but not so tight that no movement is permitted. I used copper nuts rather than double nut, both accomplish the task and is key unless you want to spend time revisiting the connection point. I used the stock bolts and washers and his suggestion here is a good idea but my experience says it is not absolutely necessary. I have both their header and exhaust and will tell you that while I found the header and exhaust itself well made, both came with the cheapest hardware (bolts, nuts and clamps) possible so swapping it out is not a bad idea.

I referenced studs because it is an option. How you go about it will be determined by how many holes give you a problem. In my case it was 1 bolt and I had already popped the header inplace and I was not about to remove it to chamfer the holes. The header only goes in at one specific angle which took us 20 minutes to find . I shaved 1/16th off the bolt head flair and it slide right in.

 

Hey Thanks Bart I'll take on your generous offer...

 

PM sent BUT you are not going to have any problems considering that you have a secret subterrerean lair under your garage - loaded with tools and an entire pit crew wearing matching white uniforms.

 

Did you also know that one of the tunnel leads directly to your garage?

 

That would be the refuse tunnel!

 

cut the old flange that bent off and then put a new flange on and weld it in place.... well at least thats what i would do

 

don't get me wrong... that would be the first thing that i would do! but if they said i couldn't get a header for like 3 months and i really wanted to keep the jackson i would mill it or cut the flange off my old header and weld it on to that one...

 

I have had the Jackson Racing header on my car for over 40k miles now with NO issues . Sorry to hear about your situation Sid but if you can work thru it somehow it will give you some good service. Randy M7 Tuning

 

the metal pulls to the heat not away from it .

 

Megan looks pretty good too