That is another of my minor issues with this setup but I will have to come to terms with it if i do any type of louvers. While underway I do not think it would be much of an issue but sitting still or while being washed then there might be a problem. The later is the only one i worry about as in So Cal there isn't enough rain to worry about but I do wash the car on a average 3 times a week. My plan would be to create some type of easily applied and removed block off plate for those conditions . I am sure Sid has something in mind already. You did raise a good point but I think it will be easily over come.

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

Very true for So Cal Randy. I guess it would be possible to make some kind of door/shield that would seal from the inside. For lack of a better example, sorta like pet doors, from the inside you can slide a plastic or metal piece that "seals" the door/louvers. That way you could still wash the car without a problem.

 

Were you hanging out at Steve's Auto Clinic sat ? " pet doors " was exactly one of the ideas we were discussing . Another one was if you had some of that magnetic sign material it may stick well enough to the metal underside to seal , at least as far as just car washing goes. There are several ways to solve this I am sure. It will just be a matter of picking the best one.

Randy
M7 tuning

 

Nope, I wasn't hanging at Steve's. That was just the first idea that popped to my mind. I'll be interested in watching the developement of the product. Now if Mini would just build my car...

 

Hi Sid, I'll be home this Saturday, In Milwaukee right now. Tomorrow we head out the Chicago until Friday.
As for the Sky, The suspension is a little softer than the Solstice, love the looks better that the Pontiac. It's a fun car, which drifts very well.....

 

Nice!! I like these alot. Although in my quick scrolling didn't read if they are functional

 

Functional. It's Sid remember

 

Nice idea. Personally I'd like to see them placed closer to the center section than what I see posted in the pics.
It's been shown in the past that once you reach 30MPH the underhood temps drop close to ambient( ~ 10-12º over) quite well. I'd like to see before and after with these but I'm also thinking that in a static situation these will help a lot. Since most of the heat is generated closer to the center of the hood moving the vents closer will help more.

I understand how these work and how they will generate a siphon like effect under motion but I also realize the closer they are to the heat source the more effective they will be.

Like an above post mentioned, venting the rear of the center hump will work well. Structural reinforcement would be more critical in this location though.

Just some random thought

 

These vents are essentially "universal louvers" (the only one's I've seen that has angled vents to mimic the plan view lines of the Mini) so you can place them just about anywhere you choose, provided the surface will allow. The Canyon car placed them farther apart and rearward than I choose to (notice they went right over the windshield sprayers)...I am placing mine as close to the center hump and directly aft of the DFIC for maximum extraction If you look carefully, I am also reshaping the contour of the louver's stamping to flow better with the Mini's lines and eliminated the first of the vent. The louvers comes pre-drilled for rivets but as I am reducing the foot print, I will use fewer rivets that is shown on the race Mini. It's very flexible in how you choose to apply to your bonnet

 

Cool

The painters tape made it a bit hard to judge on yours.
Need to go look at your pics again.

You're a brave man


Edit;
I think I get it now. What is exposed in your pics will be the final size of the pieces after your modifications. Correct?

 

Yes...

 

I own a 1961 Morgan +4. It has a tiny copper/brass radiator, a large 4 cylinder engine with a reputation for running on the warm side, and 70 louvres on the sides and tops of the bonnets to aid cooling. Conventional wisdom in the Morgan world is that these louvres, as well as those found on the V8 +8s, are of little functional value. If this is correct, then I suspect that you will be underwhelmed by your results (except perhaps when stuck in traffic).

Regarding the esthetics, I might be won over if they were cut into the bonnet rather than being seperate riveted on pieces. A talented body man might be able to fit them flush for you, but this would not be cheap

 

Not cheap is right...this is what wouldn't mind doing if I had the time and resources:

1-remove the hood and all attached items
2-cut off braces to clear the louvering machine
3-louver punch the hood
4-reweld brace
5-prep surfaces for paint
6-repaint
7-remount all items

But then again, I like rivets...they work great on aircrafts/race cars...they make life much simpler

 

Several years ago, European Car did something similar to a M3. I prefer the recessed louver look that they did.
M3 Project Car

 

Can't you cut the hood the outline of these pieces, drop them flush and have them welded - thereby smoothing out piece?

how much are these things?

 

Of course...but I need to start "Project Msfitoy Hood Fund Drive" thread... I'm not sure of the pricing for the louvers...need to check with Peter...

That would involve:

1-remove hood and parts
2-cut brace
3-cut hole and weld panel in/reweld brace
4-surface finish both sides
5-paint prep
6-paint hood
7-remount hood/parts

Besides...I still like rivets

 

Uh Oh!

Starting to repeat yourself

Oldtimers disease?

Just kidding

 

Sounds like a long weekend for YOU!

 

http://raceace.com/products.html

Similar product. similar price?

 

I think one of the biggest benefits to the louvers will be when you are home on the couch having a cold one. The Mini's hold heat for so long after you are done driving that everything bakes for at least a couple of hrs. If any of you have worked on your car you all know how long it takes before you can get in anywhere deep. I think the louvers will assist in helping heat exit once you are stopped . That big curved bonnet just traps everything for a real long time. If I go through with this it will be for the after effects more than any moving performance gains even though with the DIFC I think there will be some of those as well.

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

What about just re-routing the plastic at the back of the engine compartment to the vents on the top of the hood?

You could half-*** louvre the plastic so rain and water would not go in, but heat could come out. You could even mold a new full plastic piece and sell it as an upgrade!

 

Pricing is as follows :

Black powdercoat aluminum $ 134
Bare aluminum $ 124
Poilshed Stainless Steel $ 144

Randy
M7 Tuning

 

Oh, upon further inspection, the grills on top are behind the metal. . . still may be doable though. You may want to block the intakes for the ac, though. . . could get hot!

 

How about this...
http://www.lowbucktools.com/louver.html
you could do it right in your brand new garage.

 

Way back in the day i looked into opening those plastic bulkheads to let air out through the cowl vents . My reason for not doing so on the passenger side was the terminal block for all the brake hydaulic lines as well as any cabin vents . I figured my brake system needed all the help it could get in the heat reduction area.

Randy
M7 tuning