yeah what fun is that?

Thats a real good deal. The sway bar alone is worth 170 new

 

Anytime you can get both of those items for around $250 shipped is a good deal. CONGRATS! Whether you want to just let your ride pull you around or really drive it thru the twisties, you will notice a big difference over the OEM.

I have an ALTA bar [set on the middle hole] and the H-Sport springs on my new S, too, and just love the ride and the great cornering.

 

There you go!!! This deal would be perfect for you! You'll be amazed by how the swaybar and springs makes the MINI handles a LOT better... The swaybar alone is a MUST.

Stop thinking you don't need a swaybar, and try it. You'll love it for sure!

As I told you earlier, I've wait almost 3 years to get one, and it is really in my top 3 best mods, with a S/C pulley and getting rid of the runflats.

 

! say pulley all the way!!!...I cudnt believe how much more fun it made the MINI. I thought it was quick from the factory but now its really QUICKKK!! Paid $117 for an ALTA 15% and had it put on by friends in the US MINI Club out in Long Island no charge!!! They've done plenty of em and are always willing to do more so long as u join the club!!

 

Thanks guys. Question though...tonight I took a corner a little bit to quick, and I caught up to a car in front of me. Well, intead of remaining at the speed they were going, they slowed down suddenly, making me *not slam, but aggressivly hit* my brakes hard and the back end felt a little loose, and the car kind of over steered itself from the hard braking and the brakes sqealed, and the car dove to the left. Would the Swaybar/springs help in this kind of scenerio?

And on a side note* Does anyone know if there is a better How-to than Randy's? He doesn't have pics on there, and how extensive is the work? I plan on doing them myself, or maybe pay the MINI Mechanics to do the job. Let's say I were to do them myself....how hard is the work, and besides regular wrenches, etc. is the only other *weird* part a spring compressor?

Thanks again! Depending on if I get payed what I'm expecting tomorrow I think I'm going to buy them.
-Cody

 

Install video created recently is great!
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ad.php?t=71918

 

Thanks!

-Cody

 

the thicker sway bar should actually make the rear more active, as it helps you rotate your car more quickly. it sounds like you had late braking induced oversteer. honestly a sway bar might have made this even more startling for you.

tightening up the rear end makes the car easier to aim in a corner and more responsive for the driver expecting it. vehicle rotation is more useful than tire scrub. but unexpected oversteer will cause more accidents than unexpected tire scrub, so conservative is usually the word in factory specs.

 

If he was in the straight, hit the brakes hard, and pulled to the left, then that sounds like an alignment problem.

If he was in the middle of the corner, then sudden oversteer can scared the booties of your boot

"... aggressivly hit* my brakes hard and the back end felt a little loose, and the car kind of over steered itself from the hard braking and the brakes sqealed, and the car dove to the left. Would the Swaybar/springs help in this kind of scenerio?"

Were you in the straight or still in the corner?

Did the ABS kick in?

Stiffer springs would help the front end dive less and may help.

 

Yes, I was braking late while in a corner (due to the person suddenly slowing down) and I'm not sure if the ABS kicked in or not.

Thanks guys! I think it's what PPE said. Late braking oversteer.

Now hopefully I'll get my springs and swaybar soon! Can't wait! Especially since my stock suspension has 50k miles on it....this should be a drastic change I'm hoping.

-Cody

 

Hello Cody,

Assured clear distance. You have to assume that the people around you can't drive worth a darn & most can't. Drive defensively. Glad you didn't hit the slow driver.

What you had was weight transfer putting more weight & grip on your front wheels when you lifted & braked hard. That caused your rear wheels to lose grip. Hence the rear moving sideways. A rear sway bar will make that scenario even more likely to happen.

When you put that bar on set it at its softest setting until you become used to it. I'd also suggest waiting until you are used to the bar before putting those springs on. An auto x or drivers school will really pay dividends for you. Money very well spent.

 

I had plenty of room before I would actually hit them, I just hit the brakes a wee bit too hard.

And yes...people around Ohio don't know how to drive for crap lol. And I'm not "supposed" to buy anything for my MINI, so they will have to be installed at the same time. Oops...hehe, I'm not "supposed" to mod... Uh oh! The mod bug bit me way long ago before I got my MINI.

*And are you coming to the G2G on Sunday? I'm going to add you to the list!*
-Cody

 

A note on the install I haven't done springs yet but a sway bar in an easy job, 2 hours first time if you need not go buy tools and no more than an hour there after (Sawy bar only, spring will add time). Take out both shocks not the one the how-to says to remove, (you'll have them out anyway to do springs right?) and even Mr. Webb and Mr. Black remove both (found this out after I did that way), it will make life easier. Also be sure to have all sockets listed along with a good 10-in. socket extension. Oh and you'll save yourself tons of hurt if you get a second set of hands on the job as well.

 

lol... anybody want to give me the same deal that he just got... definately gonna need some better handling after I install the Twurbo kit... (by the way Im now out of money till my next paycheck)

 

Sweet! Hopefully I'll have another set of experienced hands to help me too!

Thanks for the info Motor, it will be used!
-Cody

 

i'd invest in some drive schooling, as the swaybar will make the back end more likely to step out, and none of us would want that to happen to you Do the mods, and learn how to use them all properly. Please

 

And thats the ONE thing I miss about the runflats, no sway bar and I could lift mid corner and get the back end to step out pretty much on command.

 

how fast were you going....

 

Are you saying take out the shocks to swap a rear sway? You don't have to remove either for the job.

To answer the earlier q about a spring compressor - you can use ratcheting tie-down straps in place of the compressor. Personally I prefer them. The only odd tool you'll need is something to loosen the nuts on top of the front struts. There are several ways to do it.

 

Somewhere around 10-15 above a local speed limit. but it was only for that turn.

And as for the spring compressor I asked, my friend told me I can go to Autozone and rent one for like $20, then return it when I'm done.

And I cannot do driving school until I pay off my car which will not be until next summer. Plus it's expensive as hell...

-Cody

 

A track school is money well spent, but doing an auto x or three will help you learn car control too, in a safe environment

Be careful when compressing the springs. There is a lot of energy there to be released if your compressor slips. A friend of mine referees to that job as defusing the bombs. He had one go off on him so he's a bit gun shy. I've never had one slip off, but I'm very careful when doing that job. I believe when you put your lowering springs in you won't need the compressor.

When you get your car all buttoned back up make sure to have the alignment done. Be aware that your car can handle somewhat strangely until you have the alignment. Even after you do it's going to handle differently. Give yourself time to get accustomed to it.

See you tomorrow.

 

Ah yea...crap! I need an alignment too....forgot about that part! Well....where is a good place around town to get an alignment done? And how much is it going to cost?

-Cody

 

Instructions for the bar we had said to do at least one, we found it more tome convienient to reomve both and skip the step with the crow-bar. I thinks more preferance than anything else.

If that was directed for me, on the run-craps you could do it at about 15 at asecret location with a real tight turn and I've done it all the way up to 70MPH entering the highway, I thought it was fun, the guy a few lanes over looked a little more nervous

 

Hrm, my car stock still sticks at an on ramp at 70mph, not that I would actually know.... The run-craps start to squeal a little bit around the turn....man I can't wait until I get some Azenis 615's on there!

-Cody

 

I had all season runcraps that would stick but if you lift off mid corner (see road racing disscussion for reasons not to do this as it usually means spinning out, many cars have been destory from this happening) I could get the back end to swing out, more for kicks than anything else, the trick was to know where and how to correct for the oversteer that ensued so I didn't spinout.