Anyone know of a how-to for an aftermarket injector install? Thanks!

 

*tap* *tap* Is this thing on?

 

Should be able to derive one from the Bentley manual, but I'm holding out until the 05-06 update comes out.

 

Figured the Bentley Manual would work as well, but wasn't sure if there were any tricky differences between the OEM and the aftermarket injectors.

 

Just pull off the IC and it's a simple matter of unplugging the injectors, pushing the clips to one side and pull out

 

1) REmove IC.

2) Move lines held onto fuel rail. (Vac line and injector wire harness)
3) Surrounding the connection with a rag, undo the gas line (push further on the fuel rail, push in black plastic collar, remove line, it will squirt some gas).

4) Unclip injector electrical connectors (press on the metal clips and they just slide off).

5) Remove 2 13 mm bolts that hold the rail down.
6) Cover the ends of the intake horns, and blow off the dirt at the base of the injectors. Wiggle the rail a bit while you do this.
7) Remove rail.
8) each injector is held in place with a metal clip. Remove it and wiggle the injector out of the rial. Be carefull, the rail is full of gas.

9) installation is reverse of removal.

Should take less than 1/2 hour.

Matt

PS, sorry it took so long to post...

 

Awesome...thanks Matt!!!

 

Note that because of how fuel is metered into MINI engines, you should reprogram your ECU to calibrate it to new higher-flow injectors, or the engine will run rich at full throttle. This is not needed if you are replacing the injectors with ones of the same flow rate.

 

You mean "reset" the ECU, right?

 

Make sure you use new o-rings... If the aftermarket injectors didn't come with them, head down and pick some up...

The Bentley manual also says to coat said new o-rings with a bit of anti-seize compound...

 

No, if the injectors flow more than stock, it would be worth it to get the ECU reprogrammed to account for the additional fuel. Or you could do like some of us and add an Air Flow Controller to fake the ECU into thinking it's getting less air into the engine, then it adds less fuel.

 

A couple of suggestions here.

1) Remove the fuel cap to relieve pressure in the tank.

2) On the end of the fuel rail is a Schrader valve (just like an innertube). With a rag to "catch" the flying fuel, press on the schrader value with a screwdriver to release the pressure.

Enjoy!

 

For sure, you need to do something to get the ECU to control the injectors properly. The JCW injectors are only about 10% more flow than stock, so I in closed loop, it can probably get close via the fuel trims. But WOT doesn't use the oxygen sensors to trim flow, and the car will run richer with higher flow injecotrs. Since the car runs too rich stock, this will only get worse with larger injectors. I use MTH, and upload and download maps as needed. As others have mentioned, piggybacks can perform this function as well.

Matt

ps, a user can't reset the ECU. A full reset requires the use of factory diagnositc equipement. The funcion 21 trick works on the on-board computer, not the ECU....

 

I have a stock MCS with a pulley, exhaust from cat back, and fixing to have the AGS v3 on as well. I wanted to upgrade my fuel injectors to the JCW 380cc and reprogram to the jcw setup. Would that be a good or what? Thanks Spike

 

I just wanted to say thanks for this, it worked exactly like you have listed above.

Here is a tip though if you have an Alta IC, it can sometimes be a PITA to get it back on. I found that doing the following makes it easy:

Put the passenger side boot (it is the larger of the 2) on the IC and slip it over the intake tube like normal, making sure you put the bottom half of the boot straps in place (or good luck getting them on )

This is where I always ran into a problem but this is the way to do it quick and easy:

On the drivers side (the small side) slide the boot over the intake tube, but slide it up and over the casting as far as possible. It will almost slide far enough over to be flush with the edge of the intake tube.

Slide the 2 boot straps under it.

Drop the IC into place and pull the boot back over into its proper place on the IC and intake tube. I found it slides right on with ease this way.

Put the boot strap tops on and tighten them down and reattach the diverter.

Of course Your Mileage Might Vary, so as with all things like this, proceed at your own risk, I'm not responsible if you screw up your car etc.

At any rate after having removed the IC and put it back on my car about 10 times in the last 6 months (boost guage, cleaning, JCW injectors) figuring this out was a godsend for me. Just figured I'd share.

 

Thread resurrection here, but this is exactly what I was looking for, gonna pop some new injectors in this weekend. NAM rocks

 

just be careful when you yank the fuel rail out to pull straight out so you dont risk bending or cracking the injectors. good luck!

 

This post is 6 years old and it's still helping people. Nice write up. Easy as pie.

I opened this and the Bentley but found myself referring just to this because the pics were perfect.

 

I used this guide last night when installing my RMW 440's, very helpful, did it without a hitch!

Some notes from my experience;

On step 3 - When depressing the schrader valve on the end of the fuel rail, make sure you have the area well towelled, wear safety glasses, and make sure all sources of ignition are far away, I practically had old faithful when I did mine! (I did also release the gas cap as suggested, not sure if that helped)

On step 6 - blow all the dirt and particles out of anywhere near the intake manifold and valve cover in addition to the area around the injectors

On step 7 - don't forget to reconnect the hose at the bottom of the fuel rail, I almost did!

When installing new injectors - the RMWs came with a little grease packet, be sure to rub some grease on all the injector o-rings when re-assembling so there's no chance you nick the o-ring and loose the seal. Not only does the injector seal from gas on the fuel rail end but also boost pressure on the intake manifold end.

Thanks again for the helpful writeup!

 

What am I doing wrong if the rail won't come out?

 

you have to wiggle it back and forth slowly while pulling up, it will eventually pull out, the o rings kinda hold it in pretty good. I might have used a big screwdriver with a rag wrapped around it as a pry bar cant remember for sure though.

 

Just one issue as im trying to associate the descriptions with where everything is at. The images show error as if they are no longer there. Wpuld anyone happen to have any schematics or pictures? Preferably of location of fuel injector rail or something. Or maybe a more concise description of where it is located.

 

Actually found a nice site that has great diagrams. Www.realoem.com

 

The injectors have steel bodies and corrode over time.
This can make them stick in the aluminium inlet manifold.....
This makes them a ***** to get out all in one go.
I think I ended up un-clipping them from the injector rail, one by one.
Then you can remove the rail and pull each injector out of the manifold one by one.
When replacing though you need to clip them all to the fuel rail first and install all at the same time.

Cheers

Chris

 

The images are gone because the post is 10 years old lol

If you aren't sure what the fuel rail is you might want to have someone else work on it. Or least have someone help you do it. There really is no need for pictures.

And as Chris said it can be really hard to get the injectors out now. 10 years ago it was easy.