Drivetrain ok BRAKE rotor help!!!!
ok BRAKE rotor help!!!!
Ok i have been looking around for some new brake rotors and pads. I was going to stick with the EBC green pads, and i was looking at 2 types of rotors. I was looking at Cross drilled/slotted , or power slot rotors. I do pretty hard driving so whats the best to go with? Please let me know. Thanks Spike
ahem...(wrong forum)
I had the green stuff pads, got Hawk HPS pads and I like them MUCH better. As far as rotors, if you're going to be hitting the track a good bit, I'd stay away from slotted rotors, I had some bad experiences on past cars with cracked rotors that were cross drilled..
I had the green stuff pads, got Hawk HPS pads and I like them MUCH better. As far as rotors, if you're going to be hitting the track a good bit, I'd stay away from slotted rotors, I had some bad experiences on past cars with cracked rotors that were cross drilled..
I'm running Powerslut rotors and Hawk HPS pads all around. Quite a nice improvement over stock and generally enough for what majority of people are looking for. I used EBC greens in the past but found that the HPS are a little better, lasted a little longer and there was less brake dust.
Seann
Seann
Hi,
I worked on cars with the EBC Green, I don't recommend them.
Hawk HPS are good (Some noise on light braking). I use them on my Evo8.
Slotted rotors are great for faster biting/stopping but tend to wear out pads faster.
Cross drilled are better for cooling and gas dissipation but will tend to crack under extreme use. Most of our 355 Ferrari challenge cars have cracking rotors. We chenge them when the cracks meet.
I worked on cars with the EBC Green, I don't recommend them.
Hawk HPS are good (Some noise on light braking). I use them on my Evo8.
Slotted rotors are great for faster biting/stopping but tend to wear out pads faster.
Cross drilled are better for cooling and gas dissipation but will tend to crack under extreme use. Most of our 355 Ferrari challenge cars have cracking rotors. We chenge them when the cracks meet.
Is your stuff currently worn out?
Or are you just looking for a change? If you need to upgrade....
Drilled holes = bad. Cast holes = better, slots = good.
I found with stock calipers that the metal bushings helped a lot. More even pad ware for sure. If you do upgrade to them, you'll really wonder what BMW/Mini was thinking with the rubber bushings.
But really, have you been experiencing any fade? If not, what's the upgrading for? If you don't have any fade, save the $ for other stuff. If you do have fade, then spend away! But no need to fix something that ain't broke, if in fact it ain't broke....
Matt
Drilled holes = bad. Cast holes = better, slots = good.
I found with stock calipers that the metal bushings helped a lot. More even pad ware for sure. If you do upgrade to them, you'll really wonder what BMW/Mini was thinking with the rubber bushings.
But really, have you been experiencing any fade? If not, what's the upgrading for? If you don't have any fade, save the $ for other stuff. If you do have fade, then spend away! But no need to fix something that ain't broke, if in fact it ain't broke....
Matt
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I run the dragon alot and do alot of fast braking and also want to get rid of all the stock brake dust.. Its killing me washing the rims like 3 times a week.... Also where can i find metal bushings to replace those rubber ones? if i do just brake pads i will switch everything out. SS lines, slotted rotors, metal bushings, and hawk pads.... That would improve it at least 5 times better i think. Thanks for all the advice. Spike
Check out this link to the reviews section....
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...php?product=74
They're available from TyrolSport and Helix, I think.
Matt
They're available from TyrolSport and Helix, I think.
Matt
Are the Power slots all cryo? also is that a dipping of some sort? The ones I bought are from mini madness for the front only. How are they with stock pads for now. And one more thing, are those rotors going to eat up brake pads or what? thanks Spike
"Are the Power slots all cryo?"
Don't know. They may be...
"also is that a dipping of some sort?"
Yes they are put in a liquid nitrogen bath to tighten the molecular structure ( the simple answer ). Is it worth more? IMHO, no not realy. The metalergy for most rotors is pretty much the same, however there are some aloys that do benefit from the cyro treatment. These rotors would be good for race applications where the rotors are replaced often.
"And one more thing, are those rotors going to eat up brake pads or what?"
The pads don't know the slots are there. You will use more pad but not because of the slot, but the elemation gas between the rotor & the pad. For every day use the pad wear would be almost nill.
Don't know. They may be...
"also is that a dipping of some sort?"
Yes they are put in a liquid nitrogen bath to tighten the molecular structure ( the simple answer ). Is it worth more? IMHO, no not realy. The metalergy for most rotors is pretty much the same, however there are some aloys that do benefit from the cyro treatment. These rotors would be good for race applications where the rotors are replaced often.
"And one more thing, are those rotors going to eat up brake pads or what?"
The pads don't know the slots are there. You will use more pad but not because of the slot, but the elemation gas between the rotor & the pad. For every day use the pad wear would be almost nill.
Just checking on that. I didn't want to go this route and then have to buy Pads every 6 months. I would think it would help braking getting these rotors to upgrade my braking system. I do run the dragon a couple times a year soo i need better braking.. I RUN that gap. Its a blast. The mini was made for those 318 turns, thats for sure. Thanks for the help guys. Spike
Originally Posted by saifa
I'm running Powerslut rotors and Hawk HPS pads
Powerslots come in both cryo and non-cryo. We always get the non-cryo ones: I can't tell the difference except in price.
Note also that many a road racer uses non drilled or slotted rotors. That's right, stock rotors. The first and most important changes to your brakes should be fluid and pads. If you are able to run stock rotors without cooking your fluid on the track, do it. Some of the better track pads put a beating on your rotors (DS 2500, Hawk), but who cares, at about $50 apiece, they are cheaper than the pads.
Good advise form Helix...
1 old trick to "bed" the pads, is to bake them in the oven for an hour at 350o. Just make sure that your wife is not home.
There are some other projects that require the dish washer that your wife would be happier if she diden't know about.
If you track the car or for that mater realy hard use ( AutoX ) be sure to flush the break fluid ( all of it & more ).
1 old trick to "bed" the pads, is to bake them in the oven for an hour at 350o. Just make sure that your wife is not home.
There are some other projects that require the dish washer that your wife would be happier if she diden't know about.
If you track the car or for that mater realy hard use ( AutoX ) be sure to flush the break fluid ( all of it & more ).
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