Drivetrain Brake rotor/pad change How-to
>>Paul,
>>
>>I had the same concern. Remember that old saying - "Ferodo way your rotors" (translation - throw away your rotors).
>>
>>I have a set of the 2500s coming, and the 3000s will be evaled after that. I was told that the new compounds are very good - mu ratings in the .5 - .62 range with little heat required. The charts I was e-mailed also show very linear rates.
>>
>>I'll be sure to report, but it sounds like sleepless has been happy with them, and the folks I spoke with today couldn't say enough about them.
I think I'm going to give the Ferodo a try and if they eat away my rotors it gives me an excuse to buy some slotted ones to replace them. :smile:
Paul
>>
>>I had the same concern. Remember that old saying - "Ferodo way your rotors" (translation - throw away your rotors).
>>
>>I have a set of the 2500s coming, and the 3000s will be evaled after that. I was told that the new compounds are very good - mu ratings in the .5 - .62 range with little heat required. The charts I was e-mailed also show very linear rates.
>>
>>I'll be sure to report, but it sounds like sleepless has been happy with them, and the folks I spoke with today couldn't say enough about them.
I think I'm going to give the Ferodo a try and if they eat away my rotors it gives me an excuse to buy some slotted ones to replace them. :smile:
Paul
>>What rotors did you use? Price? Any preference for drilled, slotted or combo?
I'm using the stock rotors which are probably the best you can do for braking efficiency in the stock size. Both drilled and slotted rotors in the stock size reduce the mass of the rotor so it reduces the heat dissipation efficiency of the rotor. If you are going for the look and not for efficiency then pick the one you like the look of.
If you really want drilled rotors then make sure you get the best quality rotors possible; such as Brembo. Again, if you stay with the stock size, you will probably have worse braking than with stock. If you go with a big brake kit then slotting or drilled or both is fine; the difference is minor accept that slotted rotors are more durable in that they resist cracking better, but they too can crack despite what most slotted rotor manufacturers will tell you.
I'm using the stock rotors which are probably the best you can do for braking efficiency in the stock size. Both drilled and slotted rotors in the stock size reduce the mass of the rotor so it reduces the heat dissipation efficiency of the rotor. If you are going for the look and not for efficiency then pick the one you like the look of.
If you really want drilled rotors then make sure you get the best quality rotors possible; such as Brembo. Again, if you stay with the stock size, you will probably have worse braking than with stock. If you go with a big brake kit then slotting or drilled or both is fine; the difference is minor accept that slotted rotors are more durable in that they resist cracking better, but they too can crack despite what most slotted rotor manufacturers will tell you.
>>Great explanationi. Thanks :smile:
>>
>>Can anyone tell me the minimum thickness for the front and rear MINI discs?
it is required to be cast or stamped somewhere on the rotor. Should be on either the side of the hat, or on a cast area around the bolt circle.
And from the look of the pics on the previous page, my guess is around the bolt circle-near the edge of the hat, should say min thk #####.
>>
>>Can anyone tell me the minimum thickness for the front and rear MINI discs?
it is required to be cast or stamped somewhere on the rotor. Should be on either the side of the hat, or on a cast area around the bolt circle.
And from the look of the pics on the previous page, my guess is around the bolt circle-near the edge of the hat, should say min thk #####.
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