Drivetrain What to do with $5,000 =)
A thread like this wouldn't be complete without:
"Put it into some investments, save it for a house, or pay off your bills!! Putting money in cars is a waste of money!!"
I'd say TC. I've been looking at the Cosworth packages, and other engine builds, and they just don't seem to have the output/$ the way even a mild TC setup does.
"Put it into some investments, save it for a house, or pay off your bills!! Putting money in cars is a waste of money!!"
I'd say TC. I've been looking at the Cosworth packages, and other engine builds, and they just don't seem to have the output/$ the way even a mild TC setup does.
Originally Posted by Coop d'etat
A thread like this wouldn't be complete without:
"Put it into some investments, save it for a house, or pay off your bills!! Putting money in cars is a waste of money!!"
"Put it into some investments, save it for a house, or pay off your bills!! Putting money in cars is a waste of money!!"
Yeah I got ripped a new a$$h*le when I asked if I should use the $$ I saved as a down payment on the car. Hmm one guy said if you put the money into an account by the time your 60 it will be 80,000
So put all my $ away for 40 years................I dont think soooo. And I think I will be going with Helix's TC kit for 4800, seems the best one out there.
[quote=Coop d'etat]
"Put it into some investments, save it for a house, or pay off your bills!! Putting money in cars is a waste of money!!"
quote]
Where in the FiretrUCK is the moderator?
This kind of language should not be tolerated here on NAM. I say we burn him on a stake!
"Put it into some investments, save it for a house, or pay off your bills!! Putting money in cars is a waste of money!!"
quote]
Where in the FiretrUCK is the moderator?
This kind of language should not be tolerated here on NAM. I say we burn him on a stake!
Where in the FiretrUCK is the moderator?
This kind of language should not be tolerated here on NAM. I say we burn him on a stake!
[/quote]
Funny, this months Money Magazine asks the same question. What to do with $5K. Its kind of funny they are not the same answers as here ...
This kind of language should not be tolerated here on NAM. I say we burn him on a stake!
[/quote]Funny, this months Money Magazine asks the same question. What to do with $5K. Its kind of funny they are not the same answers as here ...

Ported head/cam
16% reduction pully
underdrive crank pully (with dampener is prefered)
obx header
Webb exhaust
Cold air intake
MTH or some other tuning software
Intercooler
Smaller diameter light weight wheels
This makes a strong car that will be reliable and still manage decent MPG
For eating the sti's depend on a good Nitrous shot. For the world you want, with gas milage/reliability and additional performance on demand, thats your best hope. Not sure how it'd hold up to an STI.
16% reduction pully
underdrive crank pully (with dampener is prefered)
obx header
Webb exhaust
Cold air intake
MTH or some other tuning software
Intercooler
Smaller diameter light weight wheels
This makes a strong car that will be reliable and still manage decent MPG
For eating the sti's depend on a good Nitrous shot. For the world you want, with gas milage/reliability and additional performance on demand, thats your best hope. Not sure how it'd hold up to an STI.
Funny, this months Money Magazine asks the same question. What to do with $5K. Its kind of funny they are not the same answers as here ...


The day Money Magazine recommends "investing" 5M in car mods is the day, I will start reading Money magazine.
Wow... I can't believe that anyone hasn't said it yet and I re-read the thread, just to check!
Before you can go fast, you should be able to stop quick! The first performance mod, IMHO, should always be an uprated braking system. Even if it is just a good set of pads ($170), Stainless Brake lines ($120) and a good brake fluid ($40), you are well on your way, and 100% of the way there, if you look at Randy Webb's race car. Maybe throw in there the Tyrol Sport brass bushings ($100) while you are in there, for a $430 investment in protecting your newly purchased mods and your life!
Before you can go fast, you should be able to stop quick! The first performance mod, IMHO, should always be an uprated braking system. Even if it is just a good set of pads ($170), Stainless Brake lines ($120) and a good brake fluid ($40), you are well on your way, and 100% of the way there, if you look at Randy Webb's race car. Maybe throw in there the Tyrol Sport brass bushings ($100) while you are in there, for a $430 investment in protecting your newly purchased mods and your life!
Originally Posted by Risu
Not to hijack, but what kind of power are you getting out of yours? Was unable to see any details on the M7 site. Any information would be appreciated, such as dyno sheets, 0-60 times, etc.
! My hope is that one day soon it'll all be set and my own numbers will be available. If you search around here, you'll find some info about the car on which the kit was developed, but I'll paste links here to the relevant dyno data. What information is available is, as you can see, plainly featured....before and after dynos of the car:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...1&d=1127704880
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...2&d=1127704880
The kit made a huge difference in my car, when it went on originally, minus the M7/MTH software. I got a quick dyno with stock software and the M7 400cc injectors done before embarking on the software journey, and it made 188 whp [I think I remember], with AF ratios WICKEDLY RICH- with sensor behind the cat, below 10:1 from like 3-6.5k rpm
[again, off the top of my head]. There was clearly a ton of power to be gained. Motorsports3 ["Fastest non-nitrous..."] apparently gained about 30 whp just by using an APEX-I to dial in his fuel after installing the Globalmotorworks head, for a final figure of 210 whp or so [see https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...64&postcount=7 regarding his buildup].I have every reason to believe that, with software, mine will be right up there, which will be pretty awesome for a pullied car
. But, when I originally purchased the kit last summer, I decided not to use the MTH tune that M7 has on their project car, out of a desire to have someone closer to me do the job. I wanted something different.It definately would have been easier and quicker to just spring for the included software, but I think that right about now I'm quite happy I didn't. I hope to have everything ready sometime this summer and then will let everyone know all about it!
Originally Posted by agranger
Wow... I can't believe that anyone hasn't said it yet and I re-read the thread, just to check!
Before you can go fast, you should be able to stop quick! The first performance mod, IMHO, should always be an uprated braking system. Even if it is just a good set of pads ($170), Stainless Brake lines ($120) and a good brake fluid ($40), you are well on your way, and 100% of the way there, if you look at Randy Webb's race car. Maybe throw in there the Tyrol Sport brass bushings ($100) while you are in there, for a $430 investment in protecting your newly purchased mods and your life!
Before you can go fast, you should be able to stop quick! The first performance mod, IMHO, should always be an uprated braking system. Even if it is just a good set of pads ($170), Stainless Brake lines ($120) and a good brake fluid ($40), you are well on your way, and 100% of the way there, if you look at Randy Webb's race car. Maybe throw in there the Tyrol Sport brass bushings ($100) while you are in there, for a $430 investment in protecting your newly purchased mods and your life!


even at the brake upgrades...its not what he had asked for...he wants to beat sti's..and I don't think he means in braking distances :P
Originally Posted by MSFIT
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...0&postcount=25 
even at the brake upgrades...its not what he had asked for...he wants to beat sti's..and I don't think he means in braking distances :P

even at the brake upgrades...its not what he had asked for...he wants to beat sti's..and I don't think he means in braking distances :P
I still contend that you should be able to go from 60 to 0 quickly before you can go 0 to 60 quickly. If not, your $5,000 in speed mods will end up wrapped around a tree and you would have been better off investing $1,000 of that cash in extra insurance
lost cause
Heres the way I look at it:
If you want an STI beater, then go buy an EVO. No matter what we do to our European cars, all some kid has to do is buy and EVO and spend 2k on mods to beat us. A friend of mine is pushing 340, and is about to add another 100hp.
Why spend 25k on a mini, then another 5k to get it to 300hp, when for the same price you can buy an AWD STI and not have to worry about reliability. The point is that even if you bought an S4 or an M3… your still gona get beat.
The bottom line is that we dont buy our cars for performance. We sacrifice that for more luxury, style, fit, and finish, because to us that’s what more important.
If you can’t beat them, then make fun of the glider wing on their trunk and point out that chicks think your car is cooler.
If you want an STI beater, then go buy an EVO. No matter what we do to our European cars, all some kid has to do is buy and EVO and spend 2k on mods to beat us. A friend of mine is pushing 340, and is about to add another 100hp.
Why spend 25k on a mini, then another 5k to get it to 300hp, when for the same price you can buy an AWD STI and not have to worry about reliability. The point is that even if you bought an S4 or an M3… your still gona get beat.
The bottom line is that we dont buy our cars for performance. We sacrifice that for more luxury, style, fit, and finish, because to us that’s what more important.
If you can’t beat them, then make fun of the glider wing on their trunk and point out that chicks think your car is cooler.
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