I like Rhinos but they seem to be less versatile. Can I change the rear sway bar with them?

 

I still use it for heavy work.
Cheap too since I had all the stuff lying around.

 

No.

The rear suspension has to be able to drop down when you release the rear assembly.


Less versatile than what?

 

than a jack and jack stands.

 

Certainly. But it's a whole lot faster for oil changes and generally more stable as well.
If you're garage challenged like I am and have to work in the street where you don't have a nice level surface it's even better.

How useful is a floor jack in a gravel driveway or in a yard? Not very.

No tool is right for every job and even the best tools aren't good at everything.

 

 

I just installed the Helix in my 2003 Cooper this weekend. I am very happy with the result. It has a nice, crisp feel, although there is some effort required to shift when at a standstill which has been mentioned in other posts. It reminds me of a Miata gearbox, and even a little bit like the Hurst shifter on my 1968 LeMans I had back in high school, just with shorter throws. I have a few bits of advice for anyone attempting this themselves:

*The shift linkage is closer to the front of the car than the rear, so if you only have one set of ramps or stands, jack up the front. I used ramps on the back and stands in the front and would do it in reverse if I had to do it again. The ramps provided as much height as 3-4 notches on the jack stands, and it would have been much easier to jack up the much lighter rear of the car (doh!).

*The exhaust does not come off without a fight if you've got more than a few miles on a MINI driven in snow/salt. It took me a couple of hours with a cutting wheel to cut the nuts (and then the washers, since they were holding the stud in place pretty well) off the cat side of the flange being careful not to damage it. Very tedious. Also, since this is a typical February in Pennsylvania, very cold!

*Since I was also installing a new cat-back system (Magnaflow, which is a bit too loud for my taste but I got a really good deal on a slightly used system and couldn't pass it up), I found that cutting the exhaust off with a reciprocating saw just ahead of the resonator helped get access to the upper bolt on the flange.

*The heat shield seems to do a really, really good job of keeping water and dirt away from the linkage. The area of the undercarriage covered by the shield was in pristine condition. So don't worry about losing the bottom cover of the shift box. It wasn't water tight to begin with. Besides, a little ingenuity with some sheet metal and a Dremel could create an extension to the bottom of the plastic box if desired.

*The Helix instructions say that it takes "patience" to get the ball joint of the linkage cable off the shiter. I say that was a huge understatment. Here's what I did after trying their method unsuccessfuly: Take a 1/2" open wrench and place it just above the ball joint. Put a piece of wood or metal behind where the wrench pivots on the edge of the plastic shifter box. Whack the heck out of the other end of the wrench with a hammer to pry it off. This will pop the linkage cable loose. I wish I had done this first rather than follow the method in the install instuctions, as that approach left small nicks in the bottom of the shift rod.

*The Helix Short Shift extension seems perfectly machined. Therefore, any imperfections in the existing shift rod (see the previous point) will impede its installation. I had to gently persuade (i.e., hit with a hammer) the Helix onto the shaft, as it was bottoming out on one of the little nicks made by the pliers that didn't work on the ball joint in the first place).

*Definitely use Locktight on the thread of the set screw. Without it I'd worry that normal vibrations would shake it loose.

I hope this helps anyone attempting this installation!

Dave

 

I have a ProMINI, no problems other than the shift **** that comes with it is a bit uncomfortable. I put a MOMO on though and I'm good to go.

 

Great info Dave. It looks good. You'll enjoy the new shifter... I also have the Helix SS and it's been on for about 30K miles and I have not had any problems with it.. as stated above... use the locktight.

 

MINITOR, how do you like the MOMO shift ****? Is is heavier than stock? I'm thinking of getting one with leather on the top half of the **** rather than a Whalen (cost and all metal design are the downsides to the Whalen in my view.)

Dave

 

I had already planned on going with the helix - but you just 100% sealed it with this:

"It reminds me of a Miata gearbox"



thanks for the tips!!!

 

If you really want it to feel like a Miata, i.e. tight and precise, then adding urethane lower-rear torque-mount bushings will probably give you what you are looking for.

A good part of the slop in the MINI shifter comes from the engine/tranny package rocking back and forth under acceleration and engine braking.

After installing torque-mount bushings from Mini-Madness, I was very surprised by how much better shifting felt, even though I had a Mini-Madness short-shifter installed earlier.

BTW, for the same price, the nearly identical Mini-Madness short shifter kit uses three set-screws instead of one to hold things together better, and comes with Loctite Red to keep them that way.

 

Funny you ask. I put a stock **** back on this morning. I picked up the MOMO **** because the stock ProMINI **** was not comfortable. I picked up one like this but blue:

Anyways, it is very high quality and an improvement in comfort, but still not incredibly comfortable, which I should have guessed from the odd shape. It is a bit heavier than stock, and also about an inch taller. Being taller it required less effort to shift but also a bit more movement.

So I picked up a blue stock **** for real cheap on NAM to see the difference, and now it is about an inch lower but requires a bit more effort to shift. I'm guess I'm not sure which I like better yet.

But if you decide to go the MOMO route check out LTBMotorsports.com. They are an authorized MOMO dealer and also sell the same stuff for cheaper on ebay. I'm sure if you got a more traditional shape you would be happy with it, like this aluminum one for $54:
or this for $73 with leather on top like you want

Sorry for the hijack, back to shortshifters.

 

Thanks for the information. I have already been checking out ltbmotorsports, and am leaning toward one of the "ball" style ***** (and since the weight/height of the **** affects the feel of the shifter, I don't think this is too far off topic!)

 

I have the Helix Short Shifter and a Whalen Shift Machine.
The combo is terrific IMHO
The throws are shorter and the feel is tighter... and the length of the shifter is not compromised.

Peace,
D

 

Any modification required to fit a MOMO **** on a MINI
-G

 

They come with little rubber adapters to make it all snug on the shaft, and then you tighten these tiny little set screws that become hidden under the base part. So no modifications needed. Funny that I am back to my stock **** now, and I have this odd shaped MOMO and nothing to do with it. I could sell it but I have the MOMO base sitting underneath the stock **** and I really like how it looks so I am keeping it there.

 

I wouldn't mind seeing the lower stock on inside of the cockpit. Do you have any pictures? I keep thinking about lowering my stock, but figure it's not worth the time in welding it or buying a new shift lever. I have the Helix SS adapter so that works well.

 

Thanks.
-G

 

No pics yet, I'll work on it. It is official though, I do prefer the low stock **** over the high MOMO ****. After going through 3 ***** I now know what my dream **** would be like. Definately ball-shaped, solid feeling metal body, low mounting (short), but definately with leather on top, not chrome or any sort of metal that gets hot/cold (oposite the stock with chrome on top and leather on bottom. Momo actually makes some, I just posted a small pic on the previous page of one, but it would have to be blue leather witch then makes it harder to find. I'll find it one day.

 

MINITOR, go to eBay TODAY. There is a used MOMO **** there that is almost exactly as you describe, except that it is black on the bottom (but has the blue leather on top). I considered it, but just went with the MOMO EVO from ltbmotorsports.

 

Here’s a short shifter project I’ll get around to installing eventually. It’s a Fidanza shifter with an extension/adaptor for the UUC ****. For my **** gripping style ball shifters are very uncomfortable; I have to have a flat top. The top of the **** will stand about an inch and three quarters higher than stock. I know that most short shifter shoppers want that stubby look and feel but I want leverage and a closer reach from the steering wheel. Some of the leverage will come from the hefty stainless steel perched up top; the **** and extension weighs one and a half pound alone. The shifter rod is an additional pound as well. The gentleman who made the extension did an extremely precise job on the fit. The tolerances between the **** and adaptor are so close it pops when the **** is pulled off.

 

Almost perfect, but I couldnt do the black. They are really cheap though, very tempting, thanks for the tip.

I think my blue/chrome MOMO Raptor may be back on ebay soon now that I know what I want.

 

Installed the custom Fidanza shifter combo and have a few comments now. Adding the extension reduced the overall short throw effect both as a function of distance and effort. However, the bend in the stick moved the shifting action closer inward negating hyperextension of my elbow going from 4th to 5th. Another change is solid behavior, no sloppier stock shifter wandering around.

 

Nice! Now you have me interested. My main complaint of the MCS gearbox is the 4-5 shift and I almost have to lean forwards to make it (I'm 6'4" so the seat is back pretty far). A bend in the shaft is just what I need.

Could you explain the setup a little more? I assume the Fidanza has a screw-on type connector and the adapter you had made converts it to the snap on type for the UUC (stock type) ****. Correct?